Jay95R33

LOL. I had a quick run with a GTS 300kw sedan one night. I've got to say that it sounded really nice. Anyway, the old 3rd gear got him I pulled away in the mid/high 3rd gear. I didn't scream away from him, but it was pulling away. At that stage I only had a 3 inch exhaust, pod and 12psi boost. J

I made one up for my HKS pod filter a while ago. All the details can be found here http://hyperwa.com/sau/cai/ And the attached pic is what it looks like once all done. Post up here if you've got any questions J P.S. - have a read through the Word doc on the link above, it might answer your questions.

Yepp, understood :uh-huh:

Nobody can compare cars to bikes. It's like chalk and cheese. I've got a few mates that have bikes (damn nice ones too), and I can understand why they get them. Me, well I like the idea of turning the heater on when it's minus 10 outside. But yeah - they are two totally different things.

LOL - Yepp, that takes the cake

That's pretty much the same result I had. It sort of feels snappier (very technical term !!) around the 0 to on boost part. But the thing I like the most is it's quieter than before I don't get the sound of air recirculating as much now. The HKS filter does enough of that (which I'm thinking of swapping it for the standard box sooner or later)...... J

LOL Just to rub salt into the wound, when I was cruising the car yards for a R33 I found a R33 GTS-t with a V Spec sticker on the back. GTR badges are bad enough, but a V Spec sticker !!! Come on.... :bonk:

I might be able to help you out with the factory dump pipe, and maaaaayybeeeee the stock intercooler depending on how much your offereing J

Sounds like... BANG CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK CLUNK....... And then it sinks in, "Oh no, what was that ???" Not good Prank, but I'm glad to see you'll have it back soon. You'll have to take me for a quick spin in your new R next time I see you. Never been in one

The loudness of the noise is dependand on a few things. One is the amount of lockup the diff is doing at the time - which is dependant on the amount of turn you have on the wheel and also how much you've pressed the go peddal It's also dependant on what sort of tyres you've got. I've found the silicon compound tyres aren't as noisey once they have been run for a few hundred km. The sound isn't so much a clicking noise. The only way I can explain it is imagine it being the noise the you heard when you axle tramp, then reduce that noise to about 10%. Sort of a thud, thud, thud noise as the inside tyre tries to travel the same distance as the oustide, and then effectivly spins about 1/8th (or less) of a turn with every full revloution. I hope this makes sence... It's way to early for me to get technical J

If it's a mechanical diff (ie 1.5 or 2 way diff), the wheels won't skip on tight corners with the clutch in. But if the diff has been welded or is locked 100% of the time, then it will skip regardless of whether the clutch is in or out. I've got a mechanical in mine and the tyre wear isn't as bad as everyone makes it out to be. Only marginally more wear than normal. And you do learn how to drive the car with minium to zero wheel skipping around corners. The thing that frustrates me the most is when people get in the car and the first thing they say is 'My god, what's that noise?', and then I have to explain the whole story to them cause they have no idea what a 2 way diff is J

Na sorry dude, I don't have a pic. Have a quick search around for pics of R33 engine bays, you'll see what I mean. It sticks out like dogs balls

The wastegate hose connects to the pipe that comes out of the intercooler and goes into the inlet of the motor. The actual position of the tee off feed off of the pipe is where the pipe is cloest to the turbo, so the lenght of the pipe is about 4-5 inches long. They use this methoud on the R33's so it gives better boost stability over different conditions. So the R33's are less prone to drop boost on a hot day etc. This is cause it measures the preasure after the intercooler - well, this is the theory anyway !!! J

Here ya go - try this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=8544

Ummm, try on Meggala's site. Heaps of good stuff there. http://www.meggala.com/main.htm

No problems slayer - there's no rush. Sorry, I forgot to say that I've disconnected the factory solinoid and it's sitting right here next to me in the study I heard from a few places that if you unplug it it'll stuff around with the ECU, so I unplugged it and ran the diag's on the ECU and still got the 55 code (everything OK). I'd suggest that you try unplugging it and run the diag's just to make sure, and keep an eye on how the car runs. If it's disconnected now, re-connect it and see if that helps the feel of the car. J

Guys, I fixed my starter motor today cause it was doing what Cam_r33 was dicribing. Very easy to fix, and only took me an hour from go to finish. All you need to do is get the starter motor out and clean it (make sure you disconnct the battery first). I gave mine a good spray with WD40 into the starter itself, then take the two screws out of the solinoid and take it off of the starter and clean all in there and give it a light oil. Don't be scared when you take the solinoid off the starter, there is a bit of a load there but it's just the spring and nothing will come flying out when you take it off. The hardest part for me was getting my hand to the top bolt on the starter motor, but I'm sure someone with smaller hands will be fine. It seems to spin the motor up faster now and hence starts it faster. Much quieter now and doesn't have any problems with disengaging now. I'm happy to give anyone a hand if they need it - if your willing to come around my place that is J

slayer, The boost solinoid is just that. It doesn't have any feedback capability. I've had a look at the wiring in the ECU (on a circuit layout) and it's just a switched output. As rev said, you may have a leak. I basically got rid of all the factory rubber pipes to the wastgate and ran my own. There is one of the factory pipes that needs to be blocked and that's the one that feeds back into the intake. The one that goes down and under and disappears I found throttle/boost responce was better, but then again I've got an anti wastgate creep valve on mine which would help heaps. Cheers J

Depending on when you go I might be keen to do the same. I haven't had mine looked over since I had it (2 years ago !!), and I wouldn't mind getting the timing, boost etc tuned/looked at, and look for boost leaks. Damn - we could even make it a dyno day maybe SilverSlyder - I'll drop you a PM about the previous place you've been to. Cheers J

I've heard from a few sources that the XR6t has a boost limit of 7psi. Once it hit's 7psi the ECU starts to pull back timing and then starts the boost cut - just like some R33 gts-t's hit at 12psi. If this is true, it'd be a pain in the butt to go to a full ECU change on such a modern car for a few extra psi They are nice cars though. Boss at work has a blue one... Nice......

gts32t, I was just wondering when you are going to refund the money into my account that we agreed on? It has been 3 weeks now, and I have given you my account details twice. Not happy ! J

I've only done that once, and that's cause someone split the lane and then almost dropped his bike on my car cause it was that much of a tight fit. He got the $hits when I stayed next to him, but what does he expect?? It's illegal to spilt lanes in Canberra... J

And it looks like the "attache file" thingy has been disabled. I can't attach any files to posts

Alot of good stuff being discussed here :uh-huh: :uh-huh: Just on the compresor surge/stall. I'm pretty sure that compresor surge is caused by a massive miss-match of the turbo wheels, and at or very close to 0 boost the turbo will surge/jerk on and off boost (not much boost, but enough to feel). I'm sure it's due to having a large compressor wheel and a small exhaust wheel. I think Mario had this problem at one stage, and also someone on SDU with a GTR running a large single turbo reported the problem too. Compressor stall is when the compressed air is forced back through the turbo and slows the spinning of the wheel, and I suppose in some extreme cases my slow it right down (almost stall it). A question - I'm new to aftermarket adjustable plumback BOV's. They must be adjustable for a reason, so what is the adjustment dependant on? Do you adjust them depending on boost levels or how much air you want them to pass??? Cheers J

Starwars mod !! I'm keeeeeeeeeeeeennnnnnnnnnnnnn !!!