scotty nm35

It's easy enough to buy a tap and fit it, but the plenum would need to be removed, otherwise the engine would ingest all the alloy swarf.

If you get the newer external gate housings it should fit no problem. 4cyl manifolds are easily made/modified. I am in the same boat once the evo7 is run in, I would like to push the 2.3 stroker to its limits, but lag is a bummer.

The Hypergear is an internal gate housing, probably best if you buy a suitable external gate housing and get Stao to machine that to suit his turbine wheel if you are heading down that path. With the GT3076 you can buy Vband housings for them cheap off Kinugawa, ship it to me and I can weld the gate to it. (unless you can find a decent fabricator locally, but you will need to take the car there.) The Turbosmart gates are great and will hold over 45psi these days since the HP caps were released, but i assume you are sticking to 98... I would be running e85 for engine protection if you are worried about longevity

I have a blown one here I will kindly donate to the cause, but unfortunately you are bound to have many issues with this idea. I would be leaving the factory ecu in place, like HKS did with the fcon. Even GTR's leave the factory ecu in place in many cases to keep the attessa etc happy. The Canbus is simply too different from anything else, most readers won't even pick the ecu up, let alone the other 6 computers in the car. The electronic throttle will stump you without going cable, it is just too dangerous to run without protection using the twin TPS signals through an opamp to kill power when there is a discrepancy. The cams are self learning. They change angle constantly and a slight oil viscosity difference will cause a completely different phase angle for a single PWM input. The stock ecu actually learns as the oil warms up and adapts. Quite complicated, and for this reason Haltech didn't incorporate throttle and cams into their 350z plugin until the latest Platinum pro unit. The 3 older ones used the stock ecu and were piggybacked afaik. Anyway, not trying to be a naysayer, just easier to leave the stock ecu in place and trick it into staying happy imo. I am more than willing to go through all this on the phone if you want to bounce some ideas off me.

I have a blue stock front bar here, I can't remember if it was undamaged though. I will have a look if you like. Which tuner have you talked into tuning the EMU? I have heard the Adelaide tuners are scared of them...

Hard part is done, it's just hooking up hoses and pipes now.

Pretty cool how you can fudge the dyno rev axis to make it look almost responsive.

A softer spring should help, as will tuning the car.

Yes, the Kompact could cause this, it's the very reason the stock BOV has the 4mm bleed bypass hole.

No Nate, your engine and it's problems are different. This thread has become a 'my engine is noisy' thread and every noise most likely is a different fault. You engine doesn't run electronic actuators, it has hydraulic ones. I wouldn't run either of those oils personally, but this is just a test to see how your engine responds to the slightly thicker oil at startup. Go the Penrite.

Most decent brake joints will find them if they get the job to overhaul the callipers. You are correct though, rarely does an overhaul kit come with it.

Don't worry, I have come across many with similar skewed opinions on the road. I have had bottles thrown at me, cut off and forced to jump the gutter more times than I can remember. My mate was even knocked out by a length of 4x2. I don't hold it against all car drivers obviously, just the dropkicks that decided my life was worthless for simply riding my pushie on the road and being in their lane. It's a sad world we live in.

You won't know if they are good or otherwise until you fit them, I have had a few sets lately that leak from between the halves, you can't tell till you start bleeding them. I think you need to assume they might need a kit through them, I usually do it anyway for my own cars. It isn't hard to do.

I still don't get what you plan to do once you have written down the rego of the pushie, the police can't do shit off your testimony, even a video of the incident is inadmissible. What is it going to change for the huge expense we will all need to pay to implement? I don't think any cyclist actually wants to use the side of the road. All would prefer a separate dedicated path, as long as it doesn't stop at every road forcing them to dismount.

Those Kando housings are great for the price, there must be a fair amount of inconel in the mix, they are quite hard to die grind. I have a 12cm going on a GTX3076, 2.8 stroker atm.

Agreed, I would love to see how piss poor most (long distance) trucks handle and brake. There have been a few inquiries into certain truck companies lately for this very reason. My mates new Volvo on the other hand... Auto box, handles and brakes perfectly. He has no issue in city traffic with full loads, and is always considerate being a motorcyclist also. So perhaps monthly independant roadworthy tests for trucks are imperative to the safety of all road users, seeing most have a half a million K's or more on them. Money better spent than rego for pushies, that's for sure.

The speed difference is definitely not the issue, my motorised pushie does an easy 50-60kph and is a lot more dangerous on the road for many reasons, most being drivers just don't expect me to be travelling that fast. I understand why road racers get killed regularly on training rides due to the much higher speeds they get to. A usual training ride would be easily 100-200km a day, you can't hate on them for not sitting on the couch instead, it takes constant dedication to get that good, and the road is the only place to train safely when you sit on 50kph averages. I agree, freeways are the best method to ride long distance on a bike, but not to stop at every overpass like they usually design them. Bike paths can be easily setup beside the emergency lane with barriers, but they would need a tunnel under each off/on ramp. No big deal, it would probably be cheaper than those wire rope barriers they seem to be putting everywhere... Anyway, sounds like some of you need to lose your licence for a few months, riding a pushie to work would let you see from the other side of the fence.

If your truck can't stop in a safe distance then yes, it is entirely your fault in the eyes of the law. Same thing would occur if grandma was driving cautiously in her old corolla and you ran up her arse. The person behind is always at fault, no matter the load or conditions. I also agree that the only place for a bike is in a designated bike lane, but in my years of bicycle commuting I have seen all sorts of stupid car drivers that think even that lane is theirs. The only way to make riders safe is to put them behind a concrete barrier. Same goes for motorcycles unfortunately, but we can't cater for all modes of transport individually can we. Bike paths are for family rides, not commuting 50k's to the city each day on your fixie, and all bike riders have the right to chose either the path or the road. I have had my share of B double trucks try and take me out (some on purpose), let alone manic car drivers... and I always rode on the white line, riding as courteous as possible towards other road users. Not many repaid the compliment...

Probably 1000's of people, but that still won't help you. Could be literally hundreds of reasons for noise like that at startup, and you haven't even pinpointed a location to start discussing options. Try the hose trick, find the source, then you should know what you are looking at. If it's the T2 gasket, or manifold gasket, it's a good opportunity to swap out the old turbo's if they are still stock... Before they lunch your engine.

Very hard to find a noise over the internet, you are going to have to pick up some tools and find it. A long piece of hose shoved in your ear is the best option I think. Otherwise you will need to start pulling parts off, like the turbo's. Not the easiest thing to do with a 260.

That's not the issue with his though, the white bushes on the arms flog out on some cars allowing the blades to flop around like a slapper's arse. Never seen those contacts being a problem on the 80 or so V35's/Stagea's I have worked on, can't be a very common issue... Perhaps it's the snow buildup on the blades in winter over there causing excess current draw?

The fuel pump circuit has been posted many times, even recently. I would be doing a google search for skyline FPCM wiring diagram and learn what the circuit is doing to work out what is faulty. Otherwise an auto elec is your best option.

It's no big deal to cut and shut the flange to angle it away from the head, but obviously Kyle is unwilling to do that? Poor service indeed... You could possibly machine it, or weld a wedge shaped flange to the top? I suggest you take it to another fabricator and never speak of 6boost again.

e85 would allow you to run a much smaller turbo for similar power levels, making the car much more responsive and faster overall. Who knows what will break and when, but at least there will be no DET which is what usually kills motors, built or stock. Ethanol will give you more torque, but the way the power is released during the stroke should help with longevity, and your exhaust temps should be around 200c lower also. The only real downside is less K's to the tank.

The air is going through there so fast there will be little difference to the intake charge, but the silicone joiner may not like it if it's too close without the stock heatshield...