smithy85

Yeah don't bother with changing the BOV's, the std ones do the job really well and you will find that a lot of pod filter setup's actually resonate the noise back through the intake. I am running HKS pods and they amplify the BOV's as good as an atmo setup, only that they are legal and the more boost you run the different the pitch they give out. Oh and you won't have any of the air flow issues that could arise from other setup's.

Good to see this thread returning back to the original topic! after all that rubbish in the middle! @discopotato03 - It's good to see someone with a genuine knowledge and interest in turbos rather than a "heresay" opininon which seems to be the common trend lately lol. Your always an intersting read keep it up mate!

About time!!! GTX28 Woooo!!! This will open a whole new can of worms for those of us with GTR's. No product catalogue info on the Garrett site as yet - keeping the eyes peeled though!

Yeah I have to admit that those times were set with racing tyres, so I'll grab some SS tyres and tweak the setup to suit and have a red hot go! sub 56sec would be great. Will try some other cars too.

Anything to show 'em off eh! The std rotors are good enough, considering how quick its going at the moment! - pushing in and out of the workshop, lol!

It would be good to do a Tsukuba "time attack" comparison using stock based road cars like GTR's/RX7's/EVO's etc. tuned to within an inch of their life just like the real event. My bests are with a controller no assists, with best parts/setups possible: - R32 GTR 53.6s - RX7 54.2s More tuning might get them going around even quicker!

Hey mate, I have a complete set including actuators removed off a R32 GTR in good condition with minimal shaft play, 103000km old. mob: 0429140118

^^^ I too run Motul 8100 X-cess (in the GTR) and have done now for over 4 years. Really good oil, can be grabbed from Autobarn for about $76 and change it out at about 3,500-4,000km as the car is daily driven, never any issues.

let us know how you get on and what you needed to do + post up the pics when its all fitted!

By trial fitting without a tyre, the suspension geometry (when the car is jacked up) is a bit different and will give the impression that the rim is going to stick out more than when it is back on the ground. So you will find the top of the rim will actually move in towards the guard once the car is lowered back down. It will definitely need some guard rolling and possibly some stretched tyres depending on how low the car is - will look tough though!

bump

Poor advice man! Not all red oils are auto type fluids!

What brand/type of clutch is it? and what mods have been done to the engine? ie: is the clutch correctly matched to the engine power?

Have a pair of R32 GTR turbos in good condition, 103000km

You really need to find a wiring diagram, as there may be a horn relay in there somewhere as well. Most horn circuits actually get power from the fuse into the switch then through a relay, if fitted, and then finally earthing through/or after the horn itself. Try speaking to the trimmers/interior shops for a bit of info on the airbag advice as they deal with this issue all the time.

Not a MUST for the ATTESSA system, but IMO a must for the transfer case.

^Funny! Sorry, thats my immaturity done for today, lol.

No the cam gear reading was only one and bit notches, so yeah only the 2-3 degrees. Should be interesting to see your final results with the adjustments.

Mine are the 1 bar actuators but I haven't driven it with the EBC off. I set the preload just by adjusting the rod until it freely slid onto the pin then turned the adjustment in 6 half turns so the rod needed to be pulled onto the pin with a bit of effort. Do you think there is much to be had by adjusting them anymore than that? what was your initial preload and how much adjustment has been required to show the results you have got?

Cheers mate, Low boost @14psi is still through the EBC, which is a Greddy Profec Bspec 2. The cam gears were pretty much left untouched from the original tune with the std turbos which was response. The settings that i can read (through the clear cam cover) look like: - about 2-3deg adv. on intake side and about 2deg ret. on exhaust side (which is a bit hard to read because of the CAS being in the way). Been for a couple of runs to the shops and the car is still very responsive. Would be hard to beat in the hills I reckon lol. Though the real boost doesn't come on til around the 4k mark (up about 300-400 on std turbos), the car is still much quicker while its coming onto boost than it ever was, and its really pulling hard at about 5K all the way through the revs. So you could say the car is now quicker everywhere through the revs. The -9's seem to be an almost perfect match to the revvy nature of the RB26 when compared to the std "choke" turbos.

Dyno chart: That "flat spot" around 4400rpm is just the GTR's 4WD system, affecting the curve.

Injectors sold. Price drop on the standard R32 GTR coilover suspension - $250 ono

Got the car back today, pulled 287kw @ 18psi, full boost around 4000/4100rpm range according to the dyno sheet. Only drove the car for the 10 min drive home, and it pulls hard on boost. Will give it a good run over the weekend to see whats what, and will post up the dyno graph hopefully tomorrow

Car back from being tuned at JEM (AWD dyno), mods as follows: Garrett 2860-9's with Garrett 1 bar actuators Split dump pipes Trust 70mm into 80mm front pipes X force 3.5" cat Veilside JASMA 3.5" exhaust (centre muffler removed) HKS pod filters 720cc denso injectors HKS cam gears Apexi Power FC Greddy Profec Bspec II Splitfire coil packs Std internals Std AFM's Std fuel pump High boost - 287kw @ 18 psi Low boost - 248kw @ 14 psi (Compare to old standard turbos which made 233kw @ 14.5 psi)

^HAHA! Yeah isn't that the truth lol. DO NOT spend $2200 on rebuilt steel wheel standard turbos. Get some Garrett -7's or -9's for that price and reap the benefits instead of burning money on turbos that are barely even suited to the RB26. And where did 4k! come from for fixing some injectors and an oil leak?! Unless it was a new piston job or something deep. You should be able to find some aftermarket, second hand, bigger injectors for about $500 in decent condition or simply get a used set of std injectors - always available, and cheap as chips. Oil leak into rear turbo?, doesn't the factory rocker breather plumb into the rear turbo inlet? my rear turbo was oily beacuse of this too - didn't mean it was a leak though. Who did the diagnosis on the engine faults? Depending on tunes, 350km out of a tank isn't all that bad. Dont get me wrong, its not great by any means, but I was running close to that (380-400) with std turbos on a "super duper" safe tune by Croydon! Then changed tuners to JEM and am getting closer to 420/430 with more power. Food for thought.