scotty nm35

It would only be over 16v for a short time, otherwise you will have other cooling issues. Needs to be load controlled, not continuous.

It's usually lean idle that makes the revs fluctuate, as long as there are no vac leaks of course. Ask Trent on facebook, he would be the best person to advise you. Smoke testing is a very hit and miss way of finding leaks, just pressure test the whole system to 30psi, then you will see how many leaks you actually have.

Why stop at 16v. Lean on that sucker hard.

I don't mind the sound, I just hate the fact it dumps precious fuel down the exhaust every time it TuTu's.

Have a look at the front suspension, notice the strut isn't actually a part of the front end geometry or hub like the 33/34 skyline, it just provides downforce through the lower bush. Hence why the strutbrace makes no difference. If you want to tighten the front end you need to brace the compression arm as Nissan did with the series 2 V35's (Dale's brace or OX motorsport), and use the Superpro poly compression bush.

The dump is the restriction, the rest of the exhaust may flow fairly well for all I know, although the mid muffler has a restrictor at it's entry. Fujitsubo Legalis R isn't droney, and comes in right on 90dB as tested locally.

No-one will spend the time and money on development of a daughter board, but there is another simple option. Just get the Nismo flash off it's processor and dump it into a stock one. Theoretically the Consult 3 can do it, but I am yet to try.

Putting a name to the noise like pinging will lead everyone down the garden path I suspect. What engine is in the car? What fuel do you run? What grade of oil is in the engine? Have you tried disconnecting the cam solenoids to see if it's them causing the noise?

No you can't. How do you know it needs an update? Take it to Nissan, they could tell you I suspect, if they want to.

With codes like that popping up, I can't see how they would think the trans isn't a problem, but anyway, the cam actuation can be easily seen on the Consult3 unit, you can set a desired degree advance and see if it goes there and remains stable. If the solenoids are leaking for the cams they could be dropping out, but that would throw a code. The cams have nothing much to do with the gearbox faults. So you either have a few issues to fix, or they are working on the wrong end. If the car was in limp mode due to the gearbox, it may stop the cams actuating as a part of it's limp mode.

$800 US, what's that in downunder dollars, I can't count that high on two hands... For that coin you should be looking at a PWM controlled fuelab pump/reg combo or similar imo.

More what? They flow 100LPH less than the 460L Walbro does at least, model dependant. The Veyron needs 4 of these Pierburg's I believe.

The brand is Pierburg, they are a nice pump, the only one that will suck fuel up a hose from the bottom of a tank so they have their uses, but installing them is hard in most setups. 750L per minute seems a little optimistic though. There are two types, the higher flowing version is around 360L per hour. Personally I feel the the Walbro 460L is the better option, and half the price.

Needs to be linked in the Stagea and V sections.

They do, but it's a much more modern digital unit I suspect.

They are definitely Xspurt 1000's. It's stamped 1000 on the side with heat which Xspurts had before the laser etching machine.

3 inch will flow 600kw, sounds like you are going overkill to me... LAG for days...

Correct in most cases, unless the resistance changes. Running a pump at 8v will burn the brushes out, the motor is designed to run at 12+v, not 8v with load. I have removed many for that reason.

That is similar to what I use, but that kit only goes to 19mm, mine does to 21mm.

Only Hwy miles.

Pretty common for the integrated stereo to take out the aircon. You need to source a dual din facia off a base model wreck, then you can find yourself a decent stereo. There are aftermarket Metra kits available, but they are shitty compared to a stock dual din facia. There is plenty of info in the V35 section above, and the Stagea one also.

Xspurt 1000's by the looks. Score.

There is a bit of a lag penalty rear mounting, not an issue on larger engines, but the little 2.5...

The 341 would have been $400 over the counter. Go to Jaycar, buy a relay, some wire and a fuse and run it to the battery. It need to be done, the Walbro's and most other aftermarket pumps require 12V minimum or the brushes will burn out. (The less the voltage, the more current is required to spin the pump.) Your fuel temp will be fine with a 255L Walbro, it's when you go to a surge tank that it really becomes a problem.

I took up the challenge of removing the GTX and putting a highflow back in, that's the smart option. Anything larger isn't going to work well without spending the big bucks, auto rebuild, high stall converter, 3.5 inch exhaust, there is no way a 4 inch intake is ever going to work... I'm quite happy with 300+ on ethanol, it's the guys running 98 that will be limited by their crappy fuel.