scotty nm35

Quite often I have had to use multiple 1mm restrictors on single setups, it's common to overfeed the bearings/journals with oil and force it out the seals, especially if the drain is compromised. Grab some 34 restrictors and try them, as the 32 doesn't run them i'm pretty sure, but understand journal turbo's need a lot more oil supply than BB cores, you might have to drill the restrictors out a bit if they are journal bearing cores. If you can lower the pressure externally as XGTRX mentioned it might be a lot easier than mucking around with the feed to the turbos.

Unfortunately if some of us posted our first hand experiences this thread would be quickly locked. Turbo's at that power level can go bang out of the box, and rarely is there any warranty when they do. 600 is a lot of kw, are you sure you need that much? If you didn't want to pay a large lag penalty I know the GTX35 will fit in the same spot, and should flow another 100 odd if you lean on it with the right mods...

$370 delivered?

I don't know if you have read some of my older posts on the subject but a high stall doesn't work well on these RE5's anyway, the converter is always trying to lock under load in manual mode, and it can't lock up a 1200+ rev discrepancy at 300+, I know this first hand. You would need to completely disconnect the converter lockup which further wastes precious power and fuel, unless you can take standalone control of the auto...

There are quite a few graphs from back in the day. Might be worth a read if you haven't gone through it. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/52540-stagea-dyno-results/page-27

This was the GTX3076, can't really find any others on my new computer.

This can be easily fudged unfortunately, but you have a better chance it's genuine than most. Maintenance as always is to drop all fluids on arrival, and change all filters.

He looked at the dash Ben, confirmed.

30kw gain with a lag penalty. The torque was through the roof though. I have since realised the torque gains with the external gate and larger housings is worth more than any dyno can show. At least my gearbox is happy now. (Edit, remember the GT3071 is a cropped rear wheel compared to the 60mm GTX turbine.)

A wideband won't tell you if one in six is slightly blocked.

If the K's are genuine they should be fine, most aren't though. Every Stagea/V series I have on the hoist needs rear diff bushes, and compression bushes.

Work perfectly till you lean out and melt pistons. It's your call, but Bosch don't put a sticker saying 'not for liquid fuels' on the bag for no reason.

I can fit more biches in my Stagea. Just sayn...

It's all about matching the stall converter and turbo, I have no idea where Tao got the idea we all want 300kw on petrol. 250 would be a more realistic figure without going to a 3k stally.

So they fit in Matt? I saw they were longer and would require cutting compared to the Walbro. Did you run a direct power feed? I doubt the Raceworks/Proflow/Chinese e85 pumps will like the low voltage on idle/cruise for long.

The 2000's are a natural gas injector, not recommended for any liquid fuels. Like Trent said the stainless 1700's are the go these days if you can afford the $200 odd per injector. Had no issues with the much cheaper 1400cc stainless Delphi's either, but some tuners have issues setting them up.

Realistically any air valve will do the job, it's not like they are under high demand, nor do they need to flow high volumes of air. If you are running an internal gate then any 3 port valve should do the job. Have you had a look on Ebay? There are usually many MAC valves on there cheap, but most are in the US as you say. Most air fitting/supply shops will have them, or can get them in, but you will likely pay twice as much locally, or 4 times as much for rebranded Turbosmart style valves.

Oil and plugs, air filter, just the usual. I usually replace all fluids when I buy an import, as the K's are so unlikely to be correct anyway. At least that way I can keep track of when they were all done, and fill with good synthetics. If you haven't changed the pollen filter, do that, they are usually disgusting after 100,000.

Have you popped the bung out of the battery compartment yet? Commonly the issue with auto trans codes. The pressure switch is a common Attessa code, but I can't source the switches, you will need to buy a complete Attessa pressure pack to clear that one for good. Sounds like you may have air in the steering rack, try getting on some gravel and turning slowly from lock to lock and see if it goes away, if you haven't changed the PS fluid, its a good opportunity to do that too.

11mm rail with adapters? Fake Sard reg? There are better ways to convert to top feed using a 14mm rail and shorter half height injectors.

Hang on, you said Manual box, is that correct? If so just use the recommended grade of gear oil, nothing special with teflon or anything, it will ruin the synchros.

The Stagea SS2 you produce has been butchered to the extent it now overboosts as you well know, the last 4 I have fitted won't run less than 25-30psi, (uncontrolled boost) even with the wastegate opened up to the max and running a 7 psi actuator. I won't be recommending it to anyone until you fix this issue and this time you can't wipe your hands of the problem. Shoving GT35 sized turbine wheels in only makes them laggier (like I said it would, obviously), and without an expensive high stall converter these Stagea owners are going backwards. Still completely disappointed with my Stagea's old design SS2, the noises it makes sound worse than a blown stock turbo. Not something I expected for one of your best customers personal cars. The ATP turbo that Alex mentioned above has zero shaft play after 6 years running 30psi, and I didn't even drill the sump banjos back then. An SS2 would have blown up in 50km with that oil flow, as 4 or 5 did before I found the restricted banjo bolts. Why is it that your turbo's need 10 times the oil supply, and if they don't get it it's somehow our fault, like we designed the oil system ourselves. You designed the turbo to suit our car, if it doesn't work, surely the onus should be on you to sort it out, not throw any assumed warranty out the window?

You talking about my intake Johnny? Greg made 400kw through one in his auto, safe to say it will flow 450 odd. It's not like your turbo has a 4 inch compressor.

You should have gone external gate from the start, I have made 430+ on the stock exhaust manifold a few times now externally gated off the housing. You could always run twin gates seeing that internal one won't open anyway.

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.shtml Consult is an old plug interface, for older model cars. The M35 uses an obd2 plug but is not obd2 compliant, so you need the Consult 3 hardware Nissan use to read it properly.