scotty nm35

GTR injectors are 11mm, and r34 neo injectors are 14mm, so they won't fit into the rail without some mods. Why don't you buy new? 14mm injectors aren't expensive these days, and won't give you issues like second hand ones. Otherwise I would suggest flow testing them and replacing the Orings/filter before tuning on them. I can get most injectors very cheap if you want me to get you some prices...

Cmon Rudi, hack it up and put bonnet vents, or a big scoop.

Perhaps the stock pump had failed, no surprise there... I know for a fact the Walbro's can cause poor running like this if running low voltage. Most aftermarket pumps can have similar issues. I have had many customers buying them off me and telling me they are shit and wanting their money back, even after I explain they need full 14v. It's probably half the reason they got such a bad name. The twin 255's are running fine in my car 5 years later, with constant e85 use.

If you like I could get the Makita cordless out and drill your stock injectors for you, no need to get them from the US...

Fun job hey Lindsay. How did you go with the head ports?

Because race car.

I doubt it, mine is r200 also I think, the breather is in a prick of a spot. If it has a hose on it already you might be able to extend it... The M35's had hoses on some, and little breather caps on others. Not sure why the differences.

You only need to drop the diff, not the whole subframe. Better get on NS and have a look, what do us guys know of race cars such as yours...

Walbro's don't like the low power the factory pump controller puts out at idle and cruise. Was it a 255 you installed? I gave you a simple answer to your dilemma, now go wire a relay in and let us know how it runs afterwards.

Why would you drop the subframe? Fair enough... I wouldn't be concerned either, it's only a 180.

Just keep telling yourself that. It will last longer with less oil to get in the way and wear the gears...

Common issue with Subaru's, I have made a few diff adapters to stick a hose on them, to relocate the breather higher. Works well.

Most likely this is your problem, at least it's an easy fault to remedy. There is a 'how to' in the tutorial section for running the direct power feed. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/91993-fuel-pump-direct-feed-rewire/page-15

He usually likes having the customer there, just incase something goes wrong, or he needs to discuss something. Other times he is too busy and wants the car left for a few days. Stuffed if I would be catching a train home from there. lol.

I would be leaning towards the crank angle sensor or fuel pump. Has the pump been replaced with an aftermarket? If so did you run power from the battery through a relay and fuse?

How the hell did you get on to him? Hard man to pin down these days. At least the tune should be good. I would offer to help but I have the kids to look after.

Yep, mine was cutting out for 4 seconds randomly, probably once a day. It did get worse before I changed the crank sensor which fixed it. Sometimes just cleaning the crud off the sensor will help, the starter shaves off little pieces of metal from the ring gear which magnetize to the sensor, limiting it's ability to pick up the flywheel disk. The sensor is between the engine and bell housing so it's easy enough to clean and replace. Try that before you buy a new one Rich.

Agreed, sounds like cam or crank sensor. No engine light? If the light isn't up there are no CEL codes to retrieve, which means you may be on your own with diagnosis.

I will probably be keeping the 3.5 system I have on the car now, which means the twin tip Nismo might be up for grabs... Are you after a cat back, or complete exhaust?

If the AFR's are low, say 10:1 or less, the coils may not be powerful enough to ignite the mixture. Do you have a wideband in the exhaust?

Ah, that's where the confusion lies. No worries.

The stock bov vents a little boost back to the intake, so put that back on and see if it gets better. bypass the boost controller and see if it runs better off wastegate pressure only.

Take it all off? Understand, each one of those mods has changed the boost level and tune in some way, did you gap the plugs down at least? Search for R+R, it is the ecu protecting itself from stupidity.

It's the single din stock gauges, with two others beside it.

I still have a pair of silver mirrors here, no-one has contacted me to buy them... Stagea is the same as V35 with regards to doors. The mirrors I have here also have the indicator covers clipped over them, so you may want a pair. Or just pay $$$ for shipping from the US.