Jay95R33

The limit you hear of may apply to the stock AFM. Changing it to a Z32 iteam will give you more resolution. J

jetgts - I'll be in Melb next month, and if not then, I've got mates down there anyway. What sort of $$$ are you after for the diff centre (not the whole axles etc). And is it from a manual? Cheers J

Lunatic - good link thanks Just one thing, if we do what they sugest and plug the inlet and pump air into the system, will the system hold preasure or will it leak out the valves? My brain is going to sleep and I just can't think straight ATM.... LOL J

Yes - 225's go well on the stock rims. Actually, 225/50/16's are listed on the factory tyre plackard as an option.

I'd lean towards the PFC still. Agreed that the e-manage is a good unit and has proven good results, but so has the PFC. And it really comes down to the tune. I just like the idea of a full ECU swap, instead of something that wires into the stock ECU and fiddles with the inputs to the stock ECU. And if you get the E-01 (for the display) your up for another $700 or what ever they are. Good luck with what ever you get, I'm sure either of them will give you good results over the stock crappy ECU. J

Hmmm, Had a look into this last night. The switch is wireless !! You plug a module into the back of your EBC, and then strap the botton to your wheel... NO WIRES BETWEEN THEM!!! The switch talks to the module via RF. So I've got a funny feeling that it won't be a matter of just shorting two wires to flick between boost levels - it'd be more likely that it's modulated or done via a data stream Hence the price too !! The unit looks nice, and would come in handy. That extra button could be used for NOS, a line locker, or even better launch control !!!!

Cool - yepp, I thought it may have been a 3.5mm one. I saw the hole in the back of the A while I was puting it in Oh, how's this - the A has in and out com ports too !! Don't think I'll EVER use them !!! Do you know if it's a 2, 3 or 4 terminal type? You know how the mono plugs are 2, the stero are 3, and now Nokia has a 4 terminal type they use on some phones..... J

Nope, that sounds about right. In my car, running a hose straight to the wastegate (bypassed the factory boost solinoid) saw a constant 6.5-7psi boost. This is with a full 3 inch exhaust and cooler.

Shannon, I think the best bang for buck would to get a bleed AND the S-AFC. A mate and I just got EBC's installed on the weekend, and are selling our TurboXS HPBC's (2 for sale). Drop me a PM if your interested. Cheers Jayson

Terminal - cool, welcome to the forums. Got any pics of your new car? J

INASNT - if you buy one, take a pic of the type of plug they use cause it'll also fit into my Profec A. If I can buy the plug - I think it's just a normal 2 or 3 pin 3.5mm plug - I'll make my own, as I just found out last night I can launch much better in low boost compared to high boost !!! So I'll hook up a mirco switch to first gear Cheers J

Pretty sure it's 4.11 Can anyone else confirm? J

Jetdude What sort of $$$ do you want for the stock diff. J

Yeah - it's a nice neat unit. I like the way they have made it look - I love big screens on small units Would love to see how it goes Denham. j

I'm pretty sure all the series 1 ECU's are interchangable cause I'm running a 93 ECU in my 95 car. And apparently I've got a Series 1.5 motor !!! It's lacking the ingition module on top of the cam cover - but I'm sure it's just somewhere else

It's possible that there are a few different firmwares for the 95 range of cars. You'd need to get hold of a 95 ECU that has been proven to give good power (good a/f ratios). Then you'd need to burn that to a eprom (for the R33 chip types they are about $90) and give it a try. J

Sweet - Last I looked, these wheren't even up on the Greddy site yet !! You must've got the first one in Aust Being a new model you might have to email Greddy in the USA directly.... Any idea what sort of features the spec 2 has over the spec 1?? J

OK guys, got an update on this. Apparently the oil that they use in these diffs is "LS90", not sure what brand it is, but I think it's shell. Then (as robertr said above) you pop down to your local Nissan dealer and ask for a tube of the diff additive that they use on the Nissan Patrols - retails for about $65-75.... That should fix it up. I'll give it a try in a week or two. OH - and big thumbs up to Mark at Hills MotorSports for helping with this. He seems like a great guy and really knows his stuff. J

OK, I'll give it a go. But without it here in front of me, probing it with a multimeter I'm stabbing in the dark a little, but we'll see how it goes. From you comments above, it looks like you've got the lights and the volt meter worked out. That just leaves the temp and boost gauges. You said before that if you hook up the 9v battery to the temp meter it just swings around to full deflection. So I would say that it'll need the oil temp sensor to work. The oil temp sensor will send a voltage to the meter which varies up and down depending on the temp of the oil, eg. oil temp goes up, sensor detects the increase and relays that increase as a voltage to the meter - the meter then displays the increase by moving the needle up. To do more work on the temp meter you really need the oil temp sensor (from a R32 GTR). For the boost gauge, it looks like it a 3 wire type. One of the wires is the ignition which looks like it's common on the board, that leaves two more (boost +ve, and boost -ve). The boost -ve one would be earth and the boost +ve would be the signal output from the map sensor. Without looking at a wiring diagram for a R32 GTR it's a bit hard, but I would say that the earth would be the earth from the map sensor, the other being the siganl output from the map sensor. Some meters (maybe like this one) need the sensor earth and not just the common earth from the body or straight negitive. I hope this helps, the best thing to do is buy yourself that oil temp sensor from a R32 GTR, and probe around the meters with a mulitmeter. And if you can get your hands on a wiring diagram for a R32 GTR it would make it much eaiser. Cheers Jayson

OMG - I bet he was happy !!! Now the next step is to identify the 'good' ECU's by their firmware version (the MEC no.). Then instead of buying a PFC, it'll be heaps cheaper to buy a 95 model ECU. Tom - damn shame about that. Hmmmm, I wonder what we can do about it, is it a case of try changing the values and see how it goes? It's a shame..... J

Thanks Tom, I knew that they were different cause I felt a change when I went from my 95 ECU (now blown up ) to a 93 ECU. BUT NO ONE BELIEVED ME !!! Thanks for posting up some hard evidence BTW: Do you have the factory maps for the R33 GTS-t in BIN form, or what ever form they need to be to load them up in a Eprom? I'll see if I can load the stock R33 maps into a Eprom and socket that R32 ECU I have..... I should've asked you when I saw you last weekend. Good work. Jayson

Ahhh, cool - I didn' realise that the R32 GTR gauges don't have the corner taken out. Good stuff Re: the oil temp sender - when you ask for it from Nissan you'll have to order the one that is from the R32 GTR - just to make sure you get the correct one, as I'm not sure if the R33 GTR ones are the same etc... You'll also need to check where the oil temp sender to tapped into to read the temp of the oil. It could be tapped into the sump, or even into the mount for the filter - I'm really not sure - hopefully someone on here can help with that one.. But the wires should be fine just to extend. I'm not totally clued up on electrical gauges, so if anyone can confirm this please do. I would say that to make a electrical gauge work you would need 2 or 3 wires. One for the earth, one for constant power, and one for the signal. Some may need just earth and a siganl wire (2 wire type).... As for the volt meter, you just need earth and the signal (that's why the voltage meter is working when you put the 9v battery upto it). The map sensor is the small black box that sits up in the top drivers side corner of the engine bay. It measures the presure/vacume that's in the manifold and converts that presure/vacume into a voltage and sends that voltage to the boost meter that's on your dash. The factory map sensor has 3 wires on it (earth, power, and signal), so if we're REALLY lucky the signal wire from the map sensor will be in the same range that the GTR boost gauge is and may work by just extending the wires (hoperfully the output of the map sensor will take the extra - even if very small - load). If you can take a pic of the gauge cluster and post if up it'd be great. How many terminals are on the back of the gauge cluster? If you can post up a pic and detail what you have already found out (what terminals are for the volt meter etc) we can try and work something out. J ***EDIT - just to throw a spanner in the works, the gauge cluster could use common earths and power for the three meters too !!! we really need to see the back off the meters, or know how many terminals are there ***

Scotty, The gauges are all electrical gauges, not mechanical (as you can tell ). And to get them working correctly (and reading correctly) you'll need to get hold of the factory sensors - most Nissan dealers can help you with that. The temp gauge is for oil temp if that helps any. With the boost gauge, you MIGHT be able to hook that upto your map sensor that the R33 GTS-t's has - but I'm not sure if the voltage range coming from the GTS-t map sensor will be the same that the RB26 would have. How many wires goes into the boost gauge?? 2?? 3?? Did you get the air con head unit to suit as well?? You know how the 3 gauge holder has a bit missing from the top right hand corner? J

I'd check/replace your gearbox oil too. Maybe even your diff oil. I know my gearbox oil wasn't changed when the compliance was done, even though it should've been And maybe take your AFM off and give it a clean too. There's a thread in the Maintance section about that. Cheers J

Damn it's gunna be cold tomorrow. We might even see some snow up Mt Ainslie !!!