scotty nm35

That would be dry weight too I think. Mine was nearly 1800kg at the Phillip Island weighbridge, stripped for the track.

For an ethanol only car? How hard do you plan to push it? Track only or road going?

They don't give power gains from my experience, and modding the engine without first maintaining it properly is a little backwards imo. You will gain more power changing to a synthetic oil than the spacer can ever give. Stick the stock air panel back in firstly, or at least a cotton element as you have already taken a backwards step. You might want to clean your AFM element too, now you have most probably sprayed a fine mist of K+N oil onto the hotwire... Ztube does absolutely nothing, other than make the intake louder. It is just a bit of pipe, were you expecting gains from it?

I think you need to see a local fabricator and see if he can tuck it up a little more. That's what you get for $600 unfortunately. Where are you located? One of the Sydney guys might be able to help.

Best to speak to Stao (hypergear), he can machine you up a housing to suit, and check out the core for you to see how serviceable it is.

Map atm, but I have tuned with both before, AFM to 2psi them Map. It worked very well. The auto gearbox needs the afm signal for line pressure adjustment...

In some ways, yes, in others, no. I run a map sensor just in case a cooler pipe pops off, my car will keep driving. This becomes more of an issue the higher boost you go. AFM's are better at metering small changes in air velocity, and can be easier to tune for some. They will let you know if there is an intake leak by ruining the tune and running rich. Why not run both? I do.

1ZZ-fbe is the engine you want. VQ coils have built in ignitor also. If these plug straight in, it's a no brainer. The only time I have had misfire is when the mixture was under 10:1 on ethanol and it wouldn't ignite well due to the plugs being wet.

Not sure, but why would you bother? Best thing to do is rip off all the plenum parts, and the lower runners, and clean the whole lot thoroughly as there will be a LOT of built up carbon down the runners. You will need to make a scraper to clean the head ports out. Doing this will give you all your top end back. You will go through a lot of carb cleaner so buy a box... You might want some oven cleaner/gasket stripper to help remove the built up gunk. Deleting the vac operated swirl valve before the head might increase power a little at the expense of a little cruise economy. Deleting EGR would help keep the lot clean so you don't have to do all this work again, again at the expense of cruise economy.

There is so much more information around on VQ25det's now, compared to when I got the Stagea 6 years ago, mainly due to my own r+d. I have the workshop manual, and have translated the ecu pinout diagram, so the plug pinouts are easy to check. Other than that they should drop in using the lower insulator of the rb coil, perhaps with a cable tie or similar around the upper section.

Where's me moneyz kent?

Anything with a steel bar in the bolster will hurt more than a soft padded one, I would have thought the GTR seats were better? I run the Euro 2 Brides and find them very comfortable.

+1, good bead and standard hose clamps here, I have run over 3 bar through silicone joins that way. Just don't re-use too often, or over tighten the clamps.

I fitted a VQ coil to the Neo 25 today, the loom plugs straight in (not sure the pins are the same yet.) and the lower section can be swapped to some extent, although the 34 lower insulator is larger where it joins to the coil. No big deal fitting them I suspect. A bracket wouldn't be too hard by the looks of it either.

I assume the ones on the doors? Should just be DS taped.

Not on the M35 I am fairly sure. The speed data goes down the CAN line, so there is no chance of modifying the data until inside the cluster.

Not aimed at you Callan, Pete was duped into buying the crap bov and left it venting, then thought everyone should be doing it. He should have kept the stock one there, infact Nissan should have welded them in place imo. My point was made today, as I sat behind an evo8 that flooded itself at the lights. As I was waiting for him to start it, I wondered if I would hear the all too familiar ssq noise, and I wasn't disappointed. Modding your car for street cred and ruining it's drivability... I just don't get it.

I can't see why not, might need a little modification. I can test one out on the 34 here if you like, and see how it fits... You may need to adjust the dwell from RB specs, not sure what mine is running though.

About 140 degrees is enough to spew coolant out the overflow reservoir as I found out. Not much you can do to raise the boiling temp over that while using water in the system. I would assume the coolant is flash boiling around the bore at much lower temp than that...

Seriously, you cheaped out and bought a non genuine Greddy bov, then had to mod the crap out of it to fit. Why the hell didn't you just buy the bolt on Turbosmart Kompact plumb back for $170 and be done? Even grub screwing the bleed hole in the stock BOV would be smarter imo. Plumb that sucker back or you will stall constantly, potentially causing an accident, not to mention the fouled spark plugs and black rear bar.

I can't remember offhand, but I think either would work perfectly well. I believe the internal hose size was 15mm or so on my kit.

It seems to work very well, so I am hesitant to change it too much, but you could run it however you liked. On my setup the heater runs through horizontal as stock, the block fitting in the bottom, and the ball valve out the top. ( I noticed the pics weren't showing on the old thread) The expansion tank is a great addition but it needs to be mounted higher than the bleed point and radiator overflow, which makes it very hard in our cars, there just isn't much room for it. (I have one here I wanted to fit but couldn't find a suitable place) If you were planning to track the Stagea, especially at twice the stock power you would be mad not to do this mod, the alloy block and head design transfers too much heat out of the combustion chamber causing flash boiling so you would need to either run the expansion tank to self bleed the steam, or run waterless coolant like I have decided to fill with. (I bought Evans waterless coolant, 200c boiling point.)

M35's are notorious for the speedo reading high, I run 235/45/18's and they still read 10k's over at 100. I hoped the Nismo cluster would be more accurate, but it wasn't. The ecu is reading the correct speed according to my informeter, but the speedo is still out, so I just use the informeter for accurate speed measuring.

I used to run the Emanage Ultimate, with the Greddy map sensor. I still had to keep the AFM in place as the auto needs to see that voltage for the line pressure adjustment. Clamping the voltage too early may have been the reason for my initial gearbox meltdown on the dyno. Since changing to the Fcon we have been able to ramp in a lot more timing, as it is a standalone system. (The timing is set, not wandering like with the EMU setup over the stock ecu.) Also there is adjustment for line pressure in the fcon, plus it doesn't back the throttle off during gear changes. Much better power to the ground, but you may need to build the auto to take that sort of abuse for long. I make my own cooling mod, quite a few of the Australian guys have installed it with great success. It is very similar to the pathfinder mod, without the stupid twin thermostat arrangement. (there is no need for more than one thermostat in the system, and it just creates another place for air to be trapped.) Here is the link to a few threads on it. I replaced the crappy plastic bleed assembly and used the heater line for coolant return, to assist in moving more coolant around the system. You may have noticed the M35 has a habit of overheating with around 1 cup of coolant missing, this kit allows the flow to continue even after losing a litre. (I know from experience) I have done plenty of track work and can attest to it working better than I ever expected, all air or steam is allowed to flow through to the radiator and out the overflow instead of getting trapped in the block/head. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/413471-m35-coolant-bypass-mod-install/?hl=+m35%20+coolant%20+mod http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/410876-m35-coolant-bypass-kit/?hl=+m35%20+coolant%20+mod

I might grab the cats, I would like to jig up some HFC's. What suburb are you in? I will grab the airbox if it has the power duct too.