Jay95R33

Yeah thanks Doc. I swear this cooler was made for my car. The fit is just amazing. If we ever meet up I'll have to show you Make sure you check out my thread in the ACT section about Dodgy workshops though !!! I wasn't really happy about the piping that they did for it. LOL - yeah, the cooler was in for about a week or two before it was plumbed up. My mates called me 'The Rice Master' for having the cooler mounted but not plumbed up.... LMAO..... Now it's all good - It's not rice anymore..

What I found made a big difference was to make sure that the pod is sealed from sucking air from the engine bay. It wasn't so much as the radiant heat, but the hot air that kills performance. So I think the foam stuff would be fine if you make sure that it's sealed correctly. It's no use just putting a heat shield there with big gaps around it and hope that it works. I'm sure it would stop alot of radiant heat, but it'll still suck in heaps of hot air. And hot air is the killer Anyway, just my 2c J

I not sure if you've read my other thread about my intercooler being mounted last week or so. Well in the other thread I said that I thought I had a leak somewhere. Well today I pulled the pipes out that the workshop made up and low and behold I found TWO leaks where the welding didn't even join !!! It stood out like dogs balls that it would leak. I can't believe that they wouldn't have seen them... So I whipped over to a mates place and got them welded up. Now it's all sweet, the weird screaching noise is gone. Another thing they didn't do was I told them excatly how I wanted the pipework to run. I wanted the turbo outlet to run to the passengers side (due to flow reasons - the way the end tanks are made), and the motor inlet to come from the drivers side. Well you wouldn't believe that they even did that the opposite way around. I'm not happy and I will be ringing them tomorrow to let them know. If anyone wants to know which workshop it was, drop me a email or PM. NOT HAPPY JAN.... j

The boxes on the R33's are heavy, so yeah, use a trolly jack for sure. That way you can move it around easy while it's up in the air. Try and get the box level and alighed right, then put it in and wiggle the crap out of it. Sometimes it's easier to jack the front of the motor up so the back of it angles down too. It is a pain in the backside though. I've never had a box go straight in. You can get alignment tools that are supposed to make life really easy. The last clutch we did on a R32 GTS4t took about an hour to get the box back in !!! So take your time. Good luck J

300 !!!! holly craparoonie..... The one I've got is that 10mm heat proof foam that has a silver heat reflective layer on it. But I'm not sure if it'll fit a Blitz SUS filter. I sort of custom made it for my HKS filter. BTW: check out the new smilie :lol: what a dude.....

What type of POD filter are you running?? I've got a foam one made up for a HKS filter if that's what you've got. J

Nice.. If you don't mind me asking, how much did the clutch set you back? What sort of KW are they rated at, and can you run the factory flywheel with that clutch if the factory one is in good nick?? Thanks J

Anybody bought anything from these guys before? Prices seem not toooooo bad. He he he, HKS 2530 for $2100 drool.... J

I'm putting this question out here cause I really don't know the answer. Say if both motors were give the same sort of mods to make.....say 250~270kw at the fly wheel. Which one would be more reilable? The larger capacity RB25DET or the smaller SR20DET ??? I know it's a very general question, but any ideas?? A mate has a GT4 and it is/was very very fast. Fast to the point of not bothering about draging cars cause it was a waste of time. He used to drag off bikes etc !!!! But on the same hand, this same person has blown 2 motors already. So I'm thinking that most motors can be pushed to amazing output powers, but not many can be reliable at those powers. Now before anyone flames me, I know the SR20DET is a better motor than the 3SGTE. But I'm just using it as an example. J

What does KL0 look like you ask??? Have a look at the pic attached J

Mine is the same and it's a 95 model too. I think there was a change over in the 95's where they were different (slightly) to the 93 and 94's, and not excatly the same as the series 2's either. The 95's must have been the morph of the 94 to the 96's !!! J

KL0 = Silver I know cause it's stamped on mine :) Unless it's had a respay due to a masive stack !!!!! :burnout:

Arrrrrggggggg.... I turned my back quick enough for one photo, but I didn't know about the other photo !!!!! It was a good drive today. Thanks to everyone who turned up, and :shake: :shake: to those who didn't.. He he he, just joking. J

Yepp, it's a GTR copy of some sort. I think it's a V Spec copy actually - I think...... The car already had it on when I bought it which was a bonus. I think it really set's the car off. J

On mine it has 3 self tappers under the grill, and then a 10mm bolt either side (in the wheel arch). But I think all the strength comes from the half tube of sicaflex (spelling ??) that they used on the front of it. If anyone knows this stuff, then they can tell you that a tube of it can vertiually hold a cars weight !!!! Savage stuff. But I'm hating the dat when I have to take the front bar off to get respayed !! It'll take me a looooong time. J

I hate to say this, but I'm more interested in the pic that's in Zman's signature !!!! OMG :eek1: :eek1: :eek1: OH BTW: Very nice car too

Thanks Steve, LOL - I don't think I'll go as far as a new turbo, got heaps of stuff to do around the house now, so sadly the Skyline will have to take 2nd place. But I'm still on the look out for a new ECU, I'm going to go a R32 GTS-t ECU re-tuned (and a chip added for the VCT) for a R33. Good luck with the drag's tomorrow. I saw the tyres you've got :eek1: :eek1: Those things are sure to bring your 60' time down. I reackon you'll break the 13's with a good launch. J

OH, on another note. Yesterday when I got it plumbed up, I took my CAI partition out to make it easier for them. Drove it around for a while without it in, and my god what a difference !!! For those guys running a POD without a CAI partition your mad..... Make one up as soon as you can. The difference on a hot day is amazing, it was so sluggish off the lights it was increadible.. OK, I'll stop crapping on now. J

And another one

G'day guys, Well, it's finally in and it fits... JUST. Big thanks to PRANK and Doctor (Doctor for buying it the first time, Prank for buying it the second time and then selling it to me..) It measures 300x700x76 core size, and god know what it is with the end tanks, but it fills the front bar very nicly. Pipe work mets up with the factory ones in the lefthand inner gaurd. Driving it today with about 37 degrees temps, it felt like I was driving on a cold crisp night. One thing is though, I think I've got a leak in the pipework somewhere, on boost there is a slight high pitched squeeling that sounds the same as when a mate had a leak in his pipework - and no, it wasn't there before the cooler when it so it's not my tubo (already checked that out !!! ). Next is the ECU then onto the dyno to wind the boost up and see what she'll do J :uh-huh:

Yeah, that would suit me better Shell. I'm a bit low on free time ATM, so I wouldn't be able to do a big cruise and I might have to leave earlyish anyway. But 12pm sounds good. J P.S. R32_GTS4T won't be able to make it.

To all the guys/gals organising this.. :) :headbang: :headbang: :jump:

LOL - you guys crack me up everytime. It's a shame the little old lady didn't do a Yoda on them. You know in Episode 2 when yoda turns into a KungFoo master !!! Now THAT would have been funny to see. J

Yepp, make sure you read the label cause the first (cheap) one that I picked up said that it advised not to use it on plastic !!!! Then i had a look at the Nulon one and it actually said that it can be used on plastic and rubber to remove oil and slime so I got that one. Give the whole inside a good squirt, but be gentle when spraying the actual sensor in the middle. Sort of 1/4 press the nozzle and let is drizzle out onto it if you know what I mean. I'm not sure how robust the sensor is. J

I've got a HKS on mine, but saying that I'd go with a K&N or Apexi one if I bought another one.