Jay95R33

Thanks Adrian

Woot Woot Good stuff.. Strange that it didn't run good at 3 and 4... Are you still using the base map on the PFC or has it been tuned (and it's getting retuned later)? J

Cool, that's no problems. Yeah, the four marks are for timing. The far left is TDC, then I'm pretty sure that the next one it 5 degrees before TDC, then the next is 10 degrees BTDC etc... Lucky it's day light savings, won't get dark until after 8pm.... J

Got some pics for ya. OK, the first thing you must do is get the crank at TDC. You'll have to manually rotate the crank until you see the timing marks on the crank and then line them up with the timing mark on the cam cover (see pic). The timing marks should be painted white on the crank, if you can't see them then look for 4 indents on the crank cause that will be them. You want to line up the far LEFT mark on the crank with the marker on the cam cover (which is circled in the pic on the righthand side). You can also see the timing marks on the crank in the pic (circled on the left side) but I couldn't get them to line up by just cranking the engine with the starter motor.. This pic looks a bit strange cause I have taken off the thermo fan. Only proceed when the crank is smack on TDC The next pic is just a pic of the front of the motor. The red circles in this pic shows approximatly where the marks (also should be white 'dashes') on the cam cover backing plate. You'll only see these marks with the front cover off so you can see the cam gears. The marks will be at about 10 o'clock on the inlet side, and 2 o'clock on the exhaust side. With the crank at TDC, and adjustable exhaust cam gear set at zero, you need to get the 'dot' on the inlet cam to line up with the 'dash' on the cam cover backing plate that's at 10 o'clock. Then get the 'dot' on the exhaust cam wheel to line up with the 'dash' at 2 o'clock on the cam cover backing plate. That will set everything back to stock. Once all together, rotate the crank a full 360 degrees manually a few times (check for clearences) and then recheck that the dots and dashes still line up. I hope that helps. J

G'day Mic, Naaa, not doing the 32 ones and it doesn't look like I'll be doing them anytime in the near future either. Sorry dude. J

It's a bit wierd really. I think it's something like on at idle, then turns off at around 1100rpm, then turns back on at 4500rpm. Maybe to give better emisions at idle?? I have no idea.... That flat spot is well known, and it's the stock ECU pulling timing for some reason. J

Damn, not good I'd be very careful when playing around with the belt.. The last thing you want is to let a valve touch the piston Did you do everything at TDC?? Re-align the dots on the cam wheels (one on each wheel) with the marks on the backing plate for the cam cover and make sure the crank is TDC with piston number one. It doesn't really matter where the belt sits on the cam gears, just as long as everthing (crank and both cam wheels) lines up when the belt is on. You really need to get your hands on a 27mm socket so you can rotate the crank to TDC and then see where the cam gears are compared to it.... J

Dude, I'm interested but you won't sell them without any pics. J

Good to see you got it on If it's not running the best at 4 degrees (2 marks), knock it back to 3 degrees and see how it goes. I set mine at 3 and I'm happy with the extra mid range pull. J

Hmm, did you clamp off the belt to the inlet cam wheel?? I was thinking before, you might be able to get the crank to move back a little by just grabbing the air con and power steering belts and yanking them backward. Not sure if it'll work, but it's worth a try. It might give you just enough movement to get it on. When you've been trying to get the wheel back on, how close is the dowl to the dowl hole on the cam wheel? Can you see where it's out? It's strange cause I had no problems with the tension of the belt, the only problem I had (with both cars) is that the dowl wasn't lining up with the dowl hole on the cam wheel - hence why I said a slight rotation of the crank let me get the cam wheel on. I can't think of anyway of levering it back on. But maybe if you slightly rotate the inlet cam wheel which will pull the belt tighter on the tensioner which in turn will give a little bit of slack on the exhaust side. Then when the exhaust cam is back on, just make sure the marks still line up and then the tensioner will move the belt back to where it was before (cause the belt is toothed). Give that a try and see how you go. J

Buster - no worries, your set will be in the post Monday morning (I've replied to your PM). J

JimX - if you can't rotate the crank, then rotate the cam a little - and I mean just a little. You'll need to rotate the cam counter clockwise. The other option is to set the cam gear to zero, put it on, then adjust it on the car. Not my prefered way of doing it, but I suppose that's the way they dyno tune them (eg. adjust them while their on the car.) J

I've still got 4 sets left over from the last batch if anyone is interested. Can post out ASAP. J

LOL - Prank hasn't got any trim ! Hmm, is it just me, or can that be taken two ways

Happy birthday Prank - hope you have a great day. Cheers Jayson

I confused the crap out of myself !! LOL I adjusted it correctly, then yesterday my brain got scrambled and I explained it wrong ! Thank god it's Friday.... J

Damn, your right. Sorry about that. To delay the cam (the cam is fixed to the center of the cam gear) the centre of the cam gear should be turned counter clockwise ! I was thinking of it the other way around My bad..... J

Yepp, positive. Pop outside and see which way the crank turns when the engine is running. J

JimX - the Unichip on the R33's is still a piggyback computer so the stock ECu does all the normal air con and all the other stuff. Sort of like a SAFC but it does timing as well. J

Yepp, that's it. For every one degree on the cam wheel it's 2 degree crank angle. So set the cam gear to 2 degrees (second notch) to get the 4 degrees that everyone is talking about. LOL - I had to think about this too !! Standing in front of the car (looking at the front of the motor) the motor and cams turn in a clockwise direction. So what we need to do is give the exhaust cam a 'delay' of the 4 degrees. So the centre on the cam wheel is to be rotated clockwise. Or the outer rim of the cam gear is to be rotated anti clockwise. Both are the same thing really I hope that helps. J

G'day, Do you have the stock R32 GTS-t ECU at all ?? Cheers Jayson

I heard that draining the transfer case does the same thing if that's what the 'private info' is !

If Nengun has them in stock it only takes 3 days to your door ! But if you need it faster then SST might be the way to go. J

LOL - make that 3 wanted then cause I'll put my hand up for one too

Yepp, that is correct regarding how the 4wd works. It's called ATTESA. Although on the R33 GTR's there is always a small amount of torque going to the front wheels - hence seeing them on a 4wd dyno. R32's are slightly different, still ATTESA but can be made rwd only by pulling a fuse. With the R33 GTR's they usually remove the front drive shaft to totally disable the torque to the front wheels. And to the last question, nope, there's isn't a factory switch in the cabin to disable/ switch to 4wd and rwd. There are after market controlers which can do that (eg. the HKS drag controller), or, so people with R32's wire up a switch/relay to cut the fuse to the ATTESA which put's it into rwd only mode, but again, it's not factory. Cheers J