scotty nm35

Those Nismo plugs are a 7 heatrange, no point getting those when the LFR7's are half the price. Gap doesn't matter in this case, as they will still work at 4mm gap thanks to our coils.

Nissan service department didn't have a Consult 3? I don't believe that for a second. Some other readers will work for engine diagnosis, not many will talk to all 8 ecu's. I have one in Hampton Park, SE Melbourne, Victoria.

My 255 twins are still going strong 6 years on in the Stagea, I guess I have proven they are long term safe.

It's in some kind of limp mode if the boost drops, either overboosting, knocking or similar I suspect. You can bypass it like Matt mentioned for 14psi constantly, it will likely work better than your EBC, especially if you try and run more boost than stock.

Looks good to me, PS fluid can't really be too cold, it works fine when you first drive the car in the morning.

If anything is going to stop it going bang, e85 is it. I don't understand why so many of you guys are still using that petrol crap. I understand it can be hard to find in the country but a little proactive email campaign to United would have a pump fitted in no time I suspect. We need an ethanol lobbying group setup as the rollout seems to have stalled due to base stock prices skyrocketing. As Johnny mentioned, your head studs will be the issue with that much cylinder pressure.

I was under the impression the two flashing codes are for the engine. Anyway, trying to diagnose and fix a trans using flashing lights will end in tears. Get it on a consult 3 and find out the actual codes then post them up. I have seen most of them occurring before.

Oscilloscopes measure Voltage not energy? I would be very surprised if it would read the secondary output current accurately without blowing up, no matter how it was measured. Sounds like hearsay to me, I want to see the youtube clip.

Also came out 5 speed so I am told, I apparently have one in my workshop.

Gears and stuff, with magical red liquid.

What model gearbox? I have a 4 speed 34 auto and a 5 speed 33 auto here somewhere, not sure if it they have dipsticks though.

None of those mods should be required for 200 wasps, just tune it and save for the inevitable turbo swap. The Walbro 400L pump is not a great option, either go the e85 one, which is way overkill, or stick to the 255 I would recommend. Even the stock pump should flow that easily. Pretty sure the stock AFM will be fine, as would the intercooler if you were willing to try and push it's limits. If you want reliability, stick a highflow turbo in, the stock one will let you down eventually.

Sounds good Dale, get it on the dyno then mate, we want to see results.

Sounds like a coil isn't plugged in properly Luis.

Yaris or VQ coils work exceptionally well, 40+ psi no problem.

Some VQ's run shimless Peter, you need to order a different bucket if the clearance is out. Sounds like hard work to me.

Probably got disconnected at compliance, I have seen them on quite a few cars, sometimes in the back too.

Yes, stock FPR and filter assembly intank is good for 300+ on e85, probably 400+ on petrol. I guess Alex forgot to mention he is on e85.

Something tells me the torque you are putting to the ground will smash a manual box in no time Greg, so factor in a PPG gearset also.

^ This. Although you have to remember, the auto is then built for decent power and every bearing and seal has been replaced, and the stall converter is matched to your turbo. If you wanted that sort of power through a manual you would need a decent twin plate clutch which can ruin the drivability, then you still have an old gearbox with worn bearings unless you get the manual rebuilt beforehand.

It's not used for tuning so wait till it dies, it's only checking the cat is still there.

Obviously the rarity is pushing prices up, it's to be expected. I will likely have my whole Fcon setup for sale soon, map and intake air temp sensor, loom, ecu etc.

You need to understand how a BOV works, there is equal pressure on both sides of the piston under boost, so theoretically any spring should hold boost without opening. If you don't want the shudder, put the stock BOV back on, or tune the car to get rid of the hesitation. Any modification from stock will take the ecu out of it's normal operating conditions and ruin the drivability to some extent, you usually go backwards unless the engine is tuned to compensate, especially with boost.

It's likely in limp mode then. Get it scanned and take it back to them? Which stall converter did you use?

Nathan is most likely correct, I just replaced a squeaking rear link the other day. The only way to find it is to take the wheel off and look as you move things around.