scotty nm35

Did you clean out the piping before you fitted it? Is the catch can baffled or stuffed with stainless steel wool?

I think you will find that the 60mm length is your issue, not the material the studs are made of. I assume you have two gaskets and a 20-30mm spacer? What gaskets are you running?

Ahhh, all engines recirculate a little oil, which is why people run catch cans, instead of letting it all drain back into the intake.

It is most obviously connected to something, namely the air conditioner drain tray.

Don't buy that turbo, or any second hand turbo for that matter. If you are tight arseing on the the turbo you had better stop what you are planning now, as it will easily cost twice what you are thinking anyway, and the turbo selection is the most critical part. RB swap. lol. You have a better base for power in your car at the moment, without modifying your car completely. Best engine to swap in would be the VQ25det (or VQ30det), or simply build your engine if you plan more than 250kw. Cutting and welding cast manifolds will end in tears, perhaps a custom steampipe set of manifolds would be better? But your budget doesn't allow for that...

Probably, but which thread I wouldn't know. Have a google search for Skylinesaustralia re5 and it should come up. What is it you would like to know, most of the work on the box was custom, and my transmission specialist probably doesn't want me giving away too much online. PM me if you like.

No worries Tom. You can't see dry solder joints, it is just a hairline crack around the connection, from vibration.

It's the same everywhere in Australia unfortunately. My suggestion is for you to buy a sports bike, and no more farks will be given. The centre line becomes another lane, just for you.

^ This. Damn Evo isn't on the road yet...

Why would servicing costs blow out? The sump plug is easy to get to. There is more room in a 300zx bay than a late model Stagea, that's for sure.

It's efficiency will change depending on duty time, and ambient temperature. I would say it would support 500+kw of flow, as long as there is enough air passing through it to keep it cool. Stock GTR intercoolers flow 500kw, so this one being slightly thicker and better quality core should be fine. You might as well go with a 120mm core if you plan to upgrade.

You can replicate anything given enough time. What exactly does he think can't be tested with regards to an injector? I have heard of a few issues with five-o's lately, it would be the obvious next step to test the injector imo, unless it did the same thing on the old injectors?

Its in PDF format, how would I go about that? There are a few pages of diagrams...

I think he wants us to measure it. Take a picture beside a ruler and we will do our best. Should work out close enough...

I don't think you are mad, in fact I think you may have a better result with 91. Octane isn't the only reason to chose a fuel... Especially when you have large volumes of slow burning ethanol in the mix. That low grade crap may just have more energy potential to help with the economy you are looking for. Twin injector per runner setups are looking more and more interesting to me. Stock fuel tank for petrol, 40L poly tank for adding ethanol on boost. Best of both worlds.

You would have exactly the same issue with a manual box, as the stock clutch wouldn't hold much either. Considering I have two twin plate clutches here worth $2500 each, and they aren't anything special, make sure you add that to the cost of the manual conversion to get it to hold similar power. All you had to do was put a shift kit in and it would have lasted...

How much fuel is in the tank? It may be surging on acceleration.

I don't think anyone would be crazy enough to mess with a chemical engineer Alvin.

Change them when the head gasket lets go.

Just a broken stud? I thought the manifold was cracked from the second pic...

All Jap systems use metric tube. It can be almost impossible to find over here, we use imperial for some reason...

SN rated oil is what you want to look for. And drop it regularly. You may want to put an oil thermostat inline if you are running an external oil cooler, just to keep the oil temp up enough to evaporate any ethanol out of it.

Because the AFM was still outputting a signal, and the ecu though it was fine. They don't all blow in the same way, some fail and you need to unplug them to drive, others you can drive home without unplugging. Most throw the MIL though. Contact me if you have any dramas, the replacement Nissan AFM's are crap and don't last long. Hopefully the one you got is from somewhere else.

How did you check the filter, the element isn't able to be seen. More likely you checked the pre filter sock correct? I would say you have blown an AFM, is the engine light up on the dash?

It's something I was interested to make for myself, sounds way too complicated to make multiples of though. I would love to get a second oil cooler in there... Not like you need 40L of washer fluid anyway.