stefan-w

I was talking about the 'fix your hesitation' topic before... just realized it's on GTRcanada.com, not here... so here is a link to what I meant; http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech/t-fix...tion-26010.html HEKT1K; 10.7 is hella rich already, too rich and the excess gas washes away the oilfilm from the hone... thus polishing it, causing blow by and oil consumption.

In other words, I'm probably running too much boost? That would be an easy fix... and a woeful one as well haha

Your car actually loses loads of power? Mine doesn't feel like that, it's notable, but it just keeps going on. True, and I've tried fitting one, but a large intercooler doesn't fit between the side markers in my front bumper (stock Type M) I've replaced the HKS bov with the stock recirc valve and pipe, but it didn't make any difference (other than it didn't seem to be as responsive, nor spool as quick as with the HKS). I do need another EMS, I agree... but I'll just turn the boost down for now, to 8psi, and see what it does to the afr. I was thinking about getting a Link or Vipec plug-n-play ECU, but I'd also like to sell the car (I'd really like a GTR), so it would be best for my wallet to leave it as is as much as possible, but I don't want to sell a 'faulty' car.

I've set the boost controller at 10psi firm... stock is 8psi?

I have a Prosport wideband controller set with a Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor. This is the set I have; http://prosportgauges.com/wideband-air-fuel-ratio-kit.aspx No n00bie stuff like getting afr from a narrowband here And I've read this multiple times before on different forums; the stock RB25DET turbo is a T28 with journal bearings, a water jacket, a ceramic turbine wheel and a steel compressor wheel... spec2 is the same but has has a teflon comp. wheel afaik. Not right then? 12 afr is crazy... should be at least 14 to 1, best would be 14.7 to 1, and I'm not even daring to talk about lean burn tech because tuning is not my specialty. No wonder stock Skylines make a full tank of petrol last for 300km or so. Enough for the off-topic hehe 'As rich as possible', I don't know about that... I was told afr should be around 11.5 to 12.0 under full boost, so 10.9 is rich... my cylinder walls must have a mirror polish by now (bore wash), even though it doesn't use a drop of oil. It used to just sit at 10.9 at full boost, wich is rich, but it didn't dump in fuel like it does now. What I don't get is why it does that... any idea? No, they're 8mm, wich is stock. The fpr is also stock, so even when I ad two more fuel pumps, my fuel pressure would still the same.

I've got an R33 GTST spec 1, and I'm running into some troubles very recently... hopefully somebody can help me This is the problem I'm having: When at full boost in lower revs (up to about 4500rpm), my air/fuel ratio is 10.9... pretty rich already. But when around 4500-ish rpm, it goes down to 10.0, and the screen blinks (meaning it is running even richer than that 10gr of air per gram of fuel it can display). This feels like a bit of a flat spot, like the one people seem to have after installing a FMIC (mine is running so rich, I prob. could get away with one). It's idling just a tiny bit rough, but it has done so since I've bought the car. I have not changed anything on the car recently that could cause this problem. This is the speclist (engine wise), most parts are less than 1 year old: - RB25DET, completely stock engine, m/t - stock ECU - stock T28 turbo (ceramic turbine wheel, steel compressor wheel) - stock after-turbo elbow - removed carbon cannister *all else, if not mentioned, stock* - Bullet Exhaust 3" stainless steel downpipe - Autobahn88 3" stainless steel testpipe (OE egt sensor installed after trimming some of the thread of from the decat) - Invidia/RS*R 3" stainless steel catback - Apex'i pod filter - NXS Motorsports manual boost controller (set at 10psi firm) - customised OE spark plug cover (ventilated to keep the coilpacks cooler) - large capacity fuel filter - new Gates fuel hoses in engine compartment and fuel tank - Walbro 255lph in-tank fuel pump - fuel pump direct 12+ volt feed from battery (loom powers relais, 11,5v max) - HKS SSQV mkI blow-off valve - Splitfire coilpacks - NGK 'Iridium IX' spark plugs, grade 7 with 1.1mm gap (BKR7EIX, changed january or february) - Apex Performance aluminium radiator and 1.1bar cap - twin 12" slim fans - DIF dual fan control unit - 76°C thermostat This is what I've tried: - resoldered the afm's internals - ECU reset - air filter cleaned - replaced most (if not all) vacuum lines and fuel hoses - checked for leaks in piping after the afm (there were none) - I always use RON98 fuel - I've read the 'stop your hesitation' topic here, but it is about running lean, not rich... I could try to check the tps though... This is what I'd like to know: What could be the cause of it running só rich? What can I try to stop it? And another question, as it might be part of the problem: When driving on the motorway, my afr is around 12.0-12.4... is that normal?

Hello mates and mate-ettes... I don't know if I'm posting this topic in the right section or not. If not, please feel free to flame my retard ass, but try to help out as well I've bought a second hand, but unused Damsel speedo for my 1993 R33 GTST. My OE speedo now reads kph, after I've removed the converter chip thingy from the gauge clusters' loom. But, after installing the Damsel 320kph speedo, it reads miles... as if there still is a converter in there. There's no switch on the back or something, and I don't know what going on with it. As far as I know, a R33 GTR speedo works fine in a GTST, so if this speedo would be for a GTR in stead, it wouldn't matter, right?

Maybe somebody could help me with installing a Walbro 255lph in-tank pump? When you hold the fuel pump bracket with stock pump and filter sock so that the sock is aiming right at you, the angle is about 20-30% off to the side when I have the Walbro in place with either stock or Walbro sock. The sock hangs about as low as it does when angled straight at me, so I was wondering; just install, or fix the angle...

A few months ago I replied here that it didn't work with my car... I tried it again now I have an aftermarket boost gauge, and I discovered that it actually does work with my car; - 7 or 8psi without the solenoid earthed, - 10psi with the solenoid earthed, but... - when linked to the original loom, I get 8psi till 4500rpm and 12-13psi above the 4500rpm line. Anybody who knows what might be the case? It's not boost creep, and I have an elbow-back aftermarket exhaust, stock smic, stock ecu, and a pod filter... so nothing fancy.

Mad props for posting this, I've already taken apart to see why my mirrors wouldn't fold (both electric motors appear to have died, as it's getting 12v at the plug in the door, and the plastic internals inside are in perfect condition). What I was really happy to read about, was the part about the lights in both rear window defroster and the hazard light switches... I was already trying to find a pair of second hand switches Maybe you could make it it's own topic?

Crap... 'typo', and I should have written it a bit more clear What I meant; I only replaced the wiring up to the female connector (wich goes on top of the fuel tank). I noticed just then that you have also replaced the thin stock wiring from the male connector to the pump itself, inside the fuel tank... obviously, I did not. I don't think that'll cause my light to come on though, but I'm no expert.

I've got ground directly from the battery, just like the 12v feed... it's exactly as in the diagram you made Only I used black and red wiring haha, the loom only powers the relay. That second diagram I've posted was a try, to see if that would solve the problem (wich it didn't, so I went back to your wiring diagram). Only now do I see you've pulled but wires to the pump, not just to the plug on top of the tank (wich I did)... this shouldn't make a difference I hope? I'll do so when upgrading the pump, but not on the stock one. Is that unprotected wiring and an open plug floating around in your fuel tank? Are you sure that's entirely save?

If somebody could help me out on this one, please do I opened up the fuel pump wiring assembly or whatever you'd like to call it, looked at the pins, but it looks fine, and should make contact (just like it did before I started out modding it)... the pins are locked firmly in the plug, as they were before I even touched them. This is how I did the wiring; (I took the relay from the diagram by 'gumflapper'). I first depinned both ground and '12v' feed wire from the plug, then cut off the stock wires from the pins, and soldered the new thicker wire to the pins... the two pins fit well inside the plug and are not loose or something like that. To get rid of the fuel-light coming on in my gauge cluster, I also tried to get the ground for the pump from the original loom, so the diagram looks a bit like this; It still had that friggin' light in the gauge cluster I then put it back to the first situation, and took the ground wire from the battery of for about 10-15 minutes, pushed the brake pedal a couple of times, doors open with dome light 'on', etc. Still has the light coming on What seems weird to me, is that when I meassured the voltage at the three-pin plug, I read a higher voltage when using the ground from the stock pump loom, than when I used a ground from a bolt in the chassis. What am I doing wrong in all this? Also, anybody who knows what the two-pin plug is for? I don't read any voltage from both, with ignition switched on and off, and using the chassis as well as the stock loom for ground. There's nothing about this in the service manual (that, or I just didn't find it).

Hey guys, I did this last friday, actually in the exact same way like gumflappers' wiring diagram. I'm currently running a stock pump, but it feels like it's running smoother through gears, turbo seems to spool a bit better... so my 'gut dyno' says it was worth effort. But now my fuel warning light stays on all the time... haven't tried to reset the ECU, but I don't think that'll solve the problem. Anyone who has come across this problem? Taking the bulb out is no solution haha

Could be better, but could be a lot worse as well. Traditionaly we have Euro 95 and Super 98, then some premiums, wich often are 95 RON or 97 RON, never lower than 95 RON. I never go to a Shell station (they only sell 95 RON), I prefer Esso. And your family is from Emmen? No kidding... I live right next door haha, it's a 30-45 minute drive to the north west from Emmen to my place. Don't expect to find me in Amsterdam, I avoid going to that city full of nutcases and junkies... everybody is full of hot air, nobody in Holland likes people from Amsterdam, except for people from Amsterdam. At least, that's what we think here, up north

Hello boys girls and everything in between, my name is Stefan, 25 summers of age, and I live in Holland. The last few weeks, I've been the owner of an R33 from 1993, so that's a Spec1 GTS25t. I'm a student and I work 30-35 hours a week(-end) to pay for my addiction to boost. Previous cars have been a couple of Civics, two Starlets, an '89 CRX, and the most interesting ride I owned; a 95 Civic coupé, fitted with a B16A2 (1.6 twin cam VTEC) engine with another set of cams and a T3/T04E turbo, and the whole circus arround it... pushing about 300-325hp at the crank. With wich I do not dare to bore you, so here's my Skyline, already been modding it, mainly removing trash, cleaning up the engine bay, etc. VEHICLE DETAILS: Nissan Skyline GTS25t (ECR33) Build 1993, (import JPN->UK = 2006, import UK->NL = 16-05-2009) Dark gray metallic ENGINE: - RB25DET, stock - T28 turbo, stock - Apex'i cone air filter - stock after-turbo elbow - Bullet Exhaust 3" stainless steel downpipe - stock catalyst - 3" RS*R catback (with Invidia end tip...?) SUSPENSION: - Kakimoto Racing 2pc. wheels (17x8.0JJ +34 (FR), 17x9.0 +37 (RR), made by SSR) - Falken GRß FK451 (FR = 235/45/17, RR = 255/45/17) - stock lsd - HICAS EXTERIOR: - Tommy Kaira bodykit (front bumper and (custom) mesh grille, sideskirts, rear spoiler, rear bumper flaps) INTERIOR: - Simoni Racing steering wheel (temporary) - FET turbo timer - Räzo leather shift knob - HICAS-hub - Sparco black hub spacer SOUND SYSTEM: - Eclipse doule-DIN head unit with in-dash 6CD-changer (display has died) - stock speakers front and rear VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFY1utN7-vE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPxb_QtTVqg PICS: Plans include (in random order) a brake upgrade, FMIC conversion and sideflow manifold, GT-series turbo, top mount manifold, replacing the rear spoiler with a Spec2 or GTR wing, lowering it, new wheels, seats, a roll bar and other chassis reinforcements etc etc. It's a daily driver, so no dori dori

Now that's a good reply, thanks for the info!

The solenoid is also some sort of a boost controller? Stock, there is a hose from the intake tube going to the solenoid, and a T'd of hose from the hose between the actuator and intercooler pipe... I removed the piece of hosing from the T-piece, and attached the hose from the intake tube. When it went to maximum boost, it had some misfiring, like in the coilpack thing. But I fixed my coilpacks, it never misfires at max boost with the stock hoses... so I think it was 'over boosting'. Am I right about my theory?

Connected the solenoid to ground again yesterday, no luck even though I used another grounding point. I'm not going to try again, just slap on an R32 actuator or EBC

Why does it work with you, but not with me? Crap... beats me. If it doesn't rain tomorrow, I'll pull out my soldering gun again. Rain? Yeah, Dutch summer, woohooo

I got to doing this today on my S1, the 'smart entrance' box is indeed behind the glove box housing... Removed the glove box, unscrewed the six Parkers, and disconnected the wire on these shitty pictures; If you just unplug it, and take off the black plastic cover, remove the piece of plastic locking the connector in the plug, and remove the lower left and right wires on the side of the small connector. Lower left being the green wire triggering the auto-lock for the passenger door, and lower right being the black/purple-ish wire for the door-beep.

I did some work on it today, and removed the solenoid. 5psi, and nothing more. So, reinstalled the solenoid, gives me the 7psi again from 4500rpm. Too bad it doesn't work...

Spare time times beer equals paint-jigs Thanks for the replies Yarp, much appreciated. Isn't there a forum on SAU were people introduce themselves?

I should do that don't I hehe, but I've got 'adequate' knowledge about turbocharged Honda Civics, so I still need to look into re-tuning options and what's needed or not, etc. Right now, I'd just like to create a nice driving car within the boundries of it's stock ECU mapping, so in the meanwhile I can learn. Now I'm looking into this; There is a piece of tubing between the actuator and cold-side charge-air pipe, with a T-piece going to the solenoid, also a piece of tubing between the BOV-recirc pipe and the solenoid; When I'm getting Davo's post right, all I need to do is; - remove the solenoid - close the opening on the BOV-recirc pipe - run a straight piece of vacuum hose between the cold-side charge air pipe and the actuator. It should then look like this; This will give me the full 7psi an R33 actuator will allow... am I right? I hope so, if so, tomorrow will be solenoid-removal day If not, please flame me for being an fng, and tell me what in my drawing I is wrong.