scotty nm35

No, the stock ecu must remain in place. Rick and I have set the Fury up to run in parallel with the stock ecu, which is still running the cams and throttle. Seems to work well with no errors at this stage. Still a long way to go before removing the stock ecu will be possible, most likely we would need to ditch the auto before going full standalone.

Considering the price of the ecu is twice what I bought my last stagea for, and you can't actually buy one due to some exclusivity complex they have, I decided to ignore that particular ecu brand. I needed around the clock factory support which even Haltech couldn't give me, infact I am still waiting for a call back from their support line. Link gave us what we were looking for, a brand new Fury 6 cylinder specific ecu with direct wideband, cvt cam control and the ability to run our M35 electronic throttle in a cheaper package than the other leading brands. Unfortunately it's out of the budget of most Stagea owners, but for those pushing the boundaries with power it should be the best option available, and other than the MAP/IAT and flex sensors it will plug straight in with the patch loom. Finally a better ecu than the Fcon for standalone control.

You assume most of us are running the EMU, but there are probably only 30 Stagea's powered up on aftermarket computers in total I suspect, some of which run the fcon and HDI. The HDI has little chance, doesn't have injector or coil interception and modifying the AFM signal isn't the way to tune cars at the best of times imo (certainly not for high boost, think modern Apexi safc). The Fcon works better in MAP tune than the EMU ever did as an AFM/MAP tune but if you think the EMU was hard to sort out... The Fcon is a whole other league. The Link Fury will be 10 times better and should finally be able to ditch the AFM all together, plus it just started Ricks engine for the first time. Off to the tuners.

Hence why I would stick to BC's. MCA are great to deal with, My evo7 is running their red series without issue and I have heard nothing but praise for them, but... I don't get why they designed the M35 Stagea gear like that. The top shock mount is weak and fails stock even without the spring around the shock. As you can see they have had to brace and gusset the top mount to get it to handle the forces, but will they warrant your chassis long term against failure? Perhaps that's the question you should ask Josh.

The hassle is it isn't OBD2 protocol, no matter how many you try it most likely will never work. I have tested way too many readers over the years, and the Consult 3 is the only unit I can use for diagnostics and relearn procedures.

You now hold the record Christian.

Exactly Dale, they just seem prone to failure at top end flow. I have seen a genuine Nissan AFM last 20 minutes, first time he put the boot in it blew. No warranty either, as I couldn't prove the Km it had done, wasn't installed by their techs, and lastly was fitted on an import. Got to love all these ways companies wriggle out of warranties.

Tried epcdata Nick?

You can run a Nismo reg off an aftermarket rail if you don't think the stock rail will flow enough. Either way I would run a gauge inline to check the pressure doesn't spike anywhere or drop on load. What pump/s are you planning to use?

Not just the large puck wastegates, the stock actuator has bugger all travel and blows open with the slightest manifold pressure.

You mean the temp sensor in the AFM or have you wired in another and fed it back to the stock ecu? A simple resistor should work instead of the afm temp sensor shouldn't it?

Really depends what the use will be, it's too large for the street if you want response, but as a track turbo it would work well imo. I much prefer a smaller turbo and leaning on it harder (for the street) but a 3L should spool the GT35 up nicely anyway.

It won't stick if there are any errors or faults either. Probably best to just use the correct tool, Consult 3.

No need for antilag settings if you chose the correct wheels in the first place.

I have modified a few rails in my time, but the stock 34 rail flows stupid amounts of fuel. What are you trying to do?

Better check the pressures they are rated at with that flow. The 1400 Delphi's aren't too bad either, if your tuner has no issues setting up larger injectors. It gets hard to sort the idle and cruise on injectors that big. Twin injectors per runner may be a better option.

Could have been me, I use eastlink a fair bit, but I am sure a few of us do.

Stock GTR airbox is good for 500kw, as is the stock paper element filter. Sucking hot engine bay heat is counter productive.

Shite fuel. Can't even stand the smell of it anymore.

How do you know if an exhaust is a restriction? Unless you can somehow drop the dump at the turbo flange... otherwise the dump might be the restriction. Bigger and straighter it is the better usually. Larger diameter at the dump and dropping half an inch around where the cat usually sits seems to work well for me, with the least bending possible.

^ This. Don't know why...

Greg made 400kw on the Blitz return flow, on e85. I can't see why you would need anything bigger than that for your output, but obviously a full 600 x 300 with custom return piping behind the cooler, will outflow all the ones you pictured.

Get it on the track or up in the mountains and you will be using your knees to hold your arse steady. You sit on the stock seats, not in them, and they are high enough that you stare at the rear vision mirror instead of the road. My seats dropped my arse at least 3 or 4 inches at a guess. I suppose it depends how fast you want to go around corners at the end of the day, and how tall you are.

V35 Bride rails, but they do am M35 version.

Here is mine. Love the Euro 4's.