Jay95R33

Ahh cool - thanks Clinton. Looks like I'm leaning towards the exhaust temp gauge then. Cheers J

Clinton - how did you hook it up? Where do you tap the line into ?? J

Ahh cool - I just found the VDO catledog and they have mechanical oil pres. The reason why I'm leaning towards the mechanical is that the mech ones are about 300 degrees sweep, while the electrical ones are only about 140 degrees sweep And since the other 2 gauges I've got are 300 degrees sweep I'd like to match them up.. But you made a good point about the pressure line going into the cabin... Hmmm, more thinking to do Either that, or VDO make a exhaust temp gauge that is 300 degrees sweep too Not sure on price though. J

DAMN !! Where did you pick it up from for that price?

Yepp, I'll hold out and give it a chance before I drain it. Just really scary seening the oil pressure gauge so low Just a paranoid thing BTW - just off topic a tad With an after market oil pressure gauge, how do you hook it up? I'm talking about mechanical one's, not the electrical ones.. I've got VDO boost and oil temp gauges up on the A pillar at the moment which I'll be moving down to the DIN space under the stereo, which means I can squeeze 3 gauges in..... So I'm looking at a VDO oil pressure gauge... J

It seems as though the factory pressure gauge is working OK. It's still resonding at the normal speed. Only had one problem with the gauge and that was when I first got the car over 2 years ago. It ended up being crappy oil that they used. I changed the oil 1 week after getting the car and the gauge hasn't missed a beat since. It seems strange that it happend at the same time as the oil change (pressure drop - Helix). The temp when giving it a boot full was ~10 degrees hotter than the Mobil 1 in the same conditions. Like I said, I'll keep an eye on it and see how things pan out. I'd like to give it more of a chance before I make my judgement J

Just a quick update.... Been about a week with Shell Helix now, gave it a quick blat last night to see how it would handle the temps etc... Oil temp went up higher than it has ever gone with the Mobil 1, and now when at idle the oil pressure gauge sits just above the 0 mark !!! Cruising at 100 in 5th on flat ground when warm see's it sit under 2 on the factriy gauge now I don't know if this is mega bad, but Mobil 1 never did this. And I've always been under the impression that good (factory limits) oil pressure is critical for an engine ! These are just my findings in comparing the two oils. I'll be keeping an eye on it (temp and pressure) and if it doesn't stabilise within a week or 2 I'll be draining the oil and changing the filter and going for something else. J

There was a bloke in Sydney doing it for a while. But I've sent him a few emails/PM's and hasn't bothered to reply. I've heard that the biggest hurdle is working out the programming for it, as using the R32 ECU on the R33 uses a different K factor in the programming. Don't ask me what this means cause it's way over my head. But it's not as simple as loading the factory R33 maps into the R32 ECU. There's other things that need to be modified in the programming to make it work. Sadly it's not a straight forward process J

King-kw13 - the wire frame sits right down the bottom of the boot and clips into the centre console from underneath. You won't be able to see it from up top though. Best thing to do is take the centre console out and have a gander and see what the go is. J

It's correct that the R32 ECU doesn't have the VCT control, but this is easy to fix. You just need to use a PIC chip that switches a transistor at a certain RPM. This is what has been done before. J

Cool - I bought a second hand R32 ECU for that exact reason - to be modded to suit a R33 gts-t. I might have to see how he has progressed with it. J

(quick thread highjack) SydneyKid - in your opinoin, is it worth while installing an adjustable exhaust cam gear when your still using the stock R33 GTS-t ECU ? I think around -3 degrees is around the normal for the typical mods (boost/exhaust/FMIC). Does that sound right? (/highjack off)

R31Nismoid - Not sure on most of your questions. I dropped him an email a while ago and he said he could do the R33 GTS-t's. Nothing more was said and i didn't any further questions. Anyone know if Dr_drift/BMT are able to tune/modify the R32 GTS-t ECU's to run the RB25DET's (eg r32 ecu in a r33) ?? J

I just got mine today. They look great And the sizing was perfect. Well done P1E - good job. One thing that I thought of was the logo on the front left could be a bit smaller... Just a sugestion so don't shoot me.. But the T-Shirt is damn DAMN good. Might get myself another soon. J

Toshi can do the R33 chips. He is advertising in the for sales section, do the R32 ones. I've PM'd him and he confirmed that he can BUT as said before, they are a write once chip. So if you change your mods you need to get a new chip, not just reprogram it. Might be a good option if you are going to limit your mods. J

Ahhh, OK - I won't notice anything then cause I've just got the factory crap one

I personally wouldn't do it. That sound is the air rushing past the turbo blades in the opposite direction and then eventually coming out your air filter !! Mine was blocked off, and when I realised it was blocked I removed the metal plate... J

Yeah but the cops are $hit scared of Harley riders. :bahaha: :shake: That's why they never get booked :uh-huh:

LOL - it'd be good to bring it up in the other thread, see if anyone else has had the problem. It's interesting though. I've heard that the Rb26 sumps are prone to oil surge due to lack of baffles, so it's possilbe that the same goes for the RB25's... As long as you've got some pressure there it should be OK

Could be the oil rushing to the front of the sump and away from the pickup ? You might need a baffled sump if you go to the track a bit... It's interesting though, I'll keep an eye on my gauge and stomp on the brakes a few times and see if I get the same.. J

Lots of different opinoins.. This is good. I'll see how the Shell goes for the usual 5000km etc.. Might try something different next oil change. But keeping the cost of 5 litres of oil at around $50 would be good. J lol - just edited so Helix is spelt correctly

Thought this may interest a few people. I've been a long time user of Mobil 1 oil (5-50w). I did an oil change last weekend and as the only Mobil 1 they had was the new stuff that was $68.90 for 5 litres (old stuff was $45 for 5 litres) I decided to try the Shell Helix Ultra (5-50w) stuff at $44.50 for 5 litres. Both oils are full Synth etc... I found that since changing to the Shell Helix that my oil temp is a consistent 7-10 degrees hotter, and oil pressure is also down. With the Mobil 1 the oil pressure when hot and sitting on 100km/h in 5th on flat road, would sit on '4' on the factory oil pressure gauge. Now with Shell Helix in exactly same situation, the factory gauge sits on '2' !!! At idle (when hot) the Mobil 1 sat on '2' and now the Shell Helix sits on '1' !! Looking at the specs on these cars, they say that the normal oil pressure at ~3000rpm should be '4' on the factory gauge - which is pretty much what the Mobil 1 gave me... I'll see how the Shell goes in the next few weeks, but at the moment I wish I'd bought the new Mobil 1. What have you guys found to work ?? J

Yepp, it common for me to. If I'm at a set of lights turning right, I'll get Lancers and Pulsars come up in the straight ahead lane reving their engine and when the lights go green they'll do a burnout etc... Funny thing is they never do it when we're both going straight ahead !! But your right, they are just trying to intimidate you into racing them and making a fool of them. I just ignore them. J

Hicks - nice results. You got rid of the dreaded flat spot !! I bet it drives better now.