scotty nm35

Sounds like the Walbro isn't installed correctly, you might want to get it lower in the tank...

I went to Edge to see your car run up, now I know why you didn't show. Sounds like you went to the wrong fabricator, no-one feels sorry for you now.

Needs moar turbo. My stock 2.5L Stagea did that on factory boost, at all 4, with an auto.

Might have something to do with it... I would say the wheel speed sensor or teeth are damaged. Have you had a close look at the teeth?

Hey Leroy, you still getting tuned today?

They are just standard H1's I think. Have you checked the bulbs and plugs? The switch beside the headlight height adjuster switches between them and the low beam in the headlight.

You have a stock stainless system? Must be rare, I have never seen one on a Stagea before. If it is a Jap system it won't be 2.5 inch, they only use metric tube. V8 Soarers have stock stainless, as did the Golf I worked on the other week. Not many manufacturers use it due to their bean counters.

More boost should fix that.

Put the stock wheels on and see if the problem goes away. It is most probably wheel speed sensor related, might be worth changing them over from a known good set just to fault find if the stock wheels don't fix it.

Fair enough, but I don't think a stock RB neo rail would stand out much.

Be careful, there are many fakes getting about. Still much cheaper to grab a top feed rail. It's not hard to fit either. Just get them to do it before it goes on the dyno. Has anyone tried the 34neo rail yet? I think a few are running them, might be worth looking into.

Because a computer can see a boost leak.

I can have a look if you want, I'm in Hampton Park, not far from Braeside.

22's = more efficient tyres. Just ask the tyre joint for some. Sounds like you need to remove the stupid mods and get someone to look at the car. Have you checked for boost leaks?

I am guessing you have a pod filter and plenty of other similarly useless mods?

I think the issue he was mentioning is with VCT off it fudges the figures a fair bit. You can't say a certain set of cams is no good just because it din't work on your particular setup. I am of the opinion the stock cams are usually the best option anyway... Upgrading cams is the last thing I would suggest, and only on well sorted high power setups. More important is keeping the gas speeds up.

Yep, look up what a Siamese merge is, it's just a small slit between the two pipes, barely affects flow, but causes each pulse to create vac in the other pipe. Take some inspiration from the merge collectors on Burns Stainless site, they are some of the best I have seen. Don't use Hooker mufflers, they have restrictors in them to quieten the exhaust volume. I gained 30kw changing to a Varex, both running 3.5 inch. Any straight through absorption muffler should be fine, the quality decides how long it lasts.

If you can install a Walbro 460L into the tank you could bump the fuel pressure up enough to get you there I think.

Agreed, 6boost actually makes this into his T3 flange design to improve the gas speed into the turbo, apparently keeps the response loss to a minimum. It's still a much larger opening than the nozzle of the turbo, so it won't be much of a restriction.

Back pressure is a bit of a crock, it hurts power production on any setup. On a turbo the rear housing is already a restriction causing back pressure, go too small and you lose top end flow and engine torque. On an NA a restriction should be built into the merge collector imo, not in a reduced exhaust size for the entire exhaust length. The worst idea I have seen is those X pipes some of the V8 guys use, which apparently help with creating vacuum before the X for a reduced flow. Siamese merge pipes are much better design imo as they don't harm exhaust flow.

It won't stuff the Attessa pump if the rolling diameters are the same, you won't even notice it most of the time, as the car is in rwd for a majority of the drive. You might see some vibration occasionally going around corners, or accelerating down hills. I have seen it myself. It shouldn't be a big deal, and worst case you wear the transfer clutches out eventually. I like how they sit on the car, looks good Dane. Need Akebono 355mm brakes now to fill them.

Because highflowed injectors usually have a shitty spray pattern, and they can cause idle issues, especially in the higher volume injectors. A flow test doesn't show the quality of the nozzle, or if the body of the injector is second hand as Mike mentioned. You are better off changing to a top feed rail and shoving Bosch ev14 injectors in there imo. Cheaper, faster, better spray pattern, and no issues with ethanol if you decide to upgrade. There is a good reason people recommend them.

Nothing a die grinder won't fix.

Trent tuning it? He usually asks for new coils, either Splitfire or OEM, just so you don't waste his time. You should get that alloy intake today, I shipped it yesterday morning.

^ That's the main hassle with injectors from the US, the warranty is next to useless. Plus local injectors work out cheaper after shipping is taken into account.