Jay95R33

Not sure if you have one close by, but Clarke Rubber have it too

LOL - yepp, the site should be up for a while yet.... If anyone isn't confident on making one I can cut one and post them off. But as the metal has cost me some $$$, I'll have to ask for some money for the metal, my time, and postage. But I'd say anyone would be able to make it using that template, the hardest part would be installing it. Just really fiddly more than anything. J

Yeah I haven't had any problems with dickheads (touch wood!!), most people just look and stare, but there are dickheads where ever you go. I was in at woden on Friday night for a short time. But I was parked up on the top level of the car park. J

G'day Shell, Yepp, Jamie and I will be there for sure.. Wooohoooo, one week to go OH - can you bring one of those silver stickers with you (I'm not game to say which site it's from ) J

Mine sucks air from around the headlight, but as well as that I've cut a 80-90mm hole in the inner guard (there's a few pics of it on the web site) just to make sure it get's enough air. Using the stock hole where the intercooler pipe was would be perfect. Just make sure it breaths OK and the hole is big enough. J

SIlver-Arrowz, I think your on to something there. Some oils tend to loose the plot when the temps get high. NDR, You've got a good point there. If the motor is crap to begin with, then the type of oil that you use isn't going to fix it, but it might stop it from getting worse. I was lucky when I got mine. I found the service history book under the seat, it had all the factory services done before the KM's were up, car chassis and motor numbers are the same too (thank god...). J

If it's any help at all, the look excatly the same as the ones that are on the new Pathfinders, so you should still be able to get them through Nissan. Looks like Nissan put the same part on a few cars. BTW: make sure you run the climate control diags in direct sun light, otherwise it will return as error code saying that the sun sensor is stuffed. Good luck J

Hmmm, tempting... I'm pretty much booked up on Saturday and Saturday night, but could make it on Sunday maybe.. Do'h, just remembered that I might have a mate down from Sydney on Sunday....... Hmmm, I'll get back to you J

G'day all, I've got a spare Jaycar Kit turbo timer for sale. It has basic operation, cool down period at 90seconds but can be changed. Great for hiding away so won't get knocked off. The kit is all made up and tested and ready to go. It can be incorperated into your car alarm (with an extra relay) so you can arm the alarm and walk away while the car is cooling down. I'll include the instructions so you can wire it up, or get a auto electrician to wire it up. The kit (unmade) sells for $30, so you can have this one that is already made up and tested for $30 firm (buyer pays postage). Great for a budget turbo timer that works great. Can be contacted via PM. J

Sold to Akira. Thanks J

Do'h, I have to update the profile. I'm in Canberra. J

HI guys, Doing a bit of a clean out and found this. It's heat resistant foam that has a silver, heat reflective outer. It's been cut to suit a R33 HTS-t that's got a HKS Pod Filter. It more than likely won't suit any other type of filter due to the size of the hole for the filter. It comes with a lid as well so it can only suck air though the front of the car. It's simular to the ones that UAS sells for $90 but mine has a lid A picture of how it fits is here: http://www.users.bigpond.com/jayson77/534.JPG But please note that the picture is of a metal one, but this foam one was made from the same template so will fit the same way. Asking $40 firm which includes postage.... Bargin........ Can be reached via PM. J

Mechanicals are wierd in their operation. You've really got to see a pic of one to understand. Basically when you apply power (and there is a power difference between the wheels and the motor) the force will push out some rods or spindles things that lock the wheels together. That puk puk puk puk noise that you hear when going around slow tight corners under power is the inside wheel skipping/spining accross the road. Remember that the inside wheel will be wanting to spin as fast as the outside wheel but has a shorter distance to travel cause your urning a corner, so the wheel will actaully spin a bit. Mechanical are good fro drift work, great for track work, and amazing for drags. Basically the most traction you'll get from a 2wd car is a straight line. Some LSD will swap the power from one wheel to the next which will cause fishtailing - not a good thing. with a mechanical there is always a 50/50 split, even when you start spining the wheels. God I hope that makes sense ???? J

Thanks

Sounds good. I'll do my best to be there, along with R32 GTS4T. S13drifter, you should be right after your op, it really isn't as bad as everyone says it is. I had 4 taken out when I was 19, 2 days later I was out partying again I hope it all goes well for you. J

The front section goes like this; Dump pipe - this comes straight off the turbo and is about 25cm long. Front pipe - this connects to the dump pipe and goes to your cat. Cat - does all the greenie stuff and makes your car legal. The key to the front pipe is the size and flow, remembering that when the gasses come out of your turbo they are very hot and have expanded a fair bit, so the bigger and free'er flowing the better. Some dump pipes have the seperate pipe for the wastegate which should help top end power when the wastegate opens. I haven't seen back to back dyno runs to compare though. If you do go with the front pipe go for both front and dump pipe. I put a front and dump pipe on mine a few weeks ago and the seat of the pants difference is noticable. It seems to spool up faster and has more mid to top end power. Ahhhh, love the mods.... J

Thanks man. It took ages to do, to get it just right. Most of the time was spent on the template. But it was all worth while in the end. J

Well, miracles do happen, and in this case I finally got off my back side and made up a template for my cold air box. All the pics, templates and instructions can be found here: http://hyperwa.com/sau/cai/ Any comments all welcome as I'm sure there are a few things I've left out that a few people might pick up on. And if anyone has any input into the instructions please let me know and I'll add or modify them. Thanks Jayson :burnout: :burnout:

There's a few around, but they come out on weekends mostly. I saw that Silver R32 4 door yesterday that your talking about Shell. Looks nice. And I saw a white R33 GTS-t today. 88 - give us a yell next time your down, we'll see if we can get the gang together.

Thanks for the info guys. Akira, interesting about the compliance plate - I didn't know about that. Mine says RC41. The reason why I was asking these questions is cause I have a mechanical Cusco diff in mine, and I was thinking about buying a stock diff and putting that in, then selling the Cusco one. But after chatting to a few people they have convinced me to stick with the Cusco. It might be a bit noisey on tight slow corners, but apparently the performace and strenth is huge compared to the stock one. Sooooo, I'm sticking with the Cusco. Thanks for all the info guys. J

Meggala, Funny you should say that.... I've got a mechanical Cusco??? in mine and I'm thinking about swapping it for a normal one.....But if they are as good as I hear they are I might hang onto it . It's hard for me to compare the difference betweena normal LSD R33 and a mechanical (performance wise) cause my R33 is the only one I've driven Are they THAT much better than the stock ones? Thanks J

G'day Matt, Thanks guys. Good to hear. J

I cut mine on the inner guard. The vertical bit right in front of the air filter. It leads into the inner guard and only gets fresh air. The only problem with this is that the air isn't forced into it, it has to suck through it (if that makes sense??) J

Does anyone know what ratio the standard diff's are in the R33 GTS-t's? And does anyone know if they changed them at all from the 1993's to the 1995's (within the series 1 range?). Splines the same etc.... for a swap over? Thanks J

Usually it's as simple as opening them up and doing a bit of tuning and spreading some little coils apart a little They almost always detune them a little, and then put a fair bit of filtering on them so they don't interfere with other radios. Ahhh, the old days of modifiying CB radios The UHF's are a little harder, and sometimes not much can be gotten out of them, but if you go from 500mW to 700mW it's a fair increase. J