FJ20DR30

im not sure what they are ment to have but i believe its a t3 normally.. anyway mine has a vg30 as im told? but is there a way you know of to ID what turbo it is? do they have a physical difference i can use to make sure i get the right down pipe? at the moment it has a standard pipe which is basically a flat plate in front of the waste gate so it will make a good change to get a decent pipe on there

yeah you can easy too i thought about it.. i dont know whats better.. vn commodore alloy rad that i have or Chinese rb/ca rad

how do id it?

My skyline has a t28 or t25??? i think from a vg30.. i want a downpipe for it do you know if i can get anything? or if any other turbos are the same? that i can get a down pipe from? i have no idea about these turbos a brief search on ebay yielded no results Cheers

i think the bottom hose is on the wrong sides for r32/ca radiators?? i have one i was looking to use here..

how hot did you get it though ydr? 100deg under pressure so i understand it is ok.. it was good at cooling it self back to the 80s.. ps d-limo thermostat is in the housing on the engine that the top radiator hose attaches too

have you had temp issues with your fj? cause in general mines been really good it hardly gets much past 60-70 deg at the thermostat on hot days (just street) sunday was 30+ 36max i think and it was creeping toward 100 at thermo after hotlaps but cooled back to 80-85 after a cool down lap.. i have got a VN alloy radiator fitted plus using water wetter and a good large thermo fan + i cleaned it all out in preperation for the heat ill be fitting an oil cooler before the next time out though regardless of the heat as i want to do many more track days in it

yeah the diff is great the car it self went very well i only have a couple of clips all from that spot so not really worth it, the heat pushed the cooling system but overall its a good strong car

ku36 fronts and michellen pilot somethings on the back, grip is actually very good despite the clip

hey here is one of the clips of my dr30 @ sandown on sunday the 23rd a very hot day so only did 1 or two hot laps per session this clip was making a small mistake out of the final turn but i thought it looked good on camera and felt like sharing the car performed really well.. my first video upload hope it works

is the cage bolt in? do you have pictures? im very keen

hmmmm that combo wont work with what i have not enough concave parts?, i spoke to stewart wilkins today he gave me pointers.. he said that its likely one of his diffs as he does the version with 12plates standard have only 8 and he said they shouldnt bind on turns anyway and that he felt the dirty oil was maybe causing the diff to bind too much on turns and that new fresh oil is why it felt smooth on turning, he said to put it back together and see how it goes on the track

well only 4 of the 12 plates are concave, there the outer 2 on each side so you have them facing like this? .. ))||||centre||||(( or like this? ((||||centre||||)) lol diagram

also and cost and availablity ideas on those clutch packs ydr?

ok so i took it apart tonight.. its a mechanical 2way unsure of brand?? the two outer most clutch plates on both sides have a concave bend to them which seemed odd (i was going to reassemble those plates the other way around..) other than that there appears to be no damage to it which is a little curious im lead to believe i may have the wrong oil in it (this all started when i changed the oil) anyone know what a mechanical 2 way should run? and any other feed back and tips? anything i should look out for?

^ is that the same style as shims in the s13 diff to help make it tighter?

dont change to s13!!!!! sorry to be blunt but iv been there and done that and s13 knuckles have bad bumpsteer issuses but worse the "tow in on turns" is wrong it completely ruins the front end geomitry they only way i could see to fix it would be to cut and shut the s13 knuckles (like the drifters do) to match the shape of the dr its my 2cents only but if you want a dr30 to be a good race car i believe its better to use z31 inserts cutdown mcphersons and weld on strut sleves retaining the cars original geomitry

Hey guys. im doing a track day in my dr30 on sunday and my longnose r200 lsd has decided it wants to be 1 wheel drive! i have to pull it down tonight but i belive it is a nismo or cusco lsd (not fitted by me) if this is the case i naturally dont want to weld it! if its standard i may?? the reason im posting this here is that i have a ca18det shortnose lsd with shims complete and im trying to figure if there is someway i can use it? if the centres fit can i just weld the ca diff and use my r30 cv shafts? please give me some direction as diffs in general are far from my strong point!

cool thank you. weird about the padding ?? i mean wierd you didnt already need it! i wouldnt like a cage with out it

hi im sure this has been covered before but do i need a "CAMS" approved cage if i wish to have a cage to compete in club style events such as sau etc? or is a safety21 cusco bolt in cage ok? at this level? i just see a few cars running what look like bolt in cusco cages in there cars? i have read the cams rules and they do permit certain styles of bolt in cage anyhow so hence my confusion. cheers Marc

ok cause you had such a sweet set in speedhunters!! here its not finished yet though bro so look over the details lol

i want to do a bit more before i get more pictures out there.. it needs to be lower. it also needs more front track and camber im going to try get some adjustable s13 lca's as the look like they will fit. and a few little extras

17s yeah, i used 240z flairs from topstage there not perfect though so i may get dr30 ones from Japan?? it still needs to be lower + so so much other things

hey so im underway what do you think? first day so not a flash picture but this is just a sneak peak

Hey sure it's been covered before but who at sau do I need to talk to about club rego? Im aware of the rules I just want to get the ball rolling Cheers