Jay95R33

LOL - I know, it's shocking..... That's what I've got planned for tomorrow, wash the car and mow the lawn (exciting stuff hay !!!). BTW: your car looks great in that photo, the bodywork is really straight, and the reflection is amazing. That looks like up Red Hill or Mt Ainslie.... What time was that taken? Was it taken at some stupid hour of the day when you just got home after work :eek: :eek:

He he he, yepp.. It was really nice. And there I was, overtaking them while I haven't washed the car in about 4 weeks and it's turned a mud colour !! They probably thought "gezzz, he doesn't look after his Skyline..." :D

Just saw a very nice blue GTS-t going past Hume a while ago. GTR kit, looked like DTM mags. Anybody know who it was? I gave them a wave and he and his G/F gave me a quick smile. J

I wouldn't push it past about 13-14psi. The factory interheaters are pretty usless when you wind the boost up. Even with the highflowed turbo, your inlet temps woud be getting pretty high. J

Howdy, R33 GTS-t gear box holds about 3.8lt's (we're talking about manuals here aren't we??? ) Not sure about the diff but I used Castrol VMX80 in the gearbox - works sweeeeeeetttt. Either that or you could use the Redline stuff, some of the blokes on here use that and say it's really good stuff. J

I "think" those ones are adjustable. Have you tried adjusting it to tighten it up?? J

That's the one that I got. Their pretty good hay... They are great on cruises when you get stuck at lights etc. and great on long trips if you have another car with one. The repeaters here in Canberra are great. On one of them I can talk right to the Victorian boarder !!!! That's using this little handheld !!!!! J

I'd be keen to know how you go with this. By memory I think that kit is about $150-200 :eek:

Happy birthday Kyles. Hope you have a great day. J

I regulary get 400-450 per tank (55lt) with around town driving. A trip to Melbourne recently got me 550 to 55lt. Mine is still stock ECU, boost to 12psi, pod, CAI, full exhaust.

The only way to get rid of the sucking noise is to change your pod filter to a factory airbox set-up. The sucking noise is induction noise, due to the huge amount of air being drawn into the intake (plus the turbo is only about two feet away). Some pods do make more induction noise than others though. J

Thanks Guys, I'm getting a re-mapped ECU in the next week or two, so once that get's plugged in I'm hoping that everything will come back to normal. I think what I've done is shorted the tacho output of the ECU to ground for a split second, and I think this has popped one of the chips in the ECU. And I 'think' that chip also has an output to the ABS. If the new ECU doesn't fix the problem I'll have a good search through the car and see if I can find the problem, but I'd say it'll be a quick trip into Nissan. Jayson EDIT: when I get the re-mapped ECU I'll eventually get it run up on a dyno to check A/F ratios, fuel pressure, detenation etc. And I'll post up the before/after results. Should be interesting (fingers crossed).

Go the remap. With 256 load points it'll be as smooth as factory. With the money saved you can get other goodies

Hmmm, OK, here's the deal. We've been playing around with making a shift light kit. Simple freq to volt converter and a comparator. Had it all hooked up to the car and it wasn't working, so we decided to change a capacitor. Stupid me changed it while it was still hooked up. Now my tacho doesn't work and the ABS light just stays on (the ABS isn't working - I tested that !!). I MAY have shorted the tacho ECU output to ground or 12v+ for a split second. We hooked a signal generator up to the tacho on the dash and it swung around, so that's working. It looks like there's no signal coming out of the ECU for the tacho Has anyone else had this???? The strange thing is that the ABS light stays on now !!! I've checked all the fuses and they (dash, boot, bonnet) are fine. Did the diag's on the ECU and it came up with 55 - all is OK. Does anyone know where the ABS fuse is??? It's all in Jap. If it is just the ECU it's not too bad cause I'm getting a new ECU in a week or two, but the ABS thing has got me worried. Help me Obi Wan Kanobi - your my only hope......... J

NISMOGirl, Hmm, not good. Try the cheapest first. Drain the gearbox oil and put in some good stuff. VMX80 is pretty good, or if you want to go right out get the RedLine stuff. I think the VMX80 stuff will set you back about $30, while the RedLine is about $80-100. You'll need about 3.8lt. I had problems with second gear, and the VMX80 fixed it up If the clutch isn't disengaging (spelling) enough, it will cause crunches into gears, but usually all/most gears. I'd drain and replace the oil first, then if that don't work get the clutch looked at/replaced and see how you go after that. Good luck J

How are these high flow pump for noise?? I've seen one GTS-t with a 044 pump in it and you could hear the fuel pump buzzing away from a few meters :eek:

Wouldn't a factory computer remap be around the same sort of mark than the S-AFC etc..???? I suppose dyno time could be the killer there. J

Alex, I've sent you a PM. Jayson

Hmmmmm, can you arrange for a nice drift corner to be set up in Canberra's South???? :D :lol: :lol: :burnout:

Pedro, Ummmm, how about $100 and I'll pay COD postage for the ECU? J

Out with the pushbike during the week for me !!!!

Pedrowe. I've sent a PM your way. Thanks Jayson

Thanks heaps for that. I disabled the poxy proxy and it works good - slower but good. Thanks Jayson

You wouldn't happen to have a spare R32 ECU laying around you want to flog off?? J

I used to have cheapies on the back of mine. 10% of the time they were fun. 90% of the time they were just plain frustrating. One day I almost lost to a auto VN V6 because they tyres were that crap........ :confused: :eek: Got FM901's now. Much better. J