scotty nm35

Have you had a fuel pressure gauge on it? Some cars have a restrictor in the return line for some reason...

You lost me at internal gate.

What size and thread is it? The M35 Stagea runs 3 x 0.8mm restrictors stock.

So it was likely actually knocking with the shitty plugs, good to see you fixed her up anyway Joe.

This isn't an external gate, it's a crappy exhaust bleed off gate. If your exhaust is building that much pressure then it's simply not flowing enough, and as I would explain to a customer, 3 inch is too small for 400kw. I guess if you researched a little Tao you would have known that, but hey perhaps the carbon monoxide is doing it's job. How are your steering rack boots?

If he tracked his car I may believe that.

And get raped hard. What a bloody stupid idea to promote... A decent exhaust doesn't improve in power when you drop it.

I ordered a few direct from China and had issues, personally I would be buying genuine ones from Amayama UAE if you can wait. I think they were $90ea last I got a quote. Much cheaper than the $200 Nissan wanted at the stealership.

They work well because they actually thought about gate flow, and didn't expect a hole at a 90 degree to flow any decent amount. If there was no pressure in the manifold the standard internal gate would flow backwards. I can guarantee any spring setup would work in that EFR, great flowing design, shame they made it too long to fit in our car.

I used a small air reg set to 8psi, but I suspect you can just shove a ball bearing in the vac line, or disconnect the hose and block it. (if it's anything like a 34.) I have done it on a few cars without issue, but they were getting tuned. I found the factory o2 location a little close for the Innovate, it updates so fast and the mixtures aren't smooth until further down the pipe, not to mention the heat, but if it's working for you it certainly makes life easier.

A pair of Magnaflow mufflers will blow half his budget before a weld has been run, but I agree they are one of the best mufflers on the local market.

The Blue only adds timing and fuel I think, the Ultimate adds and subtracts. You need to hardwire the universal harness, either into the stock loom or I can supply a patch loom if you really don't want to cut wires. Not cheap, but I could prewire that for you I suspect, and send it out ready to plug in.

It can be done, try Jesse Streeter or Import Monster and see if they can supply a Fujitsubo Legalis or similar. Understand these will have a restrictor inbuilt and will struggle to make top end power, but will sound great and be legal or close to legal dB. Otherwise there are quite a few places that could do a custom stainless system for that coin.

Seems to be for diesel trucks, not sure if it's designed for petrol heat. Try ringing Magnaflow and asking if it's suitable, but I doubt the Australian distributor will have them. As Hadouken said, the 5 inch ones should be fine, I have seen 200 cell 5 inch cats flowing 450 odd kw. 6 inch might be a little hard to tuck up, unless you have raised your car or don't go over speed humps. Unfortunately the cat will be the least of your legality issues with a power figure that high.

It's not a 5v cut, it depends which cells you are in as to what the AFM cut voltage is. If you are hitting 21 odd psi occasionally and still have the stock map sensor connected it can boost cut as well. Just bumping the boost up on the factory map will cause the ecu to protect the engine, sounds like you are trying to destroy it from 3 sides so don't be surprised if you have gone backwards in power. tuning time is well overdue.

Using preload to bump the boost up is just plain wrong, it limits the travel of the puck, so your standard adjustable actuator won't actually work as well as adding a plain tension spring imo. I have had no issues holding good boost with mine on a great number of cars, but it does depend on the mods as to what boost it holds, as it would if a stiff aftermarket actuator is used. If you increase the size of the wastegate you need to increase the spring tension, as the manifold pressure is pushing on a larger area. Otherwise your stock actuator will struggle to hold boost as I found on many cars before adding external springs. None of the good wastegates I work with, mainly Turbosmart internal or external, have tapered springs, they are only fitted to oem style actuators as the diaphragm is so small at that end. Turbosmart, like mine allow differing springs to be used rather than relying on the one exponential style that you seem to like so much. These are not common in any aftermarket actuators I have worked on, and for good reason.

My external gate setup used exactly this, most people scoffed as to why I used a 5 port solenoid, but it worked very well. Getting it to work on an internal gate would be difficult as not many have a seal around the shaft with twin ports. Certainly not the Kinugawa, Turbosmart do make one but it's expensive, and not many really understand it's capabilities. Only really needed for running high boost with a low tension spring that would normally blow open.

Ti won't weld well to mild or stainless, as Ben said keep the flange the same material as the tube. Even mild flanges with stainless tube is a bad idea, but that's what most shops use when making stainless systems.

You had better get it apart and see what's broken first, you may need the knock sensor too. Yes, that loom looks similar, on ours it's wired into the injector harness, but you can simply run that one in addition to replace the chewed out part.

The adjustable actuator I used increases the opening angle of the puck by a fair margin, but that is because the body of the actuator is longer. Variable rate spring? You mean the spring is thinner at one end? Never seen that before, and I have no idea why it would be necessary.

Nice and warm Dale, for many hours. Smart little f*krs would just nest it out with rags and grass, anything they can find to make a cosy and protected home. As soon as the door unlocked they would know to scurry away.

Nope, same size internally, just a stiffer spring.

It's fine, I ended up making my own. Stock location won't work. Can you explain the difference between a stiffer actuator and bolting a spring to the side of the stock one? Both offer a similar spring tension, mine just allows you to go back to stock or replace the spring for differing boost levels.

Surprisingly common, I have had to repair a few. I should have a spare knock/injector loom here somewhere if you can't find something local. Yes the lower plenum needs to come off to replace it.

Pretty easy to check if it's my actuator as you so nicely blame, try dropping the spring and see if it still overboosts, the Bluebird I fitted the external gate to was running the stock actuator. Seeing you couldn't supply an aftermarket actuator I have had to increase boost any way I can, it works well from my testing. Hopefully you can come up with something better.