smithy85

I had the same thoughts, usually stainless and as much coin as the other brands... hmm.

Wouldn't even bother with dump pipes unless you are pulling the turbos out, a quick look under there will tell the story. The std turbos will run out of puff before the dumps. Just stick with big front pipes and big hi flow cat until the turbos are swapped out, then change the dumps.

Yeah if you stick with the big Jap name brands then you should be right with fitment. Just avoid the Ebay-arrific 150 dollar jobs.

Also try the Trust/Greddy MX front pipes, they are listed at $608 on the GCG website (might even get them cheaper if you speak to Mark out there) and they are the same sIze as Apexi. I use them and they made a big difference to midrange even with the old standard turbos, so definitely go the bigger pipes. If you are chasing 300+ then they need to be swapped out otherwise you will have a rather large exhaust restriction.

GTR badges have been known to go walkabouts also, usually end up on some losers toolbox or bookshelf. That said I have seen one on a Honda CR-V!

Black R34 GT-T parked at maccas on canning hwy Melville today. White R32 GTR with gold rims heading east on canning hwy yesterday.

Yeah Sard 700's are straight drop in, not sure they are available new anymore though so second hand might be the go.

Sweet, I will give them a buzz Thanks for that

I'm after one of the roof rack mount covers that has seemed to have gone missing after the trip form Sydney to Perth. It is the drivers side rearmost cover if that makes a difference. If anyone has a spare one floating around then please let me know. Cheers

Yeah knock is kind of a big thing to want to know about, my PFC hand controller has the knock level showing all the time. Especially if a PFC is being used then a knock reading is a crucial tool for the driver to prevent engine damage.

Setting 1 is not meant to blow much air thats why its setting 1, if its not pumping out much air on the fifth setting then maybe you should be worried. A simple AC regas with colder air coming out of the vents will (or should!) make it feel better to the point where you really wont want it on the max setting for any long periods.

Will be there, good to go any weekend

^^^ Yeah Mark's the man at GCG, but on those front pipes - they are listing them at $610 online now, a far cry from from last years listing at $400, strange!

theres half a dozen or so in bayside blue on carsales at the moment

PM sent

Double post.

Been in Perth now with my car for a week and haven't even contemplated taking it for a drive during the day without a/c, going to bite the bullet and spend up big to get it all going properly...

Found! Cheers

I'm hoping it will be around the 300/400 mark to get the diff centre pulled apart and overhauled. Should just need to be re shimmed with new bearings and seals etc. which will hopefully tighten it back up.

Same problem here in an R32 GTR - clunks from the rear when driving harshly, so I put it over the pit and it has a ridiculous amount of play which we isolated to the rear diff. Next, is to remove the centre and get it rebuilt at a shop. On that does anyone know a good place to go for a diff centre rebuild in Perth?

We have just landed in Perth with our M35 Stagea, located in Bicton just around the corner from a silver ARX M35 - would interested to see if it is someone on here! Merry Xmas and a happy new year and all that

Ya need a driveable GTR first though lol!!!

Will again be requiring a full set of 265/35/18 now that the old ones are stuffed, so won't be able do any swaps. Oh and I am in Perth now.

** Update** New location: Perth, WA ** x1 BMC pod air filter $30 x1 3.5" centre muffler taken from a Veilside JASMA exhaust $80 Std front pipes, with shrouds, good condition $100 Std exhaust manifolds $100 Std catalytic converter, good condition $100 x1 Std Air flow meter, good working order $100 Full set of Std suspension, good condition $250 Std R32 GTR turbos (pair) good condition minimal shaft play $300 Std cam gears (pair) $50 All offers considered, willing to post, can take photos if required. Ph: 0429 140 118

Try a company called Cool Drive for all things air con. Your condenser will need as much air flow as you can get going over it so a side mount won't work, you will need to re-configure your intercooler setup to make it work properly. Hard lines connectors will be needed to bolt into the compressor. You can then run with hoses for the rest of the A/C system without the need the need for hard lines, as long as they meet the refrigerant and pressure requirements. Only thing is, is that they are a little more unreliable.