epigram

Hey mate, got a motor if you still interested.

Give Toshi's remapped ECU's a go. He removed all the rich and retard and other fun police stuff, told him exactly what I had and he sent me up a re-chipped and mapped ECU to try for $350 deposit. He set it very safe and not to full potential of course and it sorted all my running issues. I gave him some feed back on how it ran and sent him another $110 and he sent me what he calls a street chip which is just on the safe side and would not cause any issues when the weather gets hot, I changed it myself and straight to 257HP! Changed a couple of things as described and 265.4HP. Bloke knows his stuff. Told me not to worry about Z32AFM for my settings and rest would be fine with max boost 12.5psi. If I want more HP he can remap the chip or give me another to run with C16 or whatever. It's not a PFC but saved me a few thousand to get my 200RWKW and for a daily driver that's enough in my books! You know the best thing about these autos is how easy they are in traffic (I used to drive a 13BPP), and then to be able to put the foot down and have it break sideways and fishtail up the road! Got to love it!! You can get in touch with Toshi on here. Just search members for Toshi. Kubota San Tensai-teki !!

Hey, just found this thread looking for fuel pump flow rates and have spent the last 3 hours reading it all. Glad to know there's alot more similar minded people on here. While definately nowhere near the pointy end of the power figures, thought I'd throw my specs and recent dyno runs up for comparison. cheers Series 1 2 door R33 AUTOMAGIC 80k std RB25DET std turbo std injectors std manifolds (in & ex) Monsta FMIC Bosch 040 fuel pump Toshi Kubota modified and remapped std ECU Tomei adjustable FPR set to 45psi@idle std coils NGK BKR5EYA special anti fouling plugs gapped to 0.8mm (no misfires!) adjustable boost bleed valve set to max 12psi std auto std dif 265.4 RWHP or 197.98 RWKW on 98 octane pump fuel. See dyno sheet attachted. Going by other car figures and times on here, with a good launch should go down the 1/4 in mid 13's? 1st run was 254 and with bit more fuel pressure, boost and ignition timing we got 265.4HP. And it runs sweet with the 1st map Toshi gave me. As Justin from Black Track said it was perfectly tuned. I just wanted to check AFR's, boost levels and see the numbers. No problem lighting the tyres now on kick back and the auto is great for everyday driving. Now I've sorted the car and achieved what I sent out to the car is for sale. PM me if interested. Skyline_Dyno_Run_31_7_09_HP_v_PSI.pdf

Are the turbo components interchanable between VG30, RB20 and 25. i.e. can you put the VG30 compressor wheel and housing onto RB20 core and with RB20 exhaust bits(or vice-versa) and bolt that to an R33 to get a heap of boost with minimal lag? I read Sydney kid put a RB20 exhaust parts on his Steaga to get the bottom end torque for towing he was after.

Tried that. Haven't got the 10 posts to PM yet. Could somebody please send him a PM for me. Have got incontact with Toshi now. Thanks

hey guys, put the std AFM back on tand ook for a test blast. It definately has a slight surging at the top end as it winds out. Will sit on about 8-9psi and then step to 10-11psi. So I hooked up the multimeter and checked AFM signal volts. 1.1-1.2volts at idle when hot. I then took it for a run with the multi meter in the cabin via a length of speaker cable and watched the multi at full load. It sort of levels out for a bit at 4.8v, then goes all way out to max of 5.1v with the late surge but doesn't hold it very long. I've bypassed the factory boost level stepper and fitted a new fuel filter, fresh panel filter(even tried it without) but still there. That's why I tried the Z32AFM. Weird thing is runs better right up top and when it kicks down a gear at full throttle, only with Z32. I also popped the cover off the std AFM and checked the soldered connectors, all good. So I refitted Z32 AFM to see what it's volt readings are. 1.1volts at idle and maxes at 4.1volts at full load. I wasn't game to hold it very long with Z32 but. Does that std AFM seem faulty to anyone with the info I have given here? It felt like that surge might be a sticky FPR so I got the Tomei. No difference. Thoughts on a fuel supply problem? My experiences of fuel starvation are top end surging and the new filter did help more than FPR. Hopefully all this may help other people out there. Thanks for any feedback. BTW......Anyone know where I can get in touch with Toshi. Want to see about a remap seeing as I've got this Z32 and Bosch 040 now. Might as well step it up a notch!

Still have AFM? What is the part number on yours and how much? cheers

Why not a 13Bt or even 20Bt. 13B is a bit shorter than LS1 (not sure on weights) so would have better weight ditribution, not to mention a heap more room to move. Only thing you have to watch here is the rotary's exhaust outlet down low on RHS can foul the steering rod-box-lines, although this can be overcome. You wont match the LS1 torque curve for driveability though !

What people got to remember is that octane rating is a measure of resistance to detonation or pre ignition, not the stored potential of untapped HP. The higher the octane , the slower the burn. Duel fuel cars are always slugs on gas cause there set up to run on petrol also which requires generally around 10 degrees before top dead center ignition timing at idle where as LPG needs around 20 degrees BTDC. You retard a petrol engine 10 degrees and tell me how it feels. Now bump that compression up around 13:1(for atmo), get your fuel delivery right and set your ignition to suit with a good strong spark and I garantee you will have some kick in the pants. Dedicated is the only way to go with LPG vapourised systems. I'm not sure how far the factory ECU's will advance the ignition with factory maps and running piggy back injection systems but if you can get an aftermarket ECU with duel settings of timing and injection to suit each fuel at the flick of a switch, that's where you'll get the best out of both. The biggest problem I found with turbo LPG is definately finding someone who really knows their stuff or even wants to. I ran around in a turbo Hiace for a few years and had a ball. Good luck to all those having a go with this. Alternative fuel research is something we all have to grab by the balls if we don't want to go back to horse and cart some time soon.

Ah yeah. AFR=adjust fuel reg not air/fuel ratio. Sorry for the confusion. AFR, AFM PS3, TMFA=toomany friggin acronyms, TD=these days and thanks for the advise on air/fuel gauge. will be bumping that up the shopping list now. o2 sensor is something I also wanted to check with multimeter when I find some numbers. cheers

Thanks for the quick reply GT. I did actually read another post from you caining someone else about the stock ecu and z32afm combo the day after I put it on but as it was now on I thought I'd check the AFM voltages and read up a bit more. (genuine Z32AFM little use, now up for sale BTW). I should be looking for 1.1v to about 5.1 volts out of the stocko AFM yeah? and at what load/revs/TP should I be looking for how many volts? I know it should range but a acouple of ball park figures would be sweet. I'll put the stock AFM back on and do some tests this w/end. If that's all good I'll try the new 040 and see if the top end picks up to the level the Z32 had. Is the stock fuel system good for my mods and 10psi or does it need the 040? I'm actually just up the Hunter abit BTW

Couple of problems here I've been trying to sort out. 1st was when I was running my S1R33 all std bar a 3inch mandrel bend exh, Monster FMIC and 10psi. Once I changed plugs to B6esomethingantifoul, set at 0.8, insulated the std coils and made sure they were clean, changed fuel filter and cleaned out idle valve and got rid of the misfire, I noticed it didn't quite run properly at wide open throttle. Accelerate at 1/2, 3/4, 8 tenths and it went well. Full throttle just felt a little off, sometimes. Had a run with a factory supercharged VS Calais and although he got the jump till boost wound up, it was dead even from there. So I did some more reading and put on a Z32 AFM and Tomei AFR. Now WOT is shartloads better but it feels lean to me through the middle and has got nothing really. You can play with the throttle and watch the boost go up to 9-10 but not much happens. Put the full boot in, it kicks back (yeah auto slushboX) and goes. Plus the exhaust tip has cleaned up in the couple of drives I've had since fitting new AFM. I set fuel pressure in the end to 300Kpa @ idle no vac which was about were the AFR came new. Now I know the simple answer to this is Power FC or similar, or even piggy back SAFC, but at this stage I'm still married and don't have a spare $2000 that wont be missed at present (or for a bit). I've just ordered a genuine 040 and I've changed injectors with some other standards that had been cleaned and tested not long before, supposedly. They did help with some of the prior running problems. Question is, if I shell out on a SAFC and tune, will this setup work? (Std ECU, Hi flow airfilter in std airbox, Z32AFM, std injectors, Tomei AFR @ 300Kpa idling no vac, bigger FMIC, Bosch 040, 10psi boost) or is there a problem with the Z32AFM I bought. I did some voltage checks and it showed 1.1 @ idle up to 3.something when I gave it a rev in the shed. Was going to hook up some jumper wires into the cabin and see what figures I get on the black top dyno but with it running lean I really don't want to be risking things. Any help appreciated. cheers

Hi all,time to join the converted and introduce myself. My name is Chris and I'm currently playing with Series 1 R33..............auto. yeah yeah I know, f'can auto sh....boxes are for women and grandpa's (i'm 37, nearly there) but I came on this sitting in a guys shed wasting away and swapped it for a Hilux which I fixed up after I swapped that with a 90' model Hiace (1st of the last model shape with 2.4 2RZ) that had a hi-flowed RB25DET turbo running dedicated LPG on a blow through the mixer system! Was a shit load of fun and great to play with V8's and other performance cars(to a realistic point of course) and to stay with them for a bit or overtake family cars going up hill at 140km/p/h, the look on the drivers faces was priceless! Been a bit of lull on the fast car thing with racing motoX then saving for a house but before that there were a couple of atmo RX2's (stocko 13B, bridgeport 12A's and a 13BPP) still have series 5 RX7 13B turbo motor and box sitting in the shed waiting for something to light a fire under my arse(been tink'n lately 180 or 200SX convert), number of 1st gen civics(did my apprenticeship at Honda car and motorcyle dealership) and old 6cyl holdens from back in my early days. Been out of the industry for a bit in mining but my main speciality is motox bikes. Anyhoo, yeah the slush box 33, (is it to late to change login?) been playing with that for a bit getting it sorted and since I found this place have read a heap of good articles as a guest and fixed the dredded missfire and worked out why my window wouldn't go back up( will have to write A DIY cause mine was different to everything I read) and have now started wanting more!!!!!$$$$$ Got some issues with leaning out in the top end when standard (bar 3in, FMIC, 10psi) so I went Z32AFM and AFR but now WOT is heaps better and runs sweet no ping'n but it's dead in the middle and hates the cold. I know the PFC and dyno will sort it but I still got a wife! Enuf of the BS, hope you guys can help with the lean out in that forum. cheers (1st time I used a pacman)

Haven't seen anything about the fuel but i'm bit didsexit sometimes. Do you have and how much?

Any of you GTR owners want to sell your standard pump if your upgrading?