Jay95R33

Damo, I don't know the exact procedure to re-fill the radiator on a skyline, but this is what i do know. On most RB's (I 'think the RB30 is the exception) there is a bleed tape up near the inlet manifold. It has a waring on it saying "never open when hot", it looks like just a bolt in a seat - if that makes sence !! I'm pretty sure this is the bleed to get the air out of the water system. Try taking this bolt out and see if it'll bleed air out and keep an eye on the radiator fluid to se if it drops. With my old cars (thermo up top), you'd fill up the radiator and run the car up to temp to get the thermostat to open, and then top it up again. I can't remember if the thermostat on the RB25's is up the top or down the bottom If it's down the bottom it might be harder to fill the block up...... One thing though, I'd seek advise before running the motor for long periods with only 2.5 litres in it.... Good luck J

Wow - that's $300 bucks !! Na, if your handy with tools, get your mates around and you should be able to do it in an hour or two. Sounds like you don't have the C's spanners to adjust them? Try and get hold of a pair of them (try whiteline), I think they sell for about 20-30 bucks each maybe? All you do is lossen the rings and wind them down. Just amke sure you measure them all so you lower them all by the same amount. There's a way of doing it with screwdrivers, but I've never done it that way... J

Most tyre places would say put the new tyres on the front, as this will give you more grip and less chance of understeer not to mention what it would be like in the wet trying to steer around a roundabout (for the gumby drivers) Me, I'd put them on the back

So you leave the battery disconnected when you start pressing the drivers door switch?? Or do you re-connect the battery then turn the igition on and do the door switch thing J

Justin - pi$$ the clutch fan off and go the thermo. Did you get my email with the pics?? Cheers Jayson

Rev - I'm dying to see how you go - should be great. Depending on how technical you want to go you could put a mirco switch on the gearstick so the nos is only activated when out of first gear. And if you really want to go all out, you could use a comparitor and 555 curcuit so the nos only activates over ~3500rpm, or just modify a shift light Of course you'd have a normal on/off switch to stop the nos from going on at all. That would make it a little 'easier' to drive. Oh, and we want pics pics pics

Yepp, that's true. The only reason I knew the commodore I ran was a 300kw one is that they have a little badge on the back that says 300 I must say that they sound amazing though....

I've got 1, 2, and 3. 1 and 2 are good. 3 is crap The best is part 2 by a long way... J

Dude, SFC stands for Super Fine Coating - it's to do with the paint etc... The late series 1's and series 2's (I think) had SFHC - Super Hard Fine Coating.... Spoiler up/down button is for some skylines that had an automatic front spoiler. The button would make it go up and down if you've still got the factory spoiler on it. And I 'think' it may have auto mode where it comes down over 70-80km/h - can someone confirm this? J

SydneyKid - Mine got dropped of this morning. Looks sweet, and a total bargin for $35. Thanks Jayson

Phil, I've still got those front set of pads if your interested Drop me a PM and make me an offer if you want. Cheers J

One of the few runs I've ever had with another car was with a 300kw Commodore. Rolling start from about 40km/h in 2nd gear. All the way through 2nd gear and the start of 3rd we were dead even, but then the good old 3rd gear came into effect and I got about 1/4-1/2 a car length on him. We both stopped trying at 140km/h which is good cause that's the top of 3rd anyway I was suprised as was he. I haven't seen him around since then - I still remember the lic plates cause it was HSV-0##. At that stage I had full 3 inch exhuast, pod with CAI, 12psi... Not bad for a car that cost me $26k against a car that was $90k+ J

WazR32GTSt; This is the one I was talking about before; http://www.turboxs.com/High%20Performance%...0Controller.htm Cheers Jayson

Cheers Dude, Thanks J

Cell - this is common when the battery goes flat. From what I've read you'll have to take it to a Nissan dealer that has the Consult handset and software. All they will do it plug the consult into your car and reset one option !!! Don't worry, it's not stuffed, it just needs resetting. Although I'm not sure if the airbag will be functioning correctly while the light is flashing ! J

Ahhh, cool. Thanks Neil, I'll do a search. Jayson

I go the shock of my life today when I filled up. Optimax was 90.7 cents per litre, and desiel was selling for 90.9 cents per litre !!!! OMG !! But I bet the price of Optimax will go up by about 5-8 cents tomorrow cause it's public service pay day BTW: This was Shell down at Tuggers' J

I've seen a Profec B installed in the ashtry of a R33 GTS-t !!! They are that small - I love the stealth thing. Plus making them stealth means there's less chance of your car being broken into Anyway - a bit off topic - sorry

SydneyKid.. $35 post postage !!! OMG.. If these will go straight into a factory R33 GTS-t airbox I'll buy one. Drop me a PM or email with your account details and I'll deposit some cash into it and let you know my address. [email protected] Cheers Jayson

Woooohoooo, another oldie No worries Ozzy. I think I've seen you - it was a quick glance from a distance, but it was down Tugger's way... Which side of town do you work?? Jayson

A bit off topic but...... What effect to the compression would a adjustable cam wheel doova thingy do? Cause it would be changing the timing of when the exhaust valves open and close, would this change the compression (valves are open and closing at different times compared to where the piston is blah blah blah...) ??? J

Well done - thanks for this. I can see you've put a few hours into it What are your mods? Just so we know what the PFC was mapped to. Cheers J

WazR32gts-t - you can get bleed valves that have anti wastegate creep built in. Basicallt it's two adjustable valves. The first holds boost back until it hits a set level (adjustable level) - this is the anti wastegate creep adjustment. And the second valve is the bleed valve so you can set how much boost you want. So you can set it up so the wastegate see's nothing until you've got 10psi, then use the bleed to hold it at 12psi. Or if you like a bigger rush, you can set it to spike to 14psi and then settle on 12psi etc..... I'm pretty sure Turbo Smart make ones like this, and I bought one from TurboXS (the TurboXS HPBC) for $135. That's a cheapish way out, but if your looking for performance not cost, then go straight for a EBC. You can't beat the fully electronic control with feedback etc of a EBC. J

Shell - you used that 1/2 a tank of doing burnouts I bet Ken - thanks for that, so that's 376 front, and 363 rear. I'm aiming for about 355 front and rear. The other car that was measured up was 375 rear and 365 front, so I think the rear springs tend to sag a little over time, or are pretty soft so are easily dropped depending on the fuel etc.... Thanks Jayson

You can use download managers like Getright and Download Accelerator. They use 'always resume' which means you can stop the download one day, and recommence from the spot a few days (even weeks) later. Great for when the connection drops out all the time. I used download acelerator to download a heap of car vid's from the site above, on my dial up. Last month I downloaded 1.9 gig on my dial up !!!