smithy85

You won't need an aftermarket FPR for a GTR as the factory one works really well. The only reason you might want one is to squeeze a bit more fuel out of injectors rather than upgrading them, but that's about it.

The alternative part number you are after is: 780371-1 (includes actuators) and the part number more commonly used is 707160-9 (without actuators)

A dyno is the best way to adjust cam gears, no point guessing as every engine responds differently

Try: www.rhdjapan.com or www.perfectrun.com.au These are the best Jap suppliers I have dealt with and can get pretty much all parts nice and cheap.

A leaking rear main oil seal could potentially throw a bit of oil around causing a bit of slip of the clutch. But if you are going to replace the clutch then obvoiusly do the rear main, spigot bushing and gearbox input seal while you're there.

search for a 'how to' on remove and install of the turbos, no hope in doing the dumps otherwise

^ hmm, i wonder where you work, lol.

clutch cable - ummm, no

lol... all talk!

oh ok so how many turbos do you have, muscles?

Well thats a good thing then, Cheers guys

Hi all, Car is a R32 GTR still running standard turbos and actuators, and I am getting a really fast ticking noise coming from (what sounds like) the left hand side of the dash - only on full boost though, when the actuators are open. The noise is a plastic type of noise rather than a metallic sound (if that makes sense). As far as I can remember, this has only been happening since the Greddy profec B spec II has been installed. It happens on both the high and low boost settings of 12 psi and 14.5 psi, and boost stays constant at its peak, ie: not fluctuating. PowerFC shows normal knock/timing readouts on the hand controller. Car has been tuned with this EBC, with none of the settings changed since. My question: Is this simply just the noise the boost controller makes as it controls boost pressure, or could it be another issue that I should be looking at? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Cheers

Biggest is always best when it comes to exhausts, although I believe that alot of the power that can be gained from the exhaust is through the front pipes and cat. It wouldn't hurt to get a larger cat back section fitted to reduce the overall restriction on the system, but again the main gains come from the first half of the exhaust system, which is overly restrictive from the factory. I personally had a 3 in (GTR) cat back exhaust fitted to the std cat and front pipes and then changed it to 3.5 in and only noticed small gains to the top end. It wasn't until I changed to the big Trust front pipes and 3.5 in hi flow cat that I noticed significant power gains through the rev range - particularly in the midrange.

Some place on ebay is selling dash 9's WITH actuactors for 2250 total delivered, pretty cheap. Or if you are really keen they can be purchased from the U.S for a good price with the dollar nice and strong, only issue doing this way would be shipping costs. Note: These turbos are more commonly called GT2859 rather than the GT2860-9, so try that when searching for suppliers.

Yeah basically the centre muffler is the main one for loudness while the muffler out the back more controls the note, ie: cannons tend to drone where as mufflers muffle (funnily enough)

Having a garage clear out, open to offers on anything, willing to post most items. All standard parts have come off an R32 GTR: x1 BMC pod air filter x1 3.5" centre muffler taken from a Veilside JASMA exhaust $80 Std ECU $100 Std front pipes, with shrouds, good condition $100 Std exhaust manifolds $100 std catalytic converter, good condition $100 x1 Std Air flow meter, good working order $120 Full set of Std suspension, good condition $280 Set of Std rims - minor gutter rash on most wheels, 2 rims with excellent tyres and 2 rims with worn tyres. $650 - Pickup only Location: Sydney Pics to come on the major parts otherwise pics on request

I have had two calibras, both had there issues - mainly electrical. I had the 4 cyl 110kw versions and even with light mods was beating SSS pulsars and Integras, so not all that bad bang for buck. Also got a chance to go in an AWD turbo and was quietly impressed. Only thing is that, for the same cash, you can get alot of jap turbos that are quicker and more reliable, oh and cheaper to fix lol.

98 RON fuel is 98 RON fuel regardless, it is refined to the same standards, so there should be no difference in mixing between brands. It is generally only bad batches that cause inconsistencies in quality, or if your unfortunate enough to go to a station that has its tanks quite low then you may find minor issues in fuel consumption and power to an extent, but usually not to the extent that it can be noticed from a drivers point of view - maybe only a hand controller or similar showing slightly higher/lower knock readings. Massive (unsafe) differences in knock levels can only be down to using a lower rated fuel ie: 95/93/91, or an EXTREMELY bad batch of 98, which would be rare.

The standard ECU tends to go a bit silly/overboard with fuelling when the boost is increased that is why you would be getting a rich mix, best just to play it safe mate - spend the extra to get it done right the first time. You will not only get more power but way better fuel economy as well - win, win.

I wouldn't risk installing anything like this in Aus, cos of the huge differences in fuels, climates etc between us and Japan. As stated above, best to get yourself a PowerFC or something similar and get the ECU tuned specifically for your engine, better investment to spend that extra bit of cash now rather than potentially destroy an engine.

^^^ we just did GTR_JOEY's standard intercooler today, and used brake clean to run through the tubes and gave it a good shake around - flushed it through a couple of times and it ended up near on spotless internally. Might being doing mine soon after seeing all the oil and grime that came out of it. If your "only" after 300 kw then forget about fuel pump, intercooler and AFM's unless you are worried about their condition or want room for more power later on (which will require turbos swapped out) - standard stuff has the capacity to support this power output, all be it, close to the max (AFM's). Injector upgrade will be a must though, 550cc minimum. If you want better midrange/response then yes, change those front pipes straight away - bigger the better, and get the biggest catalytic converter you can fit, this will improve the overall response of the engine, adj cam gears will be the finishing touch. After these things have been done then a good tune will be mandatory, resulting in one very quick, responsive GTR! Also a quick note that some of the Apexi PowerFC's apparently have a software issue that results in a random miss (feels like an ignition cut), nothing major just another annoying little niggle lol. Try a search for a bit more info on this.

For everyones info, at the current exchange rate, www.greenline.jp have the step zero kit [for use with standard rods] for $3600 plus delivery. So thats less than 4K to get the kit to Aus = cheeaapp!

Probably Garrett -5's: enough power with room to move. Check out the RB26 dyno results thread, hundreds of results to sift through.

R32 GTR Power FC Full exhaust Cam gears Greddy EBC 12 psi = 209 kw 14.5 psi = 233 kw

I know of one GTR that destroyed a standard piston, yet it "only" had 290 kw at the wheels. Common thought is that high boost plus high revs equals pistons failing, the piston ring lands usually suffer and break. For peace of mind I would opt for forged pistons, no need to go out and by the $2k "bees knees" jap brands, just something like CP pistons would do the job nicely. Also good bearings, oil pump and restrictor. Standard rods and crank will be fine. If you have the engine apart then why not spend that little bit extra to get an engine that is strong and sound.