Jump to content
SAU Community

Jay95R33

Members
  • Posts

    2,890
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Jay95R33

  1. G'day Paul, How's things? The name of the diffs (1.5 way, 2 way) discribes the speed that the diff will lock up, and the amount they lock up both forwards and reverse. Reverse being when your de-accelerating (off throttle). The 1.5 ways are more suited for track work, and 2 ways are for drag and drift. Saying that, they both are better than the stock diffs for drag, drift and track work. I've got a site bookmarked at home that explains the differeces between the types - I think it's the ATS site. Got good info on it etc. Try and find someone with a 2 way around your area so you can tack it for a drive and see what it's like. I found that it's quicker in the corners as the factory diff will spin up the inside wheel very easily while turning, while the 2 way grips heaps better. If you can put up with additional tyre wear and the noise then go for it. You learn how to drive it on the streets to reduce the noise anyway. For a while there I was thinking of getting rid of mine, but the changed my mind J
  2. G'day C yar, Perth is easy. I send them out COD post, so you only have ot pay for them when you pick them up - much safer this way. Nation wide postage is only $11. So the total cost will be $65 for the boot set, and $12 postage, totaling $77. If your interested then I just need some sort of postal address (send me a PM with an address) and I can get a set out to you first thing Monday morning. Any questions just ask away Cheers J
  3. If they can't do it, then they can't do it. Is your car legal height??
  4. Thanks Pawley - your a legend J
  5. That's cool - do you know what the off set of them (front and back) is ?? Cheers J
  6. Pawley - do you know if the 18x9's would fit on the front of a R33 GTS-t ?? I think 8's will, but not sure about the 9's J
  7. Yepp, I'd expect boost to come in at around 4500rpm or higher on a Rb20... Rotaries flow massive amounts of exhaust gas - hence why the exhuast side of that mother is so big... J
  8. Damn - the exhuast side of that is massive !! Did it come off a rotary ?? Any idea or A/R etc? J
  9. Na, I wouldn't say it was hard, just fiddly if you haven't done any sewing !! I had to remember back to 3rd grade to revamp my sewing skills !! LOL Once you get the factory handbrake boot out you'll see how it goes and what you need to do. You'll be right, just plod through it and it'll be fine. J
  10. Ahh OK. I've got a mate in the industry. He's going to give me a ring back later today with a price. But I'm not sure if we could get it to you before the weekend. $260 is a very good price though.
  11. I tried using a friends telescope the other night to have a look at it, but couldn't get the damn thing focused correctly. Cheap crap I heard onthe TV that you should be able to see the polar caps on Mars just using 70x bionoculars !!! Hopefully we'll have at least one clear night this week so I can give that crappy telescope another try... J
  12. Cool - when do you need it by?
  13. Christian, Legit cause it's for a bussiness, or do you need to install SP1 with it?? J
  14. Clunk when turning could be a few things. Mine does it because of the 2 way diff. J
  15. Thanks dude. Yepp, just rip the old stuff out and put the new stuff in. I've posted up instructions earlier on in the thread (back a few pages) on how to do it. You really should get your hands on one of those plastic rings so it sits in the correct place. If you've got the main plastic ring and just missing the small elastic band one, then just use a elastic band. J
  16. LOL - funny stuff. I'll have to get your autograph J
  17. A mate here in Canberra is selling his MX5 cause he just bought a RX7 series 6 !! His MX5 is in amazing condition. It's got koni's etc and he has had it set up perfectly. It's handling is just mind blowing.. J
  18. I think someone was saying that you can fill it up via the speedo cable plug if you can't get the filler nut out. Just undo the speedo cable and pull it out, then do it that way. Not sure if you'd be able to fill it up from inside the car if you use the speedo cable way though... J
  19. Not sure to tell you the truth. I haven't ever tried it this way. I managed to get a 1/2 inch torque rench to the filler and drain plug. Gave me heaps of leaverage to get the nuts loose. I still almost spat my guts out my bum cause the nuts were so damn tight though !!! I 'think' you'd have to take the gearstick surround off, then the 4 bolts around the gearstick. Then that might open up the hole which may let you get a hose down there and put it in the filler hole. Then just use a funnel thingy to fill it up. Just don't spill the oil inside the car !! J
  20. Apparently you can go down from the gearstick hole (from inside the car). I haven't done it myself though cause I used a pump. J
  21. Ahh, cool. I've got a 1-2nd crunch when cold. Does the lightweight do the same as the ultra lightweight (anyone know?). Interested to see how you go. J
  22. siksII - did you use ultra lightweight, or just the lightweight stuff?? What does everyone recommend? Ultra lightweight, or the lightweight? J
  23. LOL - I paid $75 for 200ml of diff additive for my 2 way But it did the job and I'm happy... Anyway, I haven't tried Redline yet, but I'm using VMX80 at the moment. It was OK for the first 9 months (better than the goo that was in there), but I'm still not 100% happy with it. I'll give the redline stuff a go. The way I look at it is I spend about $60 every 5000km on motor oil and filter, so $100 every 2 years or so for the gearbox is fine. J
×
×
  • Create New...