Jay95R33

Robo - I'm doing the same thing Hit's 12psi and settles on 11.8. Then from around 5,000 rpm to redline it drops to around 9.5 I thinking about getting a RB20 actuator cause they are 10psi, but I'd like to price up a custom 12psi one.. J

Nope, the sockie is a LSD (limited slip). So with the stockie it will let both wheels spin at different speeds, but it will just limit the amount of difference between them. Think of it like this. Stock diff is limited slip, while a 1/1.5/2 way is no slip, it'll lock the wheels to the same speed (if your accelerating enough). I think that reshimming the stock diff will just make it tighter, so the amount of slip that it lets happen is less ?? Can some confirm this ? J

What your looking for is a boost cut defencer (I think that's what their called). Say your AFM max's out at 5.1v, what this thing does is it clamps the voltage at say 5.0v so it never max's out. Under this voltage it runs as normal. But this is really a band-aid fix. When you start maxing out the AFM the stock ECU will always pull timing, and you won't be able to over ride this totally with the unichip as it doesn't always happen.... If it did it ALL the time, then you could tune the unichip to override it, but it doesn't By the sounds of it, you have just about reached the limit of the unichip/stock ECU combo.... I'm pretty sure Matt (whatisname) had the same problems. J

G'day Joel, With my limited knowledge, I would say yes provided you are accelerating. With my 2 way, there is a definate change between off and on throttle when going around a corner (as SydneyKid has discribed). Off throttle going into the corner it will understeer a little (but is very easy to control, and on a track you probably wouldn't be driving like that anyway), and once you start to feed the power back on you can feel the back really pushing hard and will induce a bit of oversteer (again, really easy to control). Sounds hard, but it's very predictable and consistant. So I'd say that a 1.5 way would tend to understeer less than the 2 way, so for the street and track a 1.5 way would be the best. Although a 2 way would still be better than the stocker. J P.S. - the FM901's are getting pretty low on tread of late, and I've been giving them a bit of a hand It's only now I know how predictiable these diff are

Ahhh, good stuff Stu. Good to see you found the problem J

Yepp, that looks right. The motor turns in a clockwise direction when your looking at the front of the motor. So looking at the picture you can see that the cam is trailing (retard) the cam gear/belt. It's hard to say, but the amount it is moved by looks about right for 4 degrees retarded. J

I think the reason why most people are posting the responces they are is cause at this very moment you can get an EBC Profec B II in the for sale section for not much more than your selling your bleed valves for. Anyway, good luck with the sale. J

What brand of cam gear is it?? My first thought would be 2-3 marks (notches) would be 4-6 degrees. I know the Greddy and the HKS ones are like this (the greddy one actually said it in the instructions). I think someone mentioned that 4 degrees was about 1.9mm movement. J

I wouldn't rust the factory gauge at all !! It's way too slow.... Get yourself an after market gauge, even if you just borrow one off a mate so you can tune the bleed. When putting in a bleed valve, take out all the factory piping for the stock stuff. Put in new pipes and the bleed then tune it. Yes the factory pipework has a restrictor in it to limit things. The brass restrictor is marked by a white/yellow stripe on one of the pipes. J

Hmmm, it really depends on what they have put in and welded in there... The original sump plug takes a 1/2 inch size. Soooo, if it's the same size as the original it'll be 13mm. J

I think that if the injectors are maxing out as soon as you take the cat out then it's almost a certain thing that the cat is to blame, or at least is a main contributor to the problem. Is there any way of taking the cat out and doing one run? Or maybe borrow someones high flow cat for a day ? They are mega easy to get in and out of the car.. Don't give up on the 2530 - it seems like a impressive little turbo with massive amounts of response J

Same here !!

Damn - can't find them. I must have deleted them If I remember right, the resistor that burnt out was on the side with all the other components, while the transistor was on the other side where it's mostly silver track and soldering. J

Gas filled ?? Hmmm, what improvement does this offer? Is it in the pressure relief valve ?

I've got a silver R33 GTS-t (1995) and the colour code is KL0. Have a check on your plate in the engine bay - that'll tell ya for sure. J

Sounds strangely like what I did when I blew my ECU http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...read.php?t=4320 Cooked a resistor and melted a transistor off of the board !! I stuffed up and shorted out the tacho output. Did your tacho work while it was running ? Try cutting the wire to the tacho output and see if it does the same thing. I 'might' still have some pictures at home of the inside of my blown ECU, if I can find them I'll post them up and you can see if it's the same resistor and transistor. J

I could have a buyer for the HICAS unit. We'll get back to you. J

Baaaahahahahahahaa... Merli, that is one of the funniest things I've seen... LOL

Hehehe, depends on how you drive The 901's I've got at the moment will probably due to ditch when they are around 18 months old. But 95% of the time I drive like a granny..... If you give them a hard time, then 6 months would be about right. J

Do'h - yep, 245 It's a hard call... Go for the more expensive tyre that won't last as long but will stick like $hit to a blanket, or go the cheaper option and not be able to get 100% of your power down but they will last longer... That's where I'm stuck.. It looks like I'll end up going with the Hankook's, I've heard good things about them, and they are within my price range. On your question about 235 v 255. You'd have to look at how much of a difference in price they are. Although 255 would look FAT J

If it helps any - Mine is a Sept 95 car (series 2 motor, in a series one car) and I am running a 1993 ECU in the car cause I blew up the stock 1995 ECU.. Soooo I'm pretty sure a series 1 ECU will run a series 2 motor. J

I've just been on the phone getting prices on 235/45/17's They range from $190 a tyre for the Hankooks to $336 for the Michelins Preceda's !! BIG difference.. But everyone I rang seem to think the Hankook was as good as the Preceda's.... OH, and the price jump from 235/45/17 to 345/40/17 was about an extra 40% !! Not worth the extra 10mm... J

Cool, I think 235/45/17's are much more common than the 245/40/17's so should be cheaper too... I'll make some phone calls and get some prices I think J

It still (and always will) comes down to the tuner. I've seen some shocking things come out of *** (which I won't go into here), so I don't think the argument of 'you get what you pay for' holds up in this case. As for the extra 30rwkw from using the software, well anyone can do that, you just change the settings on the dyno. Or it could be argued that having a more aggressive tune (to get the extra 30rwkw) will be cutting it too close to the edge (ie unsave). Best thing to do is do your reasearch, find someone that your happy with and price your happy to pay, and go with them. J

It also depends on the compound of the tyre. Being different brand (I presume) they will handle differently. Some tyres give you heaps of warning before they let go, some stick really well right to the end and then let go really fast. J