scotty nm35

lol, someone's a sore loser. I'm getting more and more disappointed with you with every reply. I only did what was asked of me, I legitimately went out of my way to test the differences between the two turbo's, discounting the fact that my SS2 was a noisy pos shagged turbo anyway. The noises it made at nearly 30 pounds were absolutely hilarious. I couldn't wait to get it off my car. I can't believe you tried to tell me it was normal. Now you have decided to call me a liar? Shame on you Tao, I was a good customer of yours until this debacle, now everyone is seeing you for what you are, full of crap. Go and check the graph out if you like, as my tuner has advised you want to, try and prove we somehow fudged the figures. Infact why don't you put your car on the dyno and show us how responsive your latest development is. PS, learn to read a graph, that one is in RPM which isn't very accurate with an auto gearboxes at the best of times... You have a lot to learn mate.

I am under the impression the LC1 had a voltage regulator problem, especially when the control unit was mounted in the engine compartment due to heat. Mine is mounted in cabin and I don't have any issues.

Happy to give you a call to discuss it Matt, PM me your number. It's still a bush core highflow, but there is zero shaft play unlike the Hypergear offerings. I can only assume that's why his require so much oil flow, these do not. I don't think Tao understands VQ25's run over 10 bar oil pressure, even though I have explained it to him many times, why he insists on running such loose shaft tolerances I have no idea, it only forces him to give the turbine/compressor wheels more clearance from the housings which is detrimental to efficiency. He is stuck in RB land. I would like to get the launch ignition retard working, but I will do that on the Link, my tuner isn't confident on the HKS to get that operating, and I would need a speed input. Time for another ECU upgrade.

My LC1 failed after 4 years, now I am using the LC2 in the Stagea it seems fine.

Check out the informeter units and similar, small color display with all ecu data able to be read, plus external oil pressure, oil temp, boost and Wo2. Mine has been working great for years.

Ball bearing turbo's don't need a lot of oil flow, and the GT35 likes to burn a little oil if the feed is opened up from my experience. I would start with a 1mm restricted AN fitting for the feed and see how it goes. A filter in the feed line is a good idea, not a little pissy one, a larger stainless mesh filter to take out any crap that may block the 1mm hole. Pretty sure the F6 still ran a 3 inch inlet, so this would be an aftermarket GT35, do you have some pics of the dump flange side?

When your tuner sets up the parts of the map you should never see, as in when something goes wrong (too much boost, etc) he will want to dump fuel into the map for protection. If you don't have enough overhead (20% or more) it becomes dangerous. Seeing most injectors around that size are a similar price, and most modern injectors tune up nicely at idle/cruise regardless of size there is no real reason to limit yourself with flow. You don't want to have to buy another larger set down the track if your goals change. As Johnny said, the newer stainless internal injectors are the go these days, don't be fooled by the flow numbers, every brand test them at a different pressure so the 900cc Bosch stainless long tip injectors are called 1000's, 1050's, 1100's and 1150's, but they are all the same injector with the same flow.

Bob is correct as usual, it is designed to bypass 10% or so to stop thermal shock loading. Remember the oil in the cooler could possibly be 0 degrees, and if that thick oil hit your bearings at 8k revs as the thermostat opened it could cause failure. The Grex kit is very nice quality, mine has been on for 6 years on my daily Stagea and allows for quick oil heating in the mornings, even though I run a 30 row cooler.

I sold the 3k converter to Fishingfreak with the GTX kit. My current converter has a stock stator with a beefed up triple Patrol lockup clutch, which I ran to a 12v switch for tuning purposes. It should react exactly the same as a stock box in manual mode 3rd gear. The blue line stops at 7k, the red was 7600 revs to compare the speed axis.

Thanks Rick. Pretty stoked with how the new turbo feels on the road, The car feels light and responsive in comparison which surprised me given the increase in power. Now I have a genuine 300kw with the response we all chase. This works well with the stock converter, I am able to easily push 10+psi at stall when stationary allowing a decent launch. Looks like we built the perfect turbo first time around. Hopefully I can get some time to head down to Calder or Heathcote for a 1/4 run soon, I suspect this will surprise.

I don't blame him, it sounded like an admission of guilt.

With a GTX35 I would be going iridium 8's personally, gapped to .5mm. Each to their own, there are many ways to modify cars, some better than others. You only find out if the advice you have been given is correct by putting your engine on the line. Most of your shopping list isn't required to max out a GTX35, such as plenum, exhaust manifold large throttle etc, but I would be going larger on your injectors for when you inevitably have to go e85.

PM'd.

I have a few M35 Stagea transfer cases here, should be exactly the same other than the hole for the gearstick. You could probably buy the whole transfer case for less than that part would be new.

The TCU resets every time you power the car down.

Do they still flow 550cc when not injecting 2 stroke mix?

I suspect the larger disk without porting the hole sufficiently actually limits the flow of the gate. Too slow Nathan, mine is in and running 30psi already. Feels more responsive on the road, makes more boost on the converter when stopped and it's not even tuned yet. Need to fatten up the spool areas of the fuel map so it must be flowing more in that region. See how the tune goes tomorrow. Looks like we are on a winner here Rick. Thanks for the help designing it, was worth all the late nights. Time to get down to Calder for a run.

Test them with water and you may need to replace the whole set. Don't ever test fuel system parts with water, especially pumps and injectors. Have you pressure tested your intake?

Even the .82 divided chokes the top end, I think a 1.06 would be better personally. If you want better response you should select a smaller turbo not choke a larger one imo. I have seen a GTX3076 run 400kw on e85 in Gregs auto 34 GTT recently, before his head lifted. Here is a 0.82 split pulse twin gate 6boost setup I did a while back. The results are in the RB25 dyno thread under Owenliberts, I think he posted a few running 98 and e85. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-43

+1 ^^ The compression bushes failing are very common and creak badly when going up and down driveways etc. Get the 350z Superpro compression bush kit, non-offset. Best upgrade you can do for your front end and only take an hour or so for a good mech to fit. Check the control arm bushes haven't failed, they usually clunk not squeak though.

I wouldn't bother with catch cans, my engine never spewed oil, even at 8000 revs and 40psi at the track. Emptying it is just another thing to worry about when servicing, let the moisture and vapours burn I say.

The going is slow with the Link at this stage, getting tuners off their arse can be difficult at the best of times. The plugin loom is all finished and looks the goods, it was a lot more work than I thought though Beau.

Sorry, try now. I was hoping to sign up as an SAU Business Trader, that way I should get more message space, but it seems the admins don't want me on board. I have tried 3 times now.

So how is a customer going to lengthen the alloy hot side outlet pipe by 20mm to clear the driveshaft? You are the one selling turbo's to suit the M35, you should be making sure they will fit and work long term without issue. This has always been my issue with Hypergear turbos, the customer is on his own once payment is made, and the install costs start skyrocketing.

lol. You might want to fit one to your car first and see what else won't bolt up. 17mm doesn't seem like a lot, but in the M35 it is. As there have only been one or two GT3071 Garrett upgrades I can't see how that's a majority... All this after you told me shoving a Garrett core in would cause premature failure due to exhaust backpressure?