Jay95R33

Any chance of trying another PFC on the car?? It wouldn't be something as simple as the PFC has been re-set, and now it won't start cause the boost control option is turned on ??

It would be the dreaded flat spot the R33 GTS-t ECU's have. Not much you can do about it execpt ditch the stock ECU. J

As Benm was saying, it's too hard to 'guess' what power your going to get cause every dyno is different. The important thing is that you get a gain. I would take your old dyno print out along when you do the new run and then compare the two graphs (as long as it's done on the same dyno). Just as a comparison (for what it's worth), mine has pretty much the same mods as yours but at 12psi and did a 169rwkw. Again, it's all about getting a gain on the last run, and also, outright power isn't everything. I only gained about 10rwkw at maximum power, but I managed to get rid of the flat spot in the mid range. Getting rid of that gained me about 34rwkw in the mid range !!! J

Well done Mark, I bet your happy with the results Any chance of a dyno printout ? J

DAMN - sorry dude Drop me a PM with your details and I'll get some your way. J

SMB315 Japcab Revhead Ouch Nickmo Qwkr3325l Yamutha33 Happypuppy Mack Hksgtst Kris n Loz Smoothline Check your PM's guys J

Yeah, we're a pretty friendly mob

Cool, thanks. Glad that you like them. J

No worries

SydneyKid - I think you got me wrong. It's not that there's anything wrong with you, but I like females, not males... Oh hang on. Your not sending me the roses are you ?? LOL But seriously now - Leave it with me for a while and I'll see what I can do. No promises though. J

Oh dear, what have you started SydneyKid.. LOL You guys run a hard deal... Let me work a few things out (have to talk with the person who sews them up), and talk to the person that I'll get the design from.... I can't promise anything, but I'll see what I can do. But IF (and it's a big if) I do do it, it'll be a while until I get them down pat and ready to send out - I'm talking a few months here !!! *Jay walks off with his head down, totally bewilded "what am I gunna do now"* J

*UPDATE* I just reloaded the pictures of the leather boots back on the very first page of this thread. I didn't realise that with the upgrade of the forums that the pics were gone. J

Pic's not working I'd be keen to see some pic's, but also a rough price would be cool. J

Just a thought so don't flame me here Running crappy fuel and getting the motor to ping (like he did) is gunna make the ECU retard the crap out of the timing right ?? Then going straight to good fuel without resetting the ECU isn't going to do that much cause the ECU has already retarded the ignition..... I mean, is that how the ECU works? Once it's detected pinging, will it leave the timing retarded all the time until you reset it ? I say give the ECU a reset and see how it feels. Won't cost you anything except about 15 minutes of your time.... It's got me stuffed that it made NO difference, neither gained or lost power.... Or maybe a REALLY stretched or slack cam belt ?? Now I'm really stabbing in the dark.. J

Not sure if this will be an issue, but do you think the paint might help keep the heat inside where the coilpacks are? I think it should be OK as long as you don't use the heat reflective stuff maybe ?? The last thing you want is to trap the heat in the coilpacks cause it will eventually stuff them up J

Mr GTS4 - do a diag test on the ECU and see how you go. But my money is on a blocked cat converter. J

I just had a quick look under the hood. On the radiator hose mount there are two plugs (sensors), is it one of these? Or is it the plug that is righ next to the radiator hose housing that connects to a big (3 inches long) hexaginal nut thing that bolts into the head ? J

Which temp sensor ? Do you mean the one up top on the inlet side of the motor?? J

No worries Matt. BTW: Looks like they should be ready for post out mid next week (fingers crossed). J

Steve - was I right about the differences between the 2 and 1.5 ways?? And what's the go with a 1 way? How are they different to the 2 and 1.5's ? J

That's cool, By the looks of it, secondhand ones go for around $500. Not sure what the differeces are between brands, but maybe stick with a big brand (Cusco, Nismo, ATS etc..) if your unsure. Another thing is that your rear tyres will wear a little quicker than normal. This is due to the skipping, plus the fact that they are so fun to drift with The HICAS is totally seperate to the diff, so you will still need the HICAS lock bar if you want to disable it. J

And I think this is the difference between a 2 way and a 1.5 way. Eg. 1.5 way locks up faster in acceleration, and locks up slower in deacceleration. While a 2 way locks up the same either way. Or should I say - the difference between the 2 and 1.5 ways is that the 1.5 ways don't lock up as fast in deaccelerating.... Anyone know for sure?? J

They are only noisey when taking slow corners. So taking off from the lights and doing a 90 degree left turn you'll be able to hear it. And so will the people standing close to the car. But if you go around the corner with netrual throttle (not accelerating and no deccelerating) there's no noise as the diff only locks up when accelerating or deccelrating. Reverse parking can be a little noisey too, backing out of drive ways etc.. I also find that when the oil in the diff is cold (first thing in the morning) it's like a stock LSD. But once the oil is warm/hot it does it's thing J

Spotted - A VERY nice black R34 GTT in the Hyper D car park yesterday. Dark tint, body kit, great mags. Looked sweeet.... :aroused:

No worries Kris, I'll put you down for a set. I'll drop you a PM when they are ready to get posted out. Cheers J