scotty nm35

I always wanted to carbon wrap my roof, or matt black plastidip. It's a huge canvas to play with as you found out.

Compared to similar turbo's Stao tests it seems way down on power for the 20odd psi its running. Although the torque was skyrocketing at 4500... We were worried one injector was flowing less causing lean knock in that cylinder, the other cylinders running only a little rich would easily compensate, and the wo2 would read 12:1 at the tailpipe. I have seen it happen so often with e85 I am setting up an injector test jig for myself. Short of a wo2 sensor in each runner, it's the only way to be sure they are flowing well.

I think it was around 8 or 10 degrees at MBT and still knocking on the ears. I think he mentioned it should take another 8 or 10 usually on e85. The runs were aborted due to concerns with the ID1000's mainly, they have since been flow tested and found to be fine. Sorry Tony, I just can't think of any other reasons it won't take more timing, I just hope the machinist didn't skim too much off the head, or it wasn't already machined previously. Perhaps a lower boost actuator might be a good idea for now, so at least you can get the tune sorted.

Too late, he has already dropped a boat anchor into it... Aaron, why didn't you get him a supercharged 8 from work?

VR=VQ with exhaust gas recirculation. You can stroke any VQ out to 4.5L now.

It's certainly a weird one, everything has been replaced or checked. It could be a good idea to check the VCT actuation as Zebra mentioned...

New Walbro 460L e85 pump, hardwired to constant battery voltage through a relay. AFR's were fine...

The exhaust was dropped on the dyno with no power gain.

A VQ would have been the better transplant Moh...

PM'd.

The waterless coolant I have now doesn't actually build pressure.Should be interesting to be able to pop the cap when it's at 140 degrees. The problem is the all alloy block, there is no thermal mass to absorb heat like with cast iron, the alloy just transfers the heat to the oil/water. At least I shouldn't have head gasket issues as the block and head should expand at a similar rate.

The rods usually make some large vents in the block.

Plenty of VQ35's blow at much less, some last though. Perhaps the difference between a tune, and a good tune... Just remember when talking US power figures, ours are often much lower.

No idea, the manifolds could be similar, but I know the turbo's are different...

Yes, they are VQ25det manifolds, I have a set here if you need them. Understand that HKS used a T2 version of the 3037 with a very restrictive cast adapter, it was the only let down of the kit as I saw it.

Sorry Josh, I can't help unless the car is here, Hampton Park Vic. Thanks Alvin. Give me a PM if you need a quote ausdrift, I generally only work with stainless/alloy though.

Agreed, I always use OEM Nissan T3 gaskets. Having so much weight hanging off a very hot manifold isn't a great idea, worse when there is no flex join in the front pipe, and the factory hanger at the box is missing...

No need for a pod mate, you will only go backwards. simply cut a few holes on the side of the airbox if you think the snorkel is restricting flow. I have seen nearly 500kw through a cotton panel element. Braided hoses won't help much, they are only rated to 200 degrees anyway. Bring it around again sometime and we can try and run new rubber hoses over the top of the engine. Or when we do the oil cooler perhaps. Moh, you are the bitch.

You need to give a price to abide by the forum rules, and not get hundreds of lowball offers.

They do run quite hot compared to older cars, over 100 degrees is normal this time of year.

Seeing you are interstate, perhaps Nissan might be your best bet (It pains me to say.) but they charge crazy prices, especially for imports.

Can you swap the battery in the car? Check the terminals for corrosion or cracking, and check the main fuse also. Has it been raining there lately? Surely the RACQ guy would have checked these things though... instead of dumping your car in your drive. If the battery checks out fine, you may have a faulty crank sensor, probably worth jacking the car up and checking the plug and wires going to it, just in case they are damaged.

Have you removed the exhaust gas recirculation pipe?

Aannd? There should be another hose... Or does it have a silly breather filter on top? Empty catch cans don't do anything from my experience.

Sounds like your temp gauge isn't working perhaps. Is the radiator hose hot top and bottom? Sometimes you can have an airlock which will stop water flowing, and keep the thermostat closed.