Jay95R33

970 x 300 !! Holly crap that's big... There's no way that'll fit without a heap of cutting ! Grab a GTR cooler, clean it up and use that. J

Remember that heat rises, so the water down the bottom of the tank will always be cooler and will also be the 'oldest' water in the tank (if that makes sense !!). You've got a good point though. J

The exhaust is split into three pieces. Dump pipes come off the turbo's and are about 30cm long (pretty short). They connect to the Front pipes (like the ones in your pics) and go from the Dump pipes to the Cat. Then the rest of the exhaust is the cat back - like what you have at the moment. Adding just the front pipes will give you an increase in power, but if you want more power, go the Dump pipes and the Front pipes. J

G'day JimX, 1. I personally would adjust the cam gear before you put it on. Once you get the cam gear and see the difference between 3 and 4 degrees you'll see that it's really hard to get it spot on. I think 4 degrees would be moving the marker less that 2mm !! When I was adjusting is in my hand it took a bit of time do get it perfect. Remembering that for each 1 degree on the cam wheel is 2 degrees crank angle, so to get 3 degrees you actually adjust the cam gear to 1.5 degrees. You may need to rotate the crank back a little (see previous post) to get the cam gear to slot on if you've already adjusted it though. This is nothing, just leave the rachet on the crank while your changing it over, and when the time comes, just give it a slight move and the cam gear will slot straight on. 2. This was easier than I thought it would be cause the tensioner is between the inlet cam gear and the crank. So if you clamp off the timing belt to the inlet cam gear (like I said in the previous post) the timing belt will just sit there when you take the exhaust cam off. I was scared that it would just fall off the crank or do something weird, but all was ok and the belt just stayed there. The whole thing was much easier than I thought it would be. In the time that my mates left to go get pizza's and come back I had mine about 90% done !!! J

I just got a Greddy/Trust one from Nengun. These are the same ones that the WA guys have done 2 group buys on already. Worked out to be $188.50 to my front door. They seem to be built well, five screws securing it together etc.. I can't compare them to others as I'm never seen any others first hand. J

I think it really comes down to personal taste and your driving style. Some people like the way it feels once modded, others don't. The biggest difference I found (in my car) is that it seems to come on boost harder and a bit faster. When I had the car on a dyno, the operator was supprised to see my car having useable boost at 1800rpm !! And looking at the dyno printout, it goes from 46rwkw at 60km/h (4th gear) to 90rwkw at 78km/h. That's close to double the power in 18km/h - I better add in a comment that I'm not interested in the actual amount of power, but it's the power curve that is interesting, otherwise I know it's gunna start up that "can't trust dyno's" crap... And all I had was a 3 inch exhaust, FMIC, 12psi and the BOV mod. So as you can imagine, having more power lower in the rev range makes the 'power band' bigger. Well that's my theory anyway. One question I do have though, some people have mentioned that doing this mod takes away the linear feel of the throttle. Does that mean that everyone that has a after market BOV that plumbs back get's the same results?? I've never used one so I wouldn't know. J

Ahh, yepp, that would've been why it slipped straight on - cause it was set to zero. I adjusted mine while it was off the car, cause the difference between 3 and 4 degrees is about a bee's d1ck !! The only reason you rotate the motor to TDC is to get a reference point (you would've seen the dot on the cam gear, as well as the while line marked on the cam cover plate. You could do it without being on TDC, but it's good practice to use TDC as a reference point. J

I wouldn't worry Otto. You just got lucky and it slipped straight back on. If you did it wrong, your car would run really bad. Cheers J

Yepp, I'd probably do the same. If I was getting other work done I'd get them to do the lot. Even though I like working on cars, the thought of dropping the car off somewhere and then picking it up a few days later when it's all finished and ready to go is very appealing J

I might just add to this list a little 4a. You'll need to manually rotate the engine (27mm socket) to find TDC. You may need to remove the clutch fan to get to the crank nut. 5a. I used a clamp (big G clamp) to clamp the timing belt to the exhaust cam, this way you KNOW it's not going to slip - just me being paranoid 8a. Seems as the new exhaust cam wheel is now 3-4 degrees different compared to the crank, you may need to manually rotate the crank a bit backwards a slight bit (VERY slight bit) so the dowl on the cam will slot into the new cam gear wheel. 13a. The cam cover can be a real b1tch to get back on ! I did two cars last night, took about 3 hours to do both, that included stopping for pizza and plenty of talking in between, and waiting for the cars to cool down enough to work on. It really is a basic job. If you know how to use a spanner and willing to give it a try then go for it. Just remember to mark the timing belt on the 'dot' on the cam gears (you'll know what I mean when you see them). BTW: noticable increase in mid range torque. I wouldn't say it's massive, but there is an increase. J

I'm pretty sure factory spec oil for the R33 GTS-t's is 7.5/40w. It's too hard (and expensive) to find 7.5w oil unless you use the nissan stuff, so that's why most people go for 5 or 10w. I wouldn't use 15w, it's just too thick.... Stick with the 5/40w I say J

SOLD

I don't think I'll be able to make it for the cruise, but if I can get my butt out of bed early enough I'll come for the meet up. J

G'day Rob, Sent you one back. J

G'day Guys, I've recently bought another gauge and moved all 3 down under the stereo so I'm selling the A-pillar gauge holder AND the full factory A-pillar panel. So you don't have to drill/hack your factory A-pillar panel up, so you can take the gauges off later and put your original panel back on if yo need to. The holder holds two 52mm gauges - see pics (gauges NOT included), and the A-pillar came off of my R33 GTS-t. http://home.iprimus.com.au/jayson77/parts/apillar1.jpg http://home.iprimus.com.au/jayson77/parts/apillar2.jpg http://home.iprimus.com.au/jayson77/parts/apillar3.jpg http://home.iprimus.com.au/jayson77/parts/apillar4.jpg A secondhand factory A-pillar panel cost me $65. So I'm selling the gauge holder AND the factory A-pillar panel for $85. Happy to send interstage at buyers expense. Cheers J

Cool - thanks Robert. Jimbo - LOL, na, you will need to get a sewing neddle and some thread and sew the frame in. If your like me, I had to think back to my grade 5 days to remember how to sew !!! Another way of doing it is to use hot glue and a few pegs. Apparently it works wonders. J

Just as a side note, I think that list might be a little old. I know I've sent about 150-200 all up now... But your right.. More people should donate instead of taking this site for granted. Prank does a great job, spends a fair wack of time doing it, and get's paid nothing !! J

Nope, it won't turn on as soon as you put the air cond on. It's wierd how it works.....

Umm.... Not sure how much postage would be, but it wouldn't be more that 20 bucks I'd say. Cheaper if it didn't go down COD post... Umm... Not sure... Maybe $40 post postage for the lot??? Good to see the boots are still good I gave mine a quick hit with leather protector stuff and they came up even better !! J

Sfitzy - If you can't find one in Melb, I've got one here in Canberra. Got both front and dump pipe (and the heat sheild for the front pipe). Going cheap J

G'day Gary, Yepp, got your details, you should get the boots sometime soon as I sent almost all of them off on Monday. If you haven't got them, or any card saying they are ready for pick up by mid next week drop me a PM. Sometimes the Postie is too slack to leave a card or the card get's blown away by the wind etc. Cheers Jayson

If your talking about the fan right upfront (outside of the engine bay), then it's normal for it not to come on. That fan is wired up to only come on when the motor is over heating, or if the A/C needs it on (which isn't all the time). I've never seen mine come on, even on 40 degree days. From what I've read it's a safety fan which will come on only when your over heating. If you have over heated the motor and the fan didn't come on then it could be a faulty sensor. The sensor is mounted to the bottom of the radiator. Are you still running the stock clutch fan?? J

Woohooo - I'll drop you a PM Justin. J

Good to see your still kicking around Tom Looks like their planning another cruise in a few weeks/months, so we'll see what goes then. Good stuff about the wideband sensor, it'd be good to see how you go. Let me know if you need a hand (tuning while someone drives etc). Cheers J

Cool, That'd be great. Thanks J