bradmax

Having worked for an oil major for 15 years [but no more] I can tell you that in any particular state you mostly get the fuel from the refinery located in that state or imported fuel.... so: Perth: almost exclusively BP fuel in every service station refined at their Kwinana refinery except Gull who import from Asia Adelaide: Mobil fuel from Mobil refinery Altona in Victoria or Shell fuel from Shell Geelong Melbourne: as per above PLUS fuel imported from Asia Sydney: Shell fuel from Clyde and Caltex fuel from PLUS fuel imported from Asia Brisbane: Caltex and BP fuel from their respective refineries PLUS fuel imported from Asia Darwin: Everything is from Asia Australia's refineries are piss ant by world standards and 1 refinery alone in Singapore (Shell Bukom for example) is bigger than all the refineries in Australia. As demand for motor spirit now pretty much exceeds local supply nearly every capital city market is supplied with some imported motor spirit. Sooooo, forget the alleged differences, the marketing hype and the performance improvements you believe you see from one type to another. Most often they are all the same product and as for octane, octane costs money and every refiner cuts the octane so that it just meets standard, to do anything else is just quality give up.

Or Sydney?

And the winner is "blind elk"..... 21mm it is!! $26 for a 21mm deep reach socket plus a bar adaptor [bit with a hole in it so you can insert a peice of bar to turn the socket] from Repco!!

Thx Terry once upon a life I was a tradesman [desk jockey these days] so pretty okay with the socket issues, was just trying to avoid buying one and go out to the carpark, try it out, doesn't fit, go back exchange it blah blah blah yadda yadda yadda. Seems that's what I am up for so Repco here I come..... I even have a set of vernier calipers...... Glad you liked the avatar lol.... Thx

Stupid noob question but as I don't have a tyre lever that fits, I was gunna buy one just in case I get a flat. The one I was supplied doesn't fit and I tried all the sockets in my socket set and they don't fit although that may be just because they are not deep enough to accomodate the length of the nut before the hex starts.... So what size are the wheel nuts on a R33?? Thx

had my 4 door GTST done on Saturday - $250 for 15% - looks good. Greg also trimmed in a fleabay windscreen sun strip for free. Yes I'm happy

A search on Ebay will find you a decal for the fuse box some enterprising person is already selling them, as for me I just printed the one out from PSIparts, buggar paying for it!!

+1 pics

I am running a stock exhaust on my R33 GTST 4 door sedan. Wanting to upgrade to a 3" turbo back but not sure if the coupe/sedan systems are different? Logically you would think the chassis would be longer on the sedan and as such the pipes would need to be longer as well, but then again....... Any assistance gratefully accepted.

I am pretty sure he is referring to the type of components inside your cat. Cat's are measured in CPSI which means cells per square inch, the lower the number the higher the flow (I think anyways), so first you want to make sure you get a high flow cat to get the exhaust gases out as quick as possible. Now the internals of the cat or substrate can be made from ceramic or metal with the metal ones more resistant to thermal and physical shock and can withstand extreme temperatures. Having said that plenty of high flow cats have ceramic substrates - have a look at justjap.com - ceramic high flow for $179 whereas metal substrates are closer to $400. Sooooo, get a highflow cat, for a standard turbo running 11psi don't think you really need a metal substrate cat, save the money and use it to get yourself a 3inch dump/front pipe. Now having said all this, I am running a stock exhuast on my R33 GTST and the above is what I've learnt as I research a 3" turbo back setup for my own car. I still don't know whether an integrate dump/front pipe is better than separate components or if a bellmouth is better and lastly if a dual pipe front pipe is better than the single set up. Hope some of the above helps.

I had a problem with my black widow alarm, doors wouldn't un/lock remotely but would do so if I stuck the key into the door barrel. I took it to Ryda in Sydney who fixed it - they found a dodgey connection between the central locking mechanism on the driver door and the alarm module. It's all good now. Hope this helps

Hey mate I own a R33 GTST 4 door with no body kit, probably coz their's not too many suppliers around. I have been searching and following a thread elsewhere on this site I found www.carmate.com.au who offer 4 door kits. I'm still saving myself so can't comment on their quality etc. But you do know that W.A. stands for Wait Awhile right? coz you gotta wait a while to get anything (from Booragoon originally myself). Good luck and let me know if you get anything from them and what it's like Cheers

Still for sale?

Hey Can you do mats for a 4 door R33 GTST? Maybe the same as for the coupe but not sure. Thx

Hey Does your HKS gear come with the wiring harnesses? Thx

Hey thx guys - lots of good ideas - cheers

Looking for an ashtray, still got it?

Hey Just bought a GFB dual stage BC and it needs [obviously] a rocket switch installed. Just wondering where everyone else is putting their switches I've looked around the web and can't find a din panel available in Aus with switch mounting holes, plenty with 3 gauges but no allowance for switches. A couple are avaiable in the states. Bit reluctant to drill holes in the dash etc so wondering what others have done. I thought about putting a plate where the ashtray goes but couldn't find something reasonably ready made to do the job and didn't want to bodgey something up. Ideas? Thx

I've got a R33 GTST running a stock turbo. I was wondering if there is any value in buying an electronic boost controller or a two stage controller and just follow the sticky elsewhere on this site and just ground out the neutral and run it on high [stock] boost all the time. Whata ya reckon?

Search "Hid headlight" on Google images and you'll find that the 6k are the brightest of them all, the others will give you a different look (colour) but if it's brightness you are after, stick with the 6K. There's also a thread here about polishing your headlights to get rid of the yellow

Check this thread for some pics http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hi....html&st=80

There's a sticky or tutorial on this - I've got a R33 GTST 4 door and it's pretty easy - take out the bottom on the back seat, then take out the back section of the back seat then pull out the parcel shelf and voula - now i've paraphrased the tutorial which will tell you about the bolts and clips etc. It's not hard and took me about 20 minutes to get to and replace the rear speakers in my ride. My 6.5" dropped straight in Seek and you shall find.....

I have installed everything (new head unit, sub, amps, rear speakers, cables etc) except my new speakers in the two front doors. Followed the other threads and can drop the trims np but when it comes to running the after market cables from the cabin to the doors........... well it is well pretty f#$%ing difficult. No hand space, can't get the rachet onto the bolt blah blah blah. Has anyone come across this before and can provide any guidance? Thinking of giving up and going to Ryda (NSW) as it seems so damn hard - wasted heaps on time today on this. Cheers in advance...

I'll give you $70 for it?

Do you still have the clock and the GTR instrument cluster?