scotty nm35

It fits fine, I even managed to fit one low mount on an s14 with a little grinding. Make sure the spacers are the shape of the hole in the manifold, not the size of a T3 gasket which is much larger.

Just because the AT light goes off, doesn't mean there is no fault. The auto is in limp mode, you need to get a Consult unit on it to find out the code. Wish I could help but it would be a long drive.

It should be, is the wiring still there?

If you aren't planning on tuning the ecu via the Emanage ultimate or Fcon at some point, stick with as close to stock sized as possible. The G1 profile for $880 is a good deal, or a Sierra stage 1 some other builders use. You will notice lag either way, as the wheel is steel, not ceramic, but it shouldn't be to bad if you keep them close to stock sized. Where are you located Mark? The part you should be more worried about is who is doing the swap...

The car I am working on atm has a PCS auto controller and Haltech with flex. If only you didn't over-fertilize the money tree mate. haha.

I would say I still make 250kw with the valve on mine closed, sounds like a stuck pig though. Great for pretending your exhaust is quiet around the police, or keeping your neighbors happy. You can't really drive it around closed though, it's just too laggy. You are better off getting two large mufflers fitted, as they work out around the same price as a single varex.

Sorry mate. I can sell you 525's even cheaper seeing you don't like/can't get the good brew e85.

Stroked 25, running an auto box though. He is hoping for a responsive 350kw, should probably just do 400kw on a manual car with no restrictions, you may want the 1.06 rear though, and must be external gated.

A good tuner doesn't need lag time guesses from the manufacturer, they work it out initially during the first part of the tune. The problem comes when there are differences between each injector's lag time, as there is no way the tuner can compensate or even know. If you are paying 1k for injectors you are getting ripped. I can sell Xspurt 1000's for $600. Top feed rails are $100 from Goodies direct... The Nismo's are closer to that 1k price, only due to the name.

I'm doing this on a 2.8 atm, GTX3076 with .82 externally gated off the stock manifold. Should be very responsive.

Does it have the pocket lid? Perhaps it was removed, is the DVD rom above the glovebox? It may have been an aftermarket system, which is as good as useless here anyway. I have a spare screen and DVD rom here...

It's been opened up to 3 inch, what would be the restriction? If it was still 60mm it would be obviously. Ti welds fine in an inert environment. Materials are overly expensive for the little weight saving you achieve, and I doubt you would be seriously interested in a $1k dump pipe. Thin walled stainless wouldn't be much heavier if you designed the flanges differently, but I realised years ago, being a weight weenie is a waste of time when you can just take a shit and shave off a kg.

All those products use parts made in China, just assembled here, probably not a good example. The front pipe can be changed obviously, which is why some guys want the (stock location flange) dump only. I would say it could flow 350kw or more at a guess, if the front pipe and cat back are straight through 3 inch.

You just can't explain it to some people Ben, the extra time required to set the idle on the dyno, mucking around with lag times to get them feeling good, the hassle is, there is no way to know if they are all similar. Remanufactured means some company took your stock injectors, ran a drill through them, cleaned them then sold them back for more than a new set of Xspurts would cost. I just don't get it...

It's not the timing chain, it is usually caused by the cvt actuator assembly. I have replaced a few now with s/h assemblies and fixed the noise. Who diagnosed it to the chain anyway?

Mike, you got ripped. Who would pay $175 for a new highflow stainless cat, then shove it into an old rusty stainless Zorst? You can't compare someone elses old S/H rusty sh1t to a new Stainless dump, no matter what you were able to get it for. Tight arses like you are why I can't be stuffed dealing with mild steel at all, you would expect people to work at Chinese sweatshop prices, no wonder Australian manufacturing has gone bust. Why don't you show me your product you made, to sell for less than that price retail... His is the HPI, it is quite the work of art. If I was to custom make one it would be around $400-$450 at a guess, so the new price is about right. I am sure Kinkstaah would sell it at a reasonable price S/H. Is the Tomei 3 inch into the stock 3 bolt flange though? Considering the Japanese use metric tube, I doubt it very much.

If it's driving ok, and there are no pops, stutters or pinging you should be fine to slowly drive it (off boost) that far. You generally know when a car is running too lean or rich because it runs like crap. Make sure you take a new set of plugs with you, they may be trashed by the time you get there. With that amount of extra fuel, you could have probably just filled the tank with e85 and driven there without modifying the map at all.

From what Unitig tell me the boards inside are slightly different, meaning you can't buy replacement boards from Unitig when it fails. How much of what they said is true I don't know, but when the board went in my Unitig they shipped down a replacement next day from Sydney. Great service. I saw Supergas had a new Tig unit cheap, Fabgear 200 AC/DC $1299. It certainly looks the goods, no free foot pedal though, although the Cigweld $1599 unit comes with one...

Looks Great Cam, it certainly looks like a lot of work to do by hand. I bet you won't be making any extra ones to sell...

I always use Hylomar spray on my MLS gaskets. It fills up any imperfections and scratches. At least you can do the head in the car, mine is an engine out job, and two head gaskets.

The acceleration delay is programmed into the ecu to stop the back end sliding out around corners. I managed to get around that by cutting a single ecu wire on the Stagea.

Boost controllers sometimes don't help hold anything. The actuator spring is much more important. What is your minimum boost level currently?

Lets just hope this magical fix actually does something good, and doesn't just reprogram your radio to Jap stations.

Gay threads usually go that way eventually, when the OP realises it's a bad idea.

Just make sure the gasket doesn't fall out of it's groove as you slide it under the heater line, check with a mirror or small screwdriver before tightening the cover bolts.