Jay95R33

Hehehehe...... Shhhhhhhh..... :aroused:

The only thing that I can think of is that the different cam profile on the NEO engine negates the use of a adj cam gear to adjust the cam timing.... Although it's strange that it didn't have SOME sort of effect, either gained or lost power.. I'm still running the stock ECU on mine (series 1) and you can actually see the slight buldge in power where (I presume) the cam gear comes to effect... J

:headspin: I only make them in black....

Wow... But I suppose the gains come from running more timing. What was the adj cam gear set at? 3 or 4 degree retard ?? J

Me too !! There's one at Chisholm isn't there ?? J

Woot Woot - I'll be picking up a new hide of leather at lunctime, and I'll be starting work on it tonight

If anyone is interested in a CT26 to play with, I may be able to get a second hand one cheapish... Maybe around $300 or so... J

Any of you guys with 1.5 or 2 ways had a chance to run your car down the 1/4 mile? I'd like to know if they make a difference with the launches etc. J

Nope - have a close look at the tacho SLIP A-LSD

Cool - thanks Joel. I never thought of that !! So the RB20 turbo's have the same actuator (but diff spring rates)? Busky2k - I'm not a big fan of dodging up the actuator. Seen a few people play with them like bending it and putting extra springs on, but they are never the same. J

Hehehe, yepp 2 ways are soooooo predictable hay No savage fishtails etc... There's one loooong gradual hill near my place that is great in the wet. Doing 80 I can give it a bit in 3rd and the back steps out a little and just stays there while the speedo goes around to 130 Great fun.... J

Do you mean the active LSD option ??? The active LSD is pretty rare, I think there was only about 800 R33 GTS-t's made with active LSD. If you do get one with active LSD then that's a mega bonus. You'll have a little A-LSD light on the dash that will litle up if something is wrong with it, and other than that, the diff will have fins on the cover plate. J

Thanks - I'll drop you a PM. J

Also if your going hard into a corner and you come off the throttle (deccelerate) hard 2 ways will lock the rears together, which will cause a bit of understeer. I love my 2 way. :inlove: The only time it gives me the $hits is when someone get's in the car for the first time and asks what's wrong the the diff as it's skipping around the corners. Then after I tell them, they have this blank look on their face as though to say "what the hell is a 2 way diff ?" :headspin: J

After a set of stock R34 GTT (5 stud) wheels. Prefer the east coast due to frieght etc.. I've seen these go for around $900 with good rubber, so if I can find a set around this price I'd be interested. Cheers J

Yeah, that was in the Canberra Times (newspaper) a few years ago. Funny stuff... J

Dan, It's a straight 12v, although it may be modulated by ECU to hold a constant boost increase of just 2 psi. Best thing to do is hook it up to a switch and straight to 12v (positive and negative) and unplug it from the ECU totally. Then you can flick it on and see how it goes, just becareful and keep an eye on the boost. J

G'day John, Damn these R33 GTS't are so bad for engine whine I've got the same problem.... I reduced mine by running the RCA's as far away from any power source as I could. For me that meant running the RCA's up the middle of the car. Not sure if this is the best but...... I also put a power filter on the head uint which didn't do much, so it must be getting into the low level stuff feeding the amp. I also found that if you earth everthing really well it seems to help reduce the whine. Anyone else had much luck ?? J

I've got a 2 way in mine. I can't make a comparison cause the car came with it, although riding in another R33 GTS-t, I noticed that it tends to spin up the inside wheel pretty quickly with the stock LSD, while mine will power out of the corner with a little bit of oversteer sometimes. J

That's true, although I know that my speedo is only out by 2.5% (reading high). J

Yepp, that's it. Plus when you see the pressure plate you'll see the difference. With a push type, when you push the clutch peddal in, the thrust bearing 'pushes' on the pressure plate splines which disengages the clutch. With a pull type, as you said, the slave cylinder is facing the other way around, and when you push the clutch peddal in the thrust bearing 'pulls' the pressure plate out (the thrust bearing is actually clipped into the pressure plate splines) to disengage it. Here's some pics to show you the difference. J

Matt - At 80km/h mine sits about half a needle off of 3000rpm. So it's probably about 2950rpm or pretty damn close to it

I can confirm that a 94 R32 GTR is a pull type. And this pull type on a 94 R32 GTR is different to a R34 pull type. (the R34 GTR pull type is about 10mm higher). J

Yeah, I think your right there. I was thinking about upgrading the wastegate to a 13psi one (if they come in that rating), but I think you have to pull the turbo out to replace the actualtor A bit of a pain in the butt for a small improvement Do you think a EBC (without using a upgraded actuator) would help reduce the boost drop off ? J

Hmm, what type of turbo's do you have on the car? And which shop did the tune ? Compressor surge is usually due to large(ish) turbo's with miss matched turbine/compressor wheels. 2540's can have problems sometimes.. Depends on the set up. J