30detkiwi

iv herd this question alot or similar at lest.now have you replaced the crank collar?iv seen nothing but horror scenes from mates using the n1 pumps and collars.my recomendation is that you get a collar spun up from a lath and run external pump. i run a gtr pump with a custom collar ($140) nz ready to go and i pointed my mate wif there 26z to the custom collar az they were al running n1.last season they went through 3 collars b4 fiting the new 1,and this season havent poped 1 yet (touch wood). but the best bet is tidy up those bits in you engine bay that dont need to be there or re locate them and go external,mite azwell take the next steep seeing as you are pumping a few rwhp

hay there the caster= radius bush can be pressed out on a small 20t press using a 36mm socket as a guide when pushing rubber out,as if you don't the rubber tends to split more and rip the center out. they are available in nz for $72.00 each (nolathane).when you take into consideration how much you mite spend on putting factory parts or small rubber upgrades in.you should go & get after market adjustable caster arms with the rose joints you'll never have an issue again unless you buy crap Japanese 1z.do it once a well with quality parts

im pretty sure you can just rip the material off,then start fom scratch if you going custom,as they are glued and bonded pretty well

yea your startn ta enter the next level, the knock sensor sub loom is traceable from the firewall end of the plenum. look in between 5 & 6 injectors and you'll see a square grey plug. follow that under the plenum it will go to 2 plugs,1 between cylinders 123 & the other 456 has 1 to, they are a squeeze plug & flamin mongrely ass to get off sumtimes

take the negative lead off hold foot on break 4 20sec,then reconnect,this resets the ecu back to it last mapping. also check the knock sensors to make sure the plugs are on and wires haven't de tatched. try fully advancing the cas (cam angel sensor clockwise) seems to make some unknown problems go away

were have you got the gauge hooked up to??? is it spliced into the ecu side of the loom or hard run it from the sensor on the front of the plenum, also when was the last thermostate done could be due. i had a temp gauge running from loom on ecu witch is pin 28,my temp was av 38-44deg and hottest i seen was 87deg. hope that helps

minta dont mind hacking away.its all being rewired to run under a custom plenum.plus the whole cars wiring has gone,only things in the car are there to make it run or do a certain job.cheers heaps for input. also cant mud the r31z thats what my bottom end is from...

love the big turbs but you need the engine capacity to produce the power its designed for. i made the mistake of buying a master pro ar70(to4e).i put it in my rb20det and thort it would haull ass....... but no...didnt get boost till round 4200-4500rpm.and was all over untill i got to 3rd.thats were it started to make power. id recomend a t3t4 simple top mount upgrade.good for 320-383.1 was the best iv seen and that was on the 1st of aug. anyway hope this puts some ideas on the table

awesome....so this is my plan. i have found the common power to the injectors (solid grey)25det series2 loom i cut the wire and bridge it between 1 side of each resister. next is to run the 6 wires from the resisters to each injecter???? now wat do i do with the remaing common power?????

go to trademe.co.nz they have good quality top mount manifolds with external plumed on.just have to shave the bottom 3,4,5,6 manifold ports 20mm top clear top block. i bough sum last year and not let me down.cost me $699 but now they $320 buy now

hi there people iv just been searching through the forums looking for knowledge on resisters. i purchased sum yellow tip gtr injecters and also got these 7.5% resisters. now iv sust how to wire them into my loom thanks to ROY but now i cant figure out what way the power runs thru????? $ ------------------------ $ [ WH50 ] $ A [[[[[[[[ ]]]]]]]]]] B $ [ 4AR7.5% ] $ ------------------------ this is what i have above,they are a solid gold colour. im thinking that the positive runs thru A and conect wire b to injecter. i can take tem to shop and pay to find out but weres the fun in that. any help would be good or if sum1 can refer me to a site THANKS ps this site rules.hits help me diy my whole build also it wont show my drawing properly hop you can make it out

ok thanks is there a way to hard wire vvt to a 20det ecu?its geting dynod on friday and has piggy back in it(no afm) also on my own project 30e 25vvt head,im runing gen1 25de ecu chiped for plus t and was told i kan hard wire vvt off the oxysensor if i put a 5volt relay or sumthing b4 it gets to ecu??????? chers guys

im doing to transplants atmo.got 30e bloc with 25de vvt head.runing 32 loom and gen1 25de chiped ecu.what sort of injecters did u use.im thinking of using sr20det 1z

hay there people, im trying to find out if i will hav trouble wiring up a rb25det using a r32 20det loom and ecu.i know about the side and top feeddz. will i have to wire in a ballest resister??????? also do each injector hav positiv and negative pins on them or??? also how can i tell if my ecu is 20det or 25de.iv look at alot of dif ecu and the numbers on the front cover but im hereing alot of dif storys please help

if you are having to do that im thinking you must have a vacume leak ither under the plenium or maybe off the throttle body.what set up are you running????

hay every 1 im anRB addict from chch nz,im currentley in the process of building an 30det hybrid engine,im wanting to no the torque specs for bolting head down,im not sure if im going to go with a 3 piece metal gasket or a gen gtr gasket???also iv bourt sum 1.5mm oil restricters but havent worked out how to get old 1nz out.any 1 got sum ideas ta chuck at me thnks:cheers: