scotty nm35

Good chance it's just a faulty cam sensor if the engine is running fine, You would expect to have some noise if the chain is stretched, or a guide broken.

Sometimes you can even smell raw fuel in the coolant, that will tell you combustion pressure is pushing into the coolant. Very common these days with floating bore engines like the VQ. As Jared said, Chemiweld is for emergencies only, it won't repair a blown head gasket and is impossible to remove by flushing. It will just block your radiator and water galleries. A simple carbon test will most likely answer your questions.

I haven't sold any for a while, but I think I still have enough parts here for another kit. It works pretty well from my last Sandown track experience, I lost over a litre out the overflow and the car still managed to stay cool on the way home.

With the heater on, there is coolant rushing through the bleeder pipe, it causes bubbles of air to fill the system and can take ages to release defeating the purpose of the bleed. Like I said, the final top up needs to be done with the car cold preferably, and the heater off. It might need to be done multiple times over a few days.

Pretty easy to test a thermostat, although I have never seen an oem one fail before. It won't open with water from the kettle though, it needs to be on the boil in a pot on the stove. Most likely it just needs a good bleed, which can only be done cold and with the heater off from my experience. One cup of coolant missing is enough to airlock the stock system, which is why I designed my cooling mod for the block. Have a search, there are plenty of threads outlining the issues and how to bleed the system properly.

Pretty sad, they think you should be grateful they even worked on your car. Glad you got the idle re-learn sorted anyway, and didn't have to spend $1000's for a simple throttle reprogramming.

A nutsert might do it, but the hole looks pretty buggered.

I would be taking the car to a mechanic first, just to fix the issues you have currently, then re-evaluate if you want to head down the modification path, after reading and understanding the hundreds of threads discussing exactly what you plan to do to your car. Secondly, turn the boost down.

Any aftermarket injector is "universal" the closest you would get is the above 35GTR injector. I can't supply 550's within your budget, but perhaps only a little more might get you a set of new Xspurt 550's. They would drop in but have a different plug. You can either solder a new plug on your injector loom or I can also supply plug adapters (so no wire cutting is required.) PM me if you want a price and I can ask the wholesaler for their best quote.

A thin shaft spinning at 150,000 revs at high temp, with force applied to both ends, as surge kicks in the shaft would have to contend with massive vibration. It's common sense you would try and minimise it for the turbo's sake. BOV's leaking is a lame reason imo, there are plenty of aftermarket bov's that have provision for heavy springs and seal perfectly, although I understand feathering the throttle would work a bov fairly hard, you may want to try an adjustable one and fine tune it to your preference. If a turbo fails within a very short time, good chance the oil supply was an issue. I have seen it many times, and Garrett would know this all too well. It's why they refuse to warrant their product in most cases. Soft limits can kill a turbo quickly, especially if you are hitting it regularly. Not much you can do about this, other than raise the limiter I guess. Perhaps speaking to the tuner about it can't hurt? Mine hits 45psi on the soft limiter going down the straight, as sometimes the auto doesn't shift in time. The 45mm wastegate just can't keep up. My GTX has taken plenty of abuse over the last few years, as did the last one I sold. 30psi+ daily, hundreds of dyno runs and quite a few track days. You can't blame Garrett cores, they are well built, designed and heavily tested, which is more than I can say for Kandos or most other brands for that matter. It's just easier to blame the turbo I guess, than find a tricky issue that arises at full throttle. Race teams can spend massive amounts sorting these kinds of problems to make their cars reliable. Hopefully you sort it out anyway Simon.

A set of tyres is worth much more than a couple of front bearings. While those tyres look ok, I would swap them with a known good set if you can, just to rule them out.

I can supply Oring kits for side feeds from the wholesaler, I think they were around $10 an injector last I checked. Not sure if they are OEM, but why would it matter? Nissan didn't make the Orings anyway, and rubber fuel seals have come a long way since the RB was made. I just found out they can supply 550cc side feeds too, probably the same as Nismo's at a guess.

Whatever brand you use, just make sure the catalytic is welded to the body, some do, some don't. Other than that, there is little difference in flow if the cell and body size is similar.

Nistune won't help much with economy over an Emanage Ultimate, as leaning out cruise mixtures slightly isn't going to save you bucket loads of fuel. Keep the car stock if you want good economy, or buy something lighter than 2 ton and without a low compression engine.

Yes Adam, how much of the door do you want though? Give me a call if you like on 0408 993 893. I will try and check it's condition today mate. Looks like I will need to buy a car cover to keep the rain out...

It's coming along nicely. You could send me the throttle if you needed a tight alloy bend welded to it, but surely there is a fabricator locally you could take it to? I rarely cut holes in the body for cooler pipes anymore as cars are defected for much less down here. 2.5 inch piping will be fine for that power level, unless you want the 3 inch chunky look.

I have them, but not sure how easily they will part from the doors. I don't want to scratch or peel the doors up on removal...

I wouldn't be leaving the oil much longer than that, these engines are easily damaged by long service intervals with low quality oils.

Looks to me like the shock was installed too short, and has dropped hard, ripping the stud out. Can you get to the top of that stud?

650 + or - 50rpm I think. You can't go by the dash, it can be miles out.

Of course Dave, nicer than yours though as he has a better turbo.

Looks good Johnny. I don't know about inoffensive though. The gate stands out a little too much imo, it just needs to be camouflaged or hidden under something stock looking. Shame there is no room under the turbo...

The rear suspension isn't coilover, is it the coil or shock you are talking about? Take a pic if possible.

My latest graph, externally gated GTX3076 with a .82 Tial copy rear. I realise the Ecvvt on the VQ25det probably brings it on a little earlier than the equivalent RB, but there wouldn't be much in it... You can see in the graph the ramp differences, due to the electronic throttle and auto, Trent was having issues giving it full throttle due to the auto kicking down. If I can get a GTX3076 ramping like that, you should be able to get close to similar results... Disco, I have seen 500kw through a cotton panel filter, if there is a restriction it's in the snorkle, not the airbox.

Nope, Neither wreck came with one. Which strip are you after? Can you take a pic?