scotty nm35

That's not how it works from what I have read, the neo head has a completely different combustion shape and will bump the compression sky high apparently. The engine seems strong, and the torque graph was shooting skyward at an insane rate when I left, hopefully it's sorted soon before he burns the car.

I have a spare 460L here if you need it, and a screwdriver.

I can help with some V35 parts.

I was a little worried it might have RB25 pistons, not RB25neo, but he tells me he ordered them from CP himself directly. Still, it seems to be the most likely cause to me, if all else fails. The compression test came up 175 across the board which seems normal, but no.3 plug was definitely a different color, looked a little oily. If it was just high compression the ethanol would have helped more I would have thought. Something is definitely up with it, knocking at 10 degrees isn't normal, unless you are turbocharging a KIA.

Not yet Stao, the engine is still not taking timing, working through the list of culprits but Trent suspects an injector might be blocked partially. Everything else has been checked it seems.

You could plumb it under the engine in the cold air, but how would you get it to the throttle? Interested to see your ideas.

If you plan to use VQ30 manifolds, you will need to stick the turbo down in the stock position, under the left bank. Not sure a $400 Holset will be up to the task, or even fit. The manifold adapter/T3 flange will be the main issue, unless you simply highflow a stock VQ25det or VQ30det turbo. Expect a lot of swearing.

What did it cost out of interest?

Isn't everyone over east? Stao only uses one casting of .82 internal gate housing for skylines as far as I know, I have asked him for an external housing a few times but it would obviously blow the cost out, as he is tooled up to cnc the internal. I can weld a gate to the housing easily as I have a jig and know where the gate will clear. You would need to organise your own screamer/plumb back pipe locally. I have to jig up a stock manifold for a suitable gate position still, so I can't really make one until I have an rb25 on the hoist, and a spare manifold. I was hoping to get over to Stao's to check his out, but he is the other side of the city, and we are both too busy atm. Hopefully I could sell it as a kit eventually with the gate and screamer pipe, but is there much of a demand for this setup? I would need to set up a cash back on return system for the old stock manifolds. Welding off the housing would be best for shipping purposes obviously, and there are so many cheap options out there for housings now, like the stainless Vband Tial copies I use on my car, which make turbo/exhaust swaps so easy compared to the 6 bolt Nissan.

Here is the direct injection intake assembly that creates swirl in the chamber, it essentially shuts off one intake valve at high vacuum. (idle/cruise) You can see how cleaning or preferably removal of this assembly would benefit power production. It's the first thing I would be doing if I had a dd in service. Followed by a turbo.

I don't think the one I have has the 30dd, only the 25dd, which is essentially the same other than piston size. PM me if you like.

Great to hear, the Mishimoto radiators are a pain to fit. So the thermos went back on fine? Good price too.

Nice fix, hopefully that's what's wrong with the rear sunroof in the Axis wreck.

Glad to help Graham.

Should have left it in Melbourne, close to Trent.

You have a water heated shift knob? Niiice.

I agree, if trimming 3 inches off a 1 inch pipe is difficult, you had better leave the car stock.

That was with an Emanage Ultimate with MAP sensor over the stock ecu. It's all in the maps, no switching involved.

Making them on the bench and guaranteeing fitment is the hard part, as you well know, especially hard with BOV and Breather lines to line up from another state. I would be glad when someone picks up the fabrication for (stock airbox) intakes as there isn't much call for them, but I don't want to ditch you skyline guys and stop producing them.

The hassle is bolting it up to the stock airbox mainly. If you have a pod it can sit wherever so it is a lot easier to get away with an intake like theirs. Personally I would be sticking the stock airbox back in with a good cotton element and the factory snorkel, but it sounds like you want induction noise, not power correct? My 80mm alloy intake will require around 3 inches to be trimmed off the BOV/Breather lines, as they would finish up inside the intake otherwise.

You making them too Mick? Get a picture up for the guys.

I would say there is air in your heater pipes, have you tried to bleed the cooling system?

Not to mention the bov return is mounted in the wrong spot, and would cause reversion across the afm hotwire. My intake is about as close as you could get to bolt in, and you will still need to modify the bov/breather hardpipes.

So it hasn't even run what you assume it will make? The trans is holding fine in my car, perhaps yours wasn't built well enough, is it slipping? NOS? Only if you get two of the big ones...

My headlights are perfect, with oem burners. Are you sure you have HID's? They are supposed to be converted to halogen for compliance, and that would definitely make them dull, and the spread would be shitefull. I have a spare set of headlamps here if you need them, but if both are switching off at the same time, you might want to change the relay box first.