scotty nm35

Nice one Zebra, 8cm? Are you welding the gate to the housing or manifold?

Nice result Jared, Are you sticking with 98?

Nissan have no clue what to run in a 200,000k old motor either. A trial of 15w40 isn't going to wreck the engine... I am running 10w60 at the moment and other than a slightly higher oil pressure and 10 degree hotter oil temps, I haven't noticed any difference driving it.

Sounds like the damage is done then. Why not try a slightly thicker oil again? it's cheaper than replacing the valve train components that are obviously working fine most of the time. It's probably just a high K engine...

$3200... Hahaha... My Nismo clutch cost nearly that, and it might not handle the torque I want to throw through it, (same with the 6spd 350z box.) The built auto is taking it fine, as long as I keep the boost under 30psi. The best option is the 34 GTR box conversion, but the cost is worth more than the car's value, and I aint cutting up my floor pan for it thats for sure.

But it's not, is it. The dyno only calculates RPM from the diff ratio correct? The stally would have it on much earlier than it should be due to slip, unless it was locked...

Of course the turbo is leaking due to no gasket, and most of the manifold and turbo studs have fallen out...

Emanage Ultimate shits all over the SAFknCrp. Pretty sure there are other options... Have you even spoken to a tuner yet?

Better throttle response is subjective, and more based on housing, wastegate design and tune than small differences in turbo spec imo. Strangle the rear and the transient response goes to shit from my experience and internal gates blowing open under pressure won't give you a good indication of response...

Post them up in the 'For Sale' section then like anyone else would have...

"OEM Quality" Gotta love ebay. lol.

Have you ever run the GTX3071? Fan or not they are an impressive turbo in my book. I made great power with it, it handled all the track work I threw at it, was quite responsive, even with the 1.06 Tial rear... What more would I want from a $900 turbo that bolts straight in to my setup? I am not a fan of Precision's ceramic bearings, after having seen a few failures on customer cars. BW refuse to make a turbo that is compact enough. Looks like I will have to stick with old faithful Garrett. I'm sure I could do much worse.

Why do you waste our time Frank?

If you drop past I can plug the laptop in for you, but at a guess the transmission overheated causing it to drop into limp mode. Might be time for a trans cooler...

If the sprockets are empty you won't hear anything, they just won't advance. The tensioners being empty, that is a different story. The main tensioner has a ratchet mechanism to stop it backing off, but the two smaller chains at the top don't have this. If you're not running a 10w40 I would suggest that first, as thinner oil will bleed down much easier. As I said though, any path for the oil to get back to the sump could be an issue, I would be trying a different brand of oil filter first, just in case. If it still rattles, I would suspect the top tensioner on one side is worn, but I think it's an engine out job. They are mounted in a stupid spot.

You put Bendix pads on a Brembo setup? Sacrilege...

I have seen plenty of FJ20's and bluebirds built by Gibson back in the day, all are running stock gear as far as I know, and still being tracked on high boost and e85/sunco. Is your tuner sure it won't cut it? Sorry the pictures don't show much, you may have been able to get some ideas...

^this. I'm over the GTX3076, swapping back to the 71 again. If the whale was manual it would be a different story I suspect. Don't go too big for a road car, you will be kicking yourself.

It's probably the same PFC being handed around over the years with similar problems on every owners cars. My suggestion is to lash out a few hundred extra on the Adaptronic, or Haltech/Link if you have the coin. PFC is old tech.

Euro 4/5 cats aren't that expensive, much cheaper than another emissions test down here...

The auto is in limp mode, not much you can do without getting a Consult onto it to find out the fault code. Where are you located?

Just pay the strut doc $80 and he will come and gas them onsite. Best $80 I ever spent.

Due to having a PFC you can't have the system diagnosed with a consult unit, so you are stuck diagnosing it manually. Not much we can do from here. If with the stock ecu everything is working, I can't see it being an external sensor fault... It is inside the PFC.

You can check them by unplugging the blue plug in front of the rocker cover. There are so many little bleed points in the oil system, and all need to pump up with oil on startup. My engine doesn't rattle, so what part is actually worn in yours to cause it do you think? There are hundreds of parts that could cause chain rattle type noise. Why pick on that particular one before even opening the engine?

Fair enough, they are exactly the same Bosch ev14 injector though. ID is a US brand, just like Xspurt is here... You just pay more for shipping with the ID's.