scotty nm35

I have both here...

Who the hell measures flywheel horses though, only NA guys.

So you stuck a much larger turbo on, untuned, and you wonder why the ecu is trying to protect itself? Perhaps it should just let you melt the pistons...

Anything is an upgrade from the Snoarer, hey Alvin.

They already do Terry, it is just as illegal to be over .05 on a bicycle as it is in a car.

Yep, same sh1t, different bucket. The airbox is the same I am fairly sure between the s1 and s2 models.

1400cc Xspurts and a Walbro 460L for e85. 1000cc Xspurts and a Walbro 400L for petrol would be even cheaper, like $750 or so. Bosch 044 pumps are an old noisy design, more suited to external mounting under race cars.

I have a few sets here too, you are welcome to come and try them out, but considering the chassis is completely different, I doubt very much they will bolt in. You need C34 seats, the older model Stagea.

I would have to see what I have laying around, but I should be able to supply one for you at least. Send me a PM and I will see what I can do to help. Have you tried Amayama for parts? You should be fine with the 10w40, I always recommend that grade for Australia, and we have similar weather I guess, ie. not snowing.

Yes, front and rear are the same as stock with the touring, but the Track model Brembo's are an upgrade. Same with the V35 brakes.

Of course a pair of GTSS aren't going to flow 500kw very easily either. I was in the passenger seat while Trent tuned Dez's GTX upgraded -5's and while they were right on the edge of wot surge it was quite hard to pick it. I have heard much worse surge before. Of course his engine had cams and a fair bit of work, and every engine behaves a little differently. GCG were right to be worried, but that shouldn't put you off. They have little idea when it comes to turbo's running in the real world, they are just resellers.

A walbro will still work with the power around the wrong way, the pump will simply run backwards and not pump fuel. I would be checking the fuses first.

It's easy enough to drop the flange and see if it helps, but it would have to be a pretty bad blockage... Rag in the cooler pipe perhaps?

To further add to the discussion... If cyclists have to pay rego to use the roads, they must therefore be allowed their own full lane space, just like any other vehicle. Does this also affect the laws regarding low powered bicycles over the (absolutely useless) 200w limit, with possible licensing requirements? Personally I have no objections to adult cyclists having to wear a registration hi-vis jersey and paying a small levy to ride on any road they then decide to. But I think it would end up costing way more to bring these laws in than it will ever make back.

I just replace them with second hand items, as I have a few here. Do you know which side is faulty? If you unplug the blue plug on the actuator at the front of the engine, one at a time, you will easily find which side is noisy, that will tell you which actuator has a problem. This will throw a CEL though which will need to be cleared afterwards. It could just be that you are running too thin an oil, as the cams are affected by viscosity. They should self learn to some extent, but the Consult 3 unit can speed that process up by activating the camshaft re-learn procedure. This may stop the noise if the actuator is still ok internally, so I would get this done beforehand.

Does the housing look like the one above? Sounds like the flange on the manifold is out. What is it? And who the hell uses imperial crap on a Jap car...

So it isn't the same as a kando housing... I used 10mm studs.

Are you using 17mm nuts? Never had an issue with 14mm nuts, I just fitted one the other day. You could just run thick washers under the nuts to clear the flycut...

Moh, learn to internetz mechanic better.

I think this one will sell like hotcakes. Great work Tao.

Where are you Jason? I have a spare wiper assembly here and could swap it in 20 minutes.

Here is the assembly in operation, you can see the coil and actuator mechanism bolted to the camshaft. It is the part inside the spring return that fails. It can be changed without disassembling the engine if you are very brave. One false move and you will need to drop the engine, or at least the front timing cover.

It should fail in the off position, meaning actuator pressure, so yes, it should be normally open.

Without spearing off into the gravel trap, ey Artz.

Work can wait, build thread needs updating.