scotty nm35

Can you post a picture of both plugs? I can pick a set up for you tomorrow when I head to the the injector wholesaler if you like. Do you just want to cut the loom, or run a plug in adapter?

Metho, ethanol or contact cleaner will work, you should have no trouble finding contact cleaner an any auto parts store. Make sure you get replacement tank Orings from Nissan. What computer did he replace, the engine ecu or the body control module?

Correct, 33 GTR.

Have they changed the battery and checked the connections? Sounds like a voltage issue to me, unless they have introduced a fault trying to fix the sender. The senders in the fuel tank may be dirty, you can clean these with contact cleaner, sometimes comes good. There is a float sender in both sides of the tank to measure fuel level which then goes to the BCM I think.

With the filter and lid dropped it made 20kw more, so there is a little in it with a good twin pod setup. (as long as they get cold air) We don't get much of an option down here, the customer wanted it to look factory if he was pulled over, so it was a great result for him.

There is a bit of info and a few graphs up on here recently if you have a search. I helped with a 500kw twin GTX combo running factory airbox, manifolds and cooler/piping, so there is definitely more to be made if you don't mind a defect.

More likely the boost gauge is shagged from the factory if it's a cheapie, I bought one that read 4psi lower than actual. Have you done a pressure test on the intake? I live local if you want to borrow my 3 inch intake plug, and simply cram 20psi into the rubber intake. If there is a leak the AFM won't know about it.

Should have left the head stock for improved gas speed imo. Aftermarket 80mm throttle? lol. Anyway, isn't this in the big boys section? The NA+T's are usually relegated to the NA section... Like the 10,000 other threads just like this.

You sold a perfectly good car because your Nissan mechanic couldn't change a spark plug. Don't take it out on everyone else that owns a DD, they are a great engine if serviced correctly, and very efficient if you drive them easy. Injector failures aren't common, there are plenty of high K example DD's running about that haven't failed. Using low grade fuel in them would carbon up the injector nozzle, as it is inside the chamber. I sold a set of S/H injectors to a guy in Malaysia fairly cheap not long ago. I am sure I can get aftermarket injectors from my wholesaler too, if the stock ones can't be cleaned. Just because Nissan want to ream you on price doesn't mean you should pay their stupid prices. There is no way I will be giving them another cent after the poor service and attitude I have copped for buying an import.

It's not hard to adjust the spring preload and lower leg height to stock in most cases, certainly on the M35 Stagea front coilovers, the rear springs I had to make a spring perch spacer.

You would be able to run stock height if you set them up like that Mike.

If you don't damage the gaskets you don't need to replace anything. They are steel gaskets, I usually spray a bit of Hylomar on them just incase on re-assembly. It's a prick of a job, very messy and at least 10 hours work to do properly.

So you only did the cover? You need to do the lower runners, the cover will make fark all difference. Don't bother with the 3bond, it is like pissing in the wind. Just remove the parts, and soak them in degreaser, then use tooth brushes or whatever you can to clean the runners. I used a scourer on a metal rod but whatever works for you. The ports on the head are the hard part to clean, you need to make sure the valves aren't open on the ports and clean them out thoroughly before rotating the crank, or starting the engine. I use a large syringe to suck the cruddy degreaser out usually, but you will need a few of them...

You have a different engine though, don't you. Your cams are hydraulically actuated not an electronically controlled clutch like the VQ25. Also, the VQ35 doesn't have a high pressure fuel pump hanging off the exhaust cam. Perhaps our average temperatures are higher than Japan? I know they suggest a few grades depending on average local temps. Or perhaps it's just from doing 100's of services on VQ25's and simply learning what feels best for them here, with the least valve train noise. Only offering my wisdom here as usual Greg, your choice if you listen or not.

There is one on my Axis wreck Sunny...

True. I realised that just after I posted, but they are rare enough here too.

No.

You actually think there is any difference between an Xforce and Magnaflow muffler (or most other brands) internally Terry? No point blaming the brand imo, just the design and size. An offset muffler is going to do a better job of dropping decibels than a straight through.

Angle grinder. Or just replace your old flogged suspension with BC's, great value for money imo.

E85 is no more responsive than 98 from my experience. It can allow you to run a smaller turbo for more power with better response though, if that's what you mean...

Sounds like the hose is old and loose, or you have replaced it with a hose that is too large. A cable tie is usually more than enough to hold a vac hose tight. If you replace any hoses, make sure it isn't the hose with the restrictor in it leading to the stock solenoid (if you are still using it), as otherwise your boost will skyrocket.

Considering the RWD M35's aren't allowed into the country in Australia, I doubt there would be much info floating about. I would say it's very close in most aspects to the G35 in the states. What info were you after exactly Garry?

Agreed, the bigger the muffler body, the better the sound absorption. Should have gone for an oval Xforce or Varex at a minimum. Resonators do fark all from my experience, mid mufflers are required, and the 4 inch thick Magnaflow offset muffler fits in there nicely with plenty of clearance. The Japs are pretty good with their exhaust design, and if you find the right system such as the Fujitsubo Jasma exhaust, it will flow well and possibly pass a noise test. You need to watch for restriction pipes in the rear muffler on some systems as it's cheaper than simply designing a good muffler.

Sounds like it has the wrong oil grade in it, I have heard it many times with thin oils the mechs try and use, as Commos use 5w30 just fine. If you drop the oil and put a decent 10w40 like it should have, the noise may just go away. Cam sensors are around $150- $200 from Nissan. I have had to replace many of these sensors over the years, some just die, some keep throwing faults occasionally. Make sure you change the right one... Or both. At least you can do those yourself and rule out the basics. Anything else may require you to take it to a competent mechanic. Parallel problem with stupid people making up stupid comparisons Chris. There is either a faulty part/parts which may need replacing, or the problem is otherwise an easy fix. I have cheaply repaired many of these 'cam chain' faults when their previous mech has usually suggested the chains are stretched, and it will cost 5k plus to repair apparently.(not a bad quote considering they haven't usually looked inside the engine at all, and probably have no idea what a VQ chain assembly looks like.) I have never seen a 'stretched' chain on any motor, not to say it can't happen with a high Km poorly serviced engine. It is more likely either a chain tensioner or guide, the EVCT actuator, a faulty cam sensor or simply the wrong grade of oil. It can be hard to repair if you can't find a decent mech with VQ experience though, as most will charge you through the nose to diagnose the fault and learn the engine. Ditch the car? Best advice I have heard for repairs yet. Thanks for helping mate.

Most mechs have their own way of bleeding, and won't let the car go until it runs fine on the test drive. They know the outcome if a dozy driver doesn't check the temp gauge on the way home, and changing head gaskets on these VQ's is a pain in the arse. If you have issues, (and you shouldn't usually unless something fails) then you just need to take your time with re-filling the coolant. I have had some engines take hours to bleed, and others fill fine. The coolant mod definitely helps with filling, as it allows all the trapped air to evacuate the block quickly. I rarely need to re-bleed my car these days when refilling, as the overflow reservoir works as it should to top up the radiator. You can usually hear when there is air in the system, as the heater lines make a waterfall noise behind the dash, and the heater may not blow hot, meaning there is an airlock. It will usually overheat within 1 or 2km if the airlock is bad enough. Shame Nissan designed such a poor cooling system, but our turbo Stagea is worse than most VQ's, due to the turbo lines boiling the coolant in the turbo core when hot, especially when you turn the engine off after a thrashing. There doesn't seem to be a good path for the air bubbles to make their way back to the radiator. Added to the fact the block isn't cooled directly and the only coolant path is out one small hole in the back of each head, it definitely isn't up to the task of cooling any more than stock power levels.