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smithy85

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Everything posted by smithy85

  1. +1, its just that the metal 'nut' gets really hot and it inevitably transfers the heat through to the insulator, hence the brown is at the base. common.
  2. Just because it has no issues, doesn't mean you shouldn't do something about one of the most common problems (most people will eventually run in to) on skylines. They call this preventative maintenance. Quite smart actually.
  3. ^ yeah thats similar to what i have in the GTR only mine is way more rough and ready but does the job of deterring police (if required).
  4. www.gamespot.com.au have just reviewed it and gave it an 8.5, they reckon the game is going to be more like a Forza 3.5 than Forza 4, because it features the majority of the Forza 3 content but very little extra in the way of cars and tracks (the important stuff) . Might be hard to justify getting this one at the moment.
  5. So essentially - extend the breather hose or just deal with it, lol.
  6. The reply from Redline gave me links to these two: Bulletin115 Shockproof Climbing.pdf Bulletin116 Shockproof myths.pdf Very interesting reading and explanations.
  7. try this link for some info: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/technical/84893-driftworks-r33-gtst-braided-clutch-line.html
  8. If you have standard turbos (ie: <240kw) then it will be sufficient for normal driving, you might even get a launch or two out of it if its in very very good condition, but don't hold your breathe. If you want more power than the std turbos can give, then get the clutch swapped out first.
  9. What air flow meters are using to get up to that figure? Are the standard still coping or have they been changed to Nismo or Z32? My car is getting tuned in just under two weeks with -9s and 720cc injectors so i'm thinking the AFM's are going to be the next limiting factor.
  10. Still available Will consider all offers
  11. Yeah should be alright as long as it draws air from outside the engine bay, ie: the pod filter element can't be exposed within the engine bay.
  12. Yeah the NSW coppers LOVE pod filters that aren't enclosed, it's first thing they check when they ask you to open the bonnet, but as has been said, out of sight out of mind seems to work them. Nearly all pod filters are dry type and you don't want to go oiling them as they eventually start griming up the air flow meter, which in turn makes the car run like a pig.
  13. Forgot?! Shouldn't have needed to! "bolt on upgrade" they said, - damn you Garrett, lol.
  14. yeah good idea with the trial fit lol. you wont damage the cartridge because it really doesnt take that much effort to bend, just don't be too aggresive with it hehe.
  15. Just did -9's on mine and we ran in to the same problem. You can either go out and get a pair of drains like what GCG sell: http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=209&category_id=131&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=101 Or just bend the pipe slightly (and slowly), which is the option we chose: Mounted the flange the best we could then used a breaker bar handle down the hole to lever it away from the bolt head, worked well - just bent it a little, checked it, bent a bit more, checked it, etc. Another thing to double check is the compressor housings are rotated around in the correct position, because mine was slightly out, ie: rotated a bit too much clockwise. This didn't become apparent until I went to install the 'twin turbo' pipe and the rear turbo outlet flange didn't mate up, so had to get a longer silicone hose from the rear turbo to the TT pipe. So I advise just quickly comparing them with the ones you pulled off and adjust if necessary.
  16. Not the drains from the breathers. Rather drains drilled into the back of the head that drain directly into the sump - stops the oil pump from getting carried away with itself and pumping more oil up to the head than the head can drain back, leading to oil starvation. Do a search on here for the oil control thread, heaps of info on it.
  17. US 91 = 95 RON in Aus It's not 98 but still tuneable for good power levels
  18. Email sent to Redline Oils, lets see what they say about this, if anything.
  19. Common problem, just changed to the shockproof oil a couple of weeks ago and sure enough I have oil coming out of the breather, never had this issue until this oil went in. Is there a solution to this issue other than changing the oil, seems like a waste of big dollars to dump it for a different brand. Might try contacting Redline otherwise.
  20. Big name jap brands like Tomei and Jun for the oil pump are more reliable than the N1 but you pay way more for the them. Does your engine have the head oil drain mod that is quite popular?
  21. Yeah, running 91 I would say about 400/450whp max, but as has been said, you won't see much power under 4500 at absolute best. Lag machines. GTR_JOEY can confirm this lol, been there done that.
  22. Try these guys. Really cheap and they have the proper boots not the rubbish universal ones. Both my mate and I use these on our GTR's. C.V Joints Aust, 2-8 Alexander St, Auburn NSW 2144, Australia
  23. A bit of overkill - I only have a daily driver with GT-SS turbos, so I only need between 550-700 maybe 800 absolute max, Cheers anyway.
  24. G'day all Need some bigger injectors to suit the RB26 standard rail - min 550cc. Car goes on the dyno soon but need these first. Show me what you got.
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