gts-23q

Excellent thankyou for the suggestions. I never heared of unigroup or jem. will look em up.. See i knew thered be some suggestions lurking somewhere:)

Firstly id need whole diagram as i dont even know where the lateral G sensor is located. I think its in the centre console from what ive read. But youre right i will one day soon check all fuses first and check connections as much as i can but not having total diagram i might and probably will miss some connections needed. Also not knowing how the various system interact would make it harder for myself. Who knows my powersteering issues might be connected to the 4wd issues which might be due to the hicas lock bar being installed incorrectly. i mean its gets messier and messier as you go. Anyhow ill see how i go with suggestions of work shops first. I might speak to a few before i make a decision.

Nah not really having a crack at anyone just to me seems bit pricey for a mechanic to charge. I dont know perhaps its not too much since plumbers charge $500 a hour:) But id love to be able to find the fault myself and fix it just soo busy with other things that my poor gtr doesnt get the attention it needs from me. I just figure it shouldnt be too hard for most mechanics who work with gtrs and if ppl recommend some i might check em out. Obvious choice being CRD and GAS. But i like competiton if no one supported the smaller names then how can we expect prices to be low. I might take your advice on the self-help thread tho if i find more time on my hands. Just life these days aint what it used to be seems were working more than were living and with a family, cars are being neglected, mine being one of them. Poor thing doesnt even get driven more than once a fourtnight.

Yeh i know youre point make sense. Butttt if you were CRD would you put the car on the hoist and find the right part and change it in 1 hour and give it back to me for $200 or would you find the fault in 5 mins. Keep the car for 5 weeks. Tell me how long you took and how many parts you had to test and change and why. Charge me $2000 for your efforts. If i were running the show I know what id be charging. Unless you personally know a mechanic don't expect to be treated right. Thats the real reason i asked the question. Someone might have had great experience elsewhere. Then again everyone might say CRD is the best and fairest. Who knows.. but id still like to get some more oppinions before i visit some workshops. Wish i had a manual on the whole Atessa system id try find the prob myself. Dont think one exists if it does it prolly in japanese. Wish they made gtr bit simpler. Although they are great how they are:)

Yeh I mean with ppl like CRD and the like. Youre moreso paying for the name rather than the service quality. Im sure a lot of mechanics out there have great knowledge with GTR's and can probably do as good a job but not as well known or dont advertise. It's not always the case where you pay more and always get better. But i mean if you have money to burn why not. I just dont have too much to burn. For me its just an issue of faultfinding and fixing. Not engine building or anything that technical so anyone with knowledge of Atessa and Hicas will be able to fix my gtr issues.. I mean you could pay a surgeon to cut your hair when a hairdresser will do a much better job for less..

great thanks. i think i remember my borther mentioning that name for some reason. unless it was someone else. I have heared someone in Granville is good with GTR's they have built a fast one recently. Wish i rememberd the name. Thanks tho any recommendations are great. Also does anyone think Buckey Street automotive are good? Anyone taken their cars there.?

Hey guys. I am interested in any suggestions where I can take my r32 gtr for some 4wd diagnosing and powersteering/hicas issues. I just want to find a place that doesn't charge more than a brain surgeon would eg CRD. I mean even $60 a hour is cheap compared to $120/hr i think NASA chages less to build a space shuttle. I know most people will say CRD or Advan know what they are doing but im sure there are smaller mechanics who know as much but are not as well known. Simply i cannot justify $120/h fee for fixing a car. I guess im not the more money than brains kind of person. So any suggestions will be much appreciated.. Also the problem is the 4WD isnt working properly front wont spin computer flashing fault code 1 and 16. Gsensor and right wheel sensor. I rather have a propper mechanic look at it tho.. Also powersteering gets hard after 5 mins driving. Think its to do with Hicas and maybe due to the Hicas lock bar the person who owned it prior to me had fitted. Anyhow thanks for your interest. Im in Sydney so pls Sydney and greated Sydney area only cheers.

No, its those looser Holden/Ford fans who cant hack being eaten alive by a real car the GTR Skyline. So they ban them from there indefinately. Theyre scared a street skyline might do a faster lap time than the current V8 dinoasaurs.

Have a set off a r32. Not sure what condition they are in only that they are in good condition to look at externally. They came with the car when i bought it the guy had changed them to larger ones. As far as im aware they are on good working order. Am in sydney. Not sure what price i should be asking for them tho.. let me know what you think.. I might need a week before i can sell them tho as i might need to put em in for rego pass. Car still unregistered, so its kind of a bad time to sell them right now and then have to buy a set if it cant pass rego with the bigger ones... anyhow think bout it i guess.. cheers

damned too many things coming up at once. Wont have too much time to play with the toy.. so ive decided to visit the tuning shop monday and see what they can find and while im at it slip in the Z32's and tune it to a decent 24-25psi.. So many lil issues hopefuly ill have it all sorted asap and i can visit some dyno comps and cruises and stuff. will post all results from the tuning shop soon as its done.. B1 B2

Hi all again... Fault codes 1 and 16 Right wheel sensor and G sensor. Hopefuly thats the only faults. Could this be causing me harder power steering. Perhaps when the 4WD trys to kick in under acceleration it cannot because of the sensors in turn activating the hicas and making my steering crap. Thats my only theory thus far. Will have to fix faultcodes first then well see how it goes... Also to LMANS maybe your rear sensor is fooked also.. check ur 4wd for faults.. This could be causing the shudder on that wheel. I dont know im just guessing.. being the rear is shouldnt matter i dont think.. but yeh someone might be able to help on here.

Hey if you still have the bonnet and it has no dings .. scratches are fine.. ill pay you cash $400 asap..!!!! im in syd so i hope youre in syd which you are!!?!?!?! pls let me know asap.!!!

all fluids are topped up. im kinda guessing the pump aint working or the clutches are stuffed or maybe wheel sensors...

Ive read through the other thread about the 4wd and steering. it kind of answers the 4wd. But the power steering is still not explained. Is it the possible the fact i have a nismo 300km dash installed thats causing the hicas problems. Is it the lockbar ? I mean it'd a big job checking everything. Im just hoping someone has had a similar problem and has solved it..

Hey everyone, ok just bought the car and has few issues. Before i go to the mechanics and get ripped off I just thought I'd ask everyone here if they have any ideas what the problems might be.. 4WD. It has a 2w/4wd switch in the cabin. It wont go into 4WD when switched over. Front wheels wont spin. Fuse under dash is ok. Relay in engine bay is ok. Shafts are in place. Where could the problem be??? As i not that familiar with the inner workings of the 4WD system... Power steering.. This problem i think is the HICAS but here the problem.. When i start the car and drive for few minutes its fine powersteering is excellent. Then all of a sudden it gets hard to turn the wheel. It as a hicas lock bar put on it and has a aftermarket power fc computer. Remembering back on my r33 gtst when my speedo went the hicas light used to light up and the steering would get hard. Im guessing its the damned hicas doing it here. How do i fix this what can i do to keep the power steering working..Sometimes all the technology they put is just makes life more difficult that easy. While im here with the power fc hand controller i got a maximum knock value of 39 is this too high? Is it an issue as i know its running a bit lean at top revs. Any help much appreciated please excuse my inexperiences.. cheers

Havent seen that car. Could be possible. I will push it to maybe 25psi just over 1.5bar. I mean 330 kw is possible for sure been done many times. 350 would be something to chase anything over would be bonus. Ive driven one with 380kw with a t78 and yeh 380kw when it hits boost at about 5k rpm it does feel like one mean weapon. Thing is the guy who bough the car blew the engine from what i hear and it was a 2.7 stroker forged. So from stories like that i am bit worried of pushing my setup too far.

cmon, someone in syd must have a 32 bonnet for sale. Cant be that hard to get one.

thanks for the reply again.. Yeh the injectors will give up sooner or later. but in tuning the car he can see if they need replacing i guess. Yeh i was also thinking of brembos for it will look for some on the forums. I dont understand why they developed the GTR so well and made it so powerful but forgot to add the brakes. I mean even the vspec2 with the brembos doesnt stop even as well as my jeep does and its 2 tonnes. I mean its a shame that we have to uprgade the whole braking system on the r32's. But id still never change my r32 for any other car in its price range. Will keep everyone posted on work and power outputs and if any engine blowups. fingers crossed as i just bought the car.

I had no idea about the nismo being the same as the z32.. news to me thankyou I thought theyd be limiting me .. I was under the impression the Z32 were bigger. Will investigate, see you helped there as this is something i was totally unaware of. Well as for hp i dont have any concrete figure. I have heared of ppl making 330rwKW on the -7's so i think thats realistic. 400rwKW is what i ultimately am aiming for but not at the moment. I just wanted mainly info on the internals i mentioned if they can hold up to 400rwKW or is it something that i shouldnt be pushing at all or if id need any other parts changed before i try and push it to 400rwKW As for turbos i know theres tonnes and tonnes of info and oppinions. Also will the fuel system need upgrading to get 400rwKW? perhaps surge tank or bigger pump and what would be the ideal cam setup to achieve this power?

sorry was asleep.. i mean i have nizmo AFMS at the moment. Z32s going in few days. It has eagle forged rods also and bearings .. so i think its quite strong and capable of running GT-RS turbos with the cams that will be going in sooner or later. Only thing is lag obviously.. not sure if i want a slug for the streets, the -7's spool up quickly even with stock cams. i imagine -5's will still come on before 5krpm and with cams the GT-RS i would suggest to be on boost in the 4-5krpm range. Which i dont mind too much although id probable regret it when im on the street and a WRslug beats me off the lights.

Yeh clutch is nizmo solid centre its 1100hp rated.. but yeh how come not the GTRS turbos? Way too much lag i take it. Also yeh I will be installing either 264 or 272 cams not sure what size they are ,are a friends set so when he gets em out i put em in.. Also i have been told its quite safe to use all stock head gear with these cams. We shall see.. If not the GTRS turbos whats your suggestion for something bigger than the -5 but not as laggy as the GTRS? i just want a good pair of ball bearing turbos that will run 400rwkw or 400awkw without dying after 5000kms. As for the injectors im very confident them handling 400kw.. no point oversizing them..but thats an easy fix and easy to watch as you tune.. but yeh brakes are an issue i need to address.. crap r32 brakes. i might slot some nice pads at least for now... i think ill push these turbos as far as theyll safely go and drive like that for while then upgrade... i mean ppl are pushing 330kw with -7s. Thats quite powerful for street car..

true.. although i think 22psi is around the peak.. so from 350hp on 16psi it should go into the high 400s.. fingers crossed anyhow .. but i mean i was more worried about the internals in the engine.. maybe im being a bit too cautious, i just dont want to rebuild a forged engine.. not cheap.. hence the worry about pushing the power. If i cant get close to 500hp with these turbos i might snap on a pair of -5's or perhaps something like the GT-rs..

k. Its doing 350whp at moment on 16psi. with quite a rough tune and N1 afm's with 22-24psi it should do much over 400 i think. will have to see but i am hoping 500 and i think the engine will handle it easily with all the work done to it.. fingers crossed.. i heared 2860s are safe to 22psi.. not sure if they are over 22.. might just try it:) wont go over 25 tho..

Hi I have a engine with the specs below. I just wanted some ideas what power i shouldnt try and go over in case it blows. All comments appreciated.. r32 engine rb26dett N1 crank balanced blueprinted cp pistons 87.5mm cp piston rings eagle rods acl race main bearings acl race big end bearings n1 oil water trust sump extension w baffle and large pickup 1.2mm tomei metal head gasket tomei full engine gasket kit tomei oil restrictor mines cam baffles hks cam gears splitfire coils ati harmonic balancer gates racing timing belt greddy racing plugs all new seals idel bearings garret 2860rr stage 7 turbos denso 660 injectors 023 pump z32 afms 3.5inch exhaust to turbos.. running apexi power fc big intercooler etc..... head and cams standard with just an overhaul any ideas how far i should push this setup.. im thinking 22psi to be safe maybe 24psi but powerwise im not sure what it could possibly handle .. i mean assuming its a good build which it is. perhaps 520whp?? or 500whp??

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