Jay95R33

Driving short distances to and from work, I used to get ~400km to a tank. I'm working a bit further out for a few months and now see around ~500km per tank. If your getting bad eccon, you might have a dead O2 sensor. J

Grey Skys - that's right. If your a good driver you'll do better times with the traction control off. Apparently the best acceleration occurs with about 10% slip (we're talking dry road/good conditions). But more than this and the acceleration drops off very fast - it's hard to stay on/around this amount of slip. J

Cool - thanks for that. I'll have to take the air box and AFM out to get to it, so I might reserve a day next weekend to do it. I'll let you know if I get stuck. Cheers J

Dion, Nope sorry, no idea what it's called. I got mine fixed at NatRad (radiator and A/C repairer). J

Redline - best way to look for leaks is to pressurise the intercooler with air and dunk it in a bath tub. That way you'll see where the bubbles are coming from. I found this link pretty good, and gives you an idea on how to do it; http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html I had two leaks in my cooler when I got it. One of them was able to be TIG'd up, the other was in a really bad spot so they used some sort of glue on it. They said that the glue they used is the stuff they used on A/C cores, and can take massive pressures... Not sure it they were crapping me, but it's held up for about 12 months now with no problems. J J

Do you have an after market BOV that vents to the air? If you do, then that's your problem. J

Is that on the compressor itself? Or on one of the A/C gas pipes?

Just wondering if anyone knows where in the engine bay of a R33 GTS-t I can find the power wire for the air con? I need to tap the wire of the air con that has 12v only when the air conitioner is turned on. There is a relay in the fuse box under the bonnet makes A/C, but it has constant power as soon as the ignition is turned on, and I need it only when the A/C is turned on. I want to wire up the front fan so it turns on as soon as the A/C is turned on. Thanks J

Ben, I'm not 100% clued up on it, but from reading the instructions it looks like it has two valves. The first is a adjustable pressure valve so it will only pass air (that's funny ) when a certain amount of pressure has been reached. Then the second valve bleeds off air to hold the boost at a certain level. So..... The way I've got mine set up is that the first valve is set to 10psi, so the first valve won't open until it see's 10psi, then the second valve bleeds off enough air to hold 12psi. This way the wastegate (in theory) see's no pressure until 10psi - which leads to eariler spoolups J

You'll also find that a lot of the bleed valves these days have some sort of anti wastegate creep built into them. So by just installing one and leaving the boost stock, the boost will come in earlier and a bit harder. When I was on the dyno, the operator was supprised to see my car had usable boost as low as 1800rpm in 4th gear !! It's cause the bleed valve I'm using has an adjustable anti wastegate valve, as well as the normal bleed valve (it's a TurboXS HPBC). J

James' car is a total beast !! The speed is hard to comprehend sometimes If you come to Canberra again, I'll word James up to take you for a spin J

MIC33R - in my opinion you have hit the nail on the head. I am wondering how a simular spec'd turbo from another manufacter would go on Busters engine, as it doesn't seem right comparing one engine with no head work to another that has had head work and different cams done. J

Justin, Not good I hope your car is OK. I can help out with the clutch fan and radiator shroud if you can't get one closer to home. They are both off a series 1, but I'm sure they would be the same. J

Just a stab in the dark, but a mate had the same thing. He regapped his plugs from 0.8 to 0.74 and it worked a treat - miss fire totally gone.. It's hard to believe that 0.06 mm made that much of a difference, but in his case it made the world of difference !! Good luck. J

G'day James, How ya going? I can just see it now, you boarding the flight back with a suitcase full of PFC's And you saying to the custom's guys 'their all for personal use sir ! ' But seriously, would be interesting what sort of price you could get a Power FC Pro for (for a R33 GTS-t). Cheers J

Cotter sounds good, but how is it down there after the bush fires? I know that the pub, take away shop, and all the play equip was burnt to the ground Either that, or we could head into Weston Park (if the Cotter is no more ). J

G'day Fox. Hopefully SOON What do ya think Shell ? Time for another cruise and BBQ maybe? J

franks - now that sounds cool. It must be a combined traction control/launch control thing. Sounds interesting - I'll have a good look at that site tonight when I get home.. J

Ed, in most cases that is correct. I've heard that there are different types, but I'm not clued up on how the others work - maybe they are like anti lag etc.. Not sure. With the PFC Pro, it uses the speed signal (wire 53?) to determine if you are moving or not, once it sences that you are moving it reverts to the normal rev limiter (eg. 7500rpm). I think it's a handy little feature with the Pro, and worth the extra $150 bucks or so.

Cool - thanks Blind. Hay how do you rotate the motor to get no. 1 at TDC ? One thing that scares the crap out of me is once you've taken the factory cam gear off, how do you keep the tension on it so it doesn't slip off the bottom or change position? Or isn't the tension on it very tight? Cheers J

What's the deal with the 76 billion posts of the same thing?

Duncan, A mate has launch control on his GT4 with the E6K. Pretty sure it's just a rev limiter set at 4000rpm etc. But yeah, he can press the button, hold the acclerator flat to the floor, tacho swings to 4000rpm and sit's there while the boost rises to 7psi in about 2 seconds !! Launches in that thing are amazing !! He has now broken the diff, gearbox, and engine mounts !!

Hmmm, Would you sell the clutch booster seperate? And post is to Canberra ? J

I'm pretty sure a stock GTiR is in the high 12's/low 13's for a 1/4 mile. Can someone confirm this? If that is the case (stock v stock) then the R33 will be seeing the backend of the GTiR. J

Cool - thanks Doc. J