scotty nm35

FYP.

Exhaust manifold gasket could be stuffed, or the T3 flange warped. They can squeal like a stuck pig on boost when the manifold pressure rises... Try the boost leaks first, and check for shaft play on the turbo while you are there.

The easiest is a whole car swap. What about a cable throttle VQ30det swap? At least you can Nistune the earlier engines. And it has already been done in NZ with a 6 speed.

Not with my dump pipes anyway.

Sounds like you haven't bed the front pads in correctly. I had nice front bias with the sumitomo's, running the factory master and stock rear callipers. I have now too much rear running the Brembos. You can change the bias using pad compound to some extent I found.

Get it on a hoist, drop the shock and make sure it can still move longer than it is when bolted. If it extends past the mount at full spring travel you should be fine.

The starter motor is on the other side I am fairly sure, you would have to compare the two to see if the 3.5 sump might be able to be used? Running the manual V35 3.5L engine, ecu's, bcm, relay box etc and wiring loom would be a must I think, and a great can of worms. Hopefully the chassis is similar enough, otherwise nothing might fit. The AWD stagea chassis is completely different to the V35 chassis...

I use a (knock off) Consult3 to diagnose, it's the only way to read all ecu's. There are other options, like the Osirus cable, but they only talk to the engine afaik. I have used a Snapon scan tool with some success, but it needs to have the Japanese software loaded. You can reset the ecu to some extent using the manual method, but I can't guarantee it will reset the long term fuel trims. Disconnecting the battery won't help. I hope they didn't damage the sensor, it's quite tight up there... Perhaps try a new one if the code returns?

Possibly, but you will find many differences between the two engines...

There is no cat warning light. Good chance it is the ecu going into lean limp mode. The ecu should have been reset after such a serious mod, now it needs to be reset so it learns the new fuel requirements. You can't just use an obd2 reader, none of them connect. Our car isn't obd2 compliant.

I have 6 inch stainless here, if you want to be able to stick your head up there.

Hire a mig, same feeling just heaps cheaper.

Why would Shannons not cover you? They are by far the best option, but you need to prove you are an enthusiast.

Trent and I are both talking about VCT or CVVT on the 26 head, there are a few options available, including making it work yourself. CVVT on my VQ25 is good for 800rpm better response, or the equivalent of running a VQ30. Incorporating it into a 26/30 would perhaps make the ultimate RB.

They didn't drop it? Fair enough. It's easier to simply blame something than find a restriction... Blame the dyno too, why not...

Can you take a picture of both? One will be euro T3 split. Have you tried Kyle?

We won't see any discounts from the government, the main aim of compliancing is to enable imported cars to meet our stupid Australian Design rules, like the Japanese don't know how to design cars properly...

If you can drop past Hampton Park I could plug the Consult3 into it... Hopefully the PFC will communicate the way Nissan designed the stock engine ecu to, the rest of the computers should be fine to diagnose.

Not required after tuning, as the 'shunt' can be tuned out. I have seen a 2-3 psi gain at standard boost on customer M35's, I would hate to know how much I would lose on high boost.

Hope they don't ripsss you a new one, hey boiiii. I would still suggest you learn what VCT is, whatever the engine you end up building.

You will need to drop the exhaust and see what the problem is. Perhaps the idol will fall out when you shake it, or perhaps it will be the turbine wheel...

The further forward you mount it the more clearance you will have for the 4 inch dump. If you can bring it forward enough to clear the shock tower with the hot pipe you will be doing very well. Of course this means a custom manifold, which is a lot of work.

I agree, you shouldn't modify anything unless you have to... Otherwise you need to retune for it.

^^ this. Or Vcam...

Ours is much the same as the V35 rear, just higher springs. Seriously, you can't go past the BC's for replacement shocks.