Jay95R33

Ahhh cool, That's one thing I was going to post a thread about "which oil to use for a mechanical diff". Do you know which oils to use? Appart from the fact that I should change it cause the gearbox was never changed, so i should do the diff too. Plus I wouldn't mind loosening it up a little. J

Meg's - does your's clunk (inside wheel skip) around tight corners when you give it a bit of throttle? GaryD - Mechanicals only lock up when the throttle is pressed, so they are sort of open wheeler diffs until you give it some go. The reason why they are good for track work is cause instead of pulling hard out of corner from just before the apex and spinning the inside wheel (typical for even LSD diffs) they will power around with both wheels with a bit of oversteer. But the oversteer isn't massive and is very easily controlled. Infact most, if not all V8 supercars use either locked or mechanical lockers of some sort. I was up at Wakefield last friday watching the Brute Utes have a pratice, and as they were coming into the workshop area all of them were skipping the inside wheel while turning tight and slow.... J

Thrust bearings are about 25-30 bucks. But labour to get it in is about $250+ (mech price) cause you have to drop the gearbox out to get to it J

R31 - yepp, you've hit the nail on the head. From my limited experience (cause I drive like a granpa most the time!), when the back comes around it's very predictable. From what I've read, the mechanicals are great for drags and trackwork, and even better for drift. They can be a bit noisey for street driving. Some days it pi$$es me off, but other days I think 'damn I love this diff !!' Like last night overtaking someone doing 70 in a 80 zone... Raining... I drop it back to 3rd and give it 1/2 throttle. It starts spinning the wheels but it still holds a dead straight line.... Unless you flick the wheel a bit of course

Yepp, just a stock standard wheel nut. It's either a 17 or a 19mm one. I can take a pic tomorrow just to make sure if you want. J

Yepp, I sure do.... Do you have one that you want to off load? Cheers J

LOL - your pretty keen

Anyone at all??? I need one... They are 17mm. J

Ahhh, cool.. One thing that is a little disconcerning is the gruuuunchh sound when I ride the clutch a little.. Sort of scared to do it sometimes...... It's worse now compared to when I got the car - that was 2 years ago.. J

Flip - double check the joints, and tighten the living crap out of them. That should get rid of the leak J

Thanks for all the replies guys. It's all sorted out and the suspension is going in TODAY Cheers Jayson

OK, here's the deal. My car has got an after market clutch in it as well as a 2 way diff (if this matters?). The clutch doesn't slip at all. Spinning 1st gear is easy, and chirps into second - even with the 2 way diff and 901's And I've never smelt any clutch slipage.. Here's the problem: Sitting still, clutch out, and out of gear there is a slight whirling sound from the gearbox. Press the clutch a little and the sound goes away. If taking off from standstill going up hill, when I let the clutch out it makes a gruunch noise. Not like gears crunching, or metal on metal sound, but a gruunch noise..... This also sometimes happens when you take off from a standstill and you've got a fair bit of turn on the steering wheel (this causes a bit of load on the motor cause of the 2 way diff). Then today, when I took off and had a fair bit of turn on the wheel, I got a loud ticking noise from the clutch which stopped as soon as the clutch was all the way out - I've tried to get it to happen again, but haven't been able too.... Probably a good thing Sooooo, what do you guys reckon? Thrust bearing??? J (Sorry for the short novel above )

Ahhh cool, Thanks. J

This might be a stupid question, but what the hell Is there any particular reason for having clear hoses going to the catch can? Is it so you can see if there is a blockage, or is it just rice J

Naa, you won't need the S-AFC. The PCF does all the functions, and heaps more than the S-AFC. I dare say they hold onto them for the rice factor !!! But we all know that you love bit of rice J P.S. I'll give ya 50 bucks for it

WOW - big differeces with rego etc. In Canberra I pay $680 which covers everything - we don't have green slips etc... Or maybe we do but it's all included in the total rego cost !!! Oh, hang on.. NRMA do the compolsoary (sp) thrid party thing I think. Ronin - sell the car and buy a pushie - that's all I can think of !! J

Wow - is that right !! Sort of makes you think about it hay.... That's the problem. Do you get a 2535 for $2400 and sell your old turbo for $4-500, or go a highflow for $2400 exchange.. I still don't like the idea of running high boost. It's a shame the HKS's don't start doing much until your over 13psi I wish Matt (Whatsisname) knew the specs on his turbo.. 253rwkw on 13psi !!! OMG :eek: :eek:

Looks good - how much did it set you back Rob?

I just sold my old R33 ecu for $50... The tacho output was dead though Kep looking - they'll be one laying around somewhere....

You can't complain about that !!! Hay what sort of problems were you having? How did you know it was the thrust bearing? J

Hmmm, that could be that weird noie that my clutch makes if I ride it a bit too much It's a shame it's a big job to change them If things get bad I'll grab one from around here. Cheers J

Just for the record - the best launch I have ever done is when I had my parents in the back seat !! Poor Mum crapped herself !! But she loved it.. But in my case I've got hard suspension in the back, so really, to get good launches you need soft suspension just what SydneyKid said. Re: the unplugging the HICAS ECU - I've said it once before that you need to lock the rear wheels into position. Hence why TOMEI have shims with thier kits that are placed in the rods to LOCK the wheel position. J

Thanks for the replies everyone. I've worked it all out and ordered the new springs. After having a chat to NDR and to Jackie at whiteline (who sounds hot !!!) I figured out that the whiteline stage 1 springs drop the car to 345mm. The springs are 35mm lower springs. So that works out that the stock ride height is 380mm (we're talking about NEW stock springs here ). I only want to drop it 25mm, so I had to go the KMAC's cause whiteline only have 35mm+ Jayson

$22 bucks !! that's cool. Where did you get that from Justin? Nissan??? Mines a bit noisey sometimes. J