scotty nm35

I can supply drop in plug looms for any top feed you like. No need to restrict yourself to using the exact same plug. PM me with a list of your mods, fuel, etc, and how much you are planning for in the future. Injectors are not something you want to buy 3 times as your power rises or you step up to e85.

I swapped it back to the motor drive, as the boost actuated valve made it laggy. I have since made my own 3.5 inch vac operated valve so it opens when I accelerate at any time, and closes on idle and cruise when I have vacuum in the plenum. I plan to bypass it with a 2.5 inch glasspack muffler when I get some time. It's better to automate it I think, to get rid of the drone.

No you wont, unless you have really crap gaskets. I hit boost all the time with it closed. It sounds like a vacuum cleaner on steroids and is louder than with the exhaust open. lol

Mine has saved me a few times, not something you would leave closed long term, but for driving into my street, or past an RBT it has proven itself many times. There are many ways to actively silence an exhaust, but the Varex is by far the cheapest option.

Finally got the whale retuned again today, more timing in the lower parts of the map have made a huge difference to the response down low. Here I was thinking it was the ethanol and low compression making it feel soggy off boost... Drove all the way home with no error codes, then it threw a bank lean as I pulled up. Damn I hate that engine light.

34's seem more susceptible to flow issues through the filter for some reason. I usually replace them for a 40 micron stainless element filter, it then richens the entire map.

To some extent. My understanding is they start becoming unreliable at around 80 psi, taking longer to open due to the extra pressure. This makes the flow vary. I haven't seen any issues with fuel pressure rising at idle, and that is running a 460L e85 pump at full voltage. So you shouldn't have any problem running the stock or Nismo reg until you max the flow of the Walbro. (around 450kw) Obviously base pressure can change this figure a little, but it is certainly true for ethanol at factory pressures. I agree, not much chance of rail damage. The rail is very well protected on most cars. You have more chance of damaging a hardline under the car. There are plenty of OEM alloy rails, most are cheap cast crap. These would break much easier than the solid highflow forged fittings and rails I mainly use. Most OEM rails run two bolts, but the injector can't fall out, the injectors are clipped into the rail, which is a better idea in case the bolts ever came loose, so I agree, keeping the OEM rail in most cases is the best option. That's why I agree you should bolt the Neo rail in place with a robust bracket to the 3 bolt positions found on the 33. Why is it so hard seeing you can fabricate something yourself? You seem happy to run high percentages of ethanol on rubber lines that weren't designed for it, you know full well it will make them fail eventually, but that doesn't seem to cause you any concern. I don't see how a simple rail upgrade could cause the end of the world...

The LC2 seems to be a better unit so far than the LC1 I used to use. Great for if you don't need or want a gauge, otherwise the AEM is a great unit for the price.

Sounds like you have a faulty cam sensor.

I never did like Brembo rotors, take the advice Xklaba dished and get DBA 4000's, that's what I did.

The stock reg can flow 400+ on ethanol, which is more than you are shooting for. Most AN fittings and hoses are rated to 2000psi and handle much higher heat than OEM rubber, they are also ethanol safe, long term. I have been running Teflon lines for 5 years on e85 without an incident, why would it be more dangerous if designed correctly? It's certainly safer than OEM lines that aren't designed for long term ethanol exposure. Most people are running brake lines made the same way, is that a death waiting to happen too? Sounds like you need to refrain from coming in the forced induction section, as illegal and aftermarket performance modification is 99% of the content in here, and you may just worry yourself sick. Spruiking public liability and fuel explosions makes me not want to help you at all, for obvious reasons. Sorry.

You need to get a wideband up the exhaust, to see how rich or lean it's running. I suspect it was set up for larger injectors or something. If that's the case, you will need an Emanage or similar to adjust the fuel map. It could have also been setup to run a Z32 afm or similar... It could even been MAP tuned, but I doubt it. Only the dyno could tell you, but without means to adjust it you can only throw parts at it to test I guess.

Time to drop a 25 Neo in then.

So now you want an aftermarket reg, after making me stuff around sourcing you a factory reg fitting? EFI Hardware couldn't move much on price anyway. Probably best you just deal with Plazmaman.

Exactly why I run 5 port MAC valves. Both hoses vent separately.

It's critical they are installed correctly, but I can't see them causing knocking unless one is very loose.

Yep. Ask away. I have Paypal funds burning a hole in my hard drive.

It's obviously the piston's fault, not the clearance. Get on to your machinist/engine builder and ask him exactly what Piggaz asked above. My guess is he set it up loose because you want to lean on it hard, hence you will get a bit of noise.

I was interested until I found out it was a US sale, and he only had 3 posts. Sorry John.

It's a very long drive.

The battery disconnect won't fix anything on these modern cars, you need to get it on a Consult unit to diagnose the ABS etc.

I was looking at the Phormula kits, well priced. Are they as good as the Kmon? Anyone used one?

Atoyot forum that way. >>>> Aus requirements can suck my big one. How is it safer to have water droplets covering your headlight, dispersing the light? I told the compliancer/salesman if it didn't have the HID's in when I came to pick it up, I wasn't paying for it. Nice car anyway, looks like a C34 stagea at the front, Mercedes rear, but with a decent engine.

You need to order the push in valve cover fittings first, and get the fittings to suit. The push in fittings are available on here somewhere, if not I think Aeroflow do them...

It's around the same price as the EFI hardware adapter, but theirs uses 8 an like we need, not M16 like the Greddy one. I will give them a call tomorrow and see what they can do in bulk, at least they are local...