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scotty nm35

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Everything posted by scotty nm35

  1. Oh, is that the brand. JDM yo. I need them on for now, just so I can move the car around, but you are welcome to buy Ironpaw's coilovers off his wreck if you like Matt. No damage, they looked to be in very good condition. I will have the car in place within a week hopefully, then they can come out. Let me know if you want pics.
  2. My GTX was installed on a 15 degree tilt, I had no issues other than space. You are welcome to try and fit the EFR in the stock location, but without going to external gate housings and without the bov etc. I doubt it will fit, no matter how you tilt it. Have you seen how little room there is to work with? It makes RB26 twins look easy. If you relocated the turbo to the airbox location it would work, but then you have issues getting a decent size exhaust through beside the engine. My 3 inch intake touches on both sides... Small low mount twins would work, as long as you ditch the AWD, you would need to change gearboxes anyway if chasing that kind of power.
  3. Stock pump? Seriously, it's a wire, a fuse and a relay, and there are multiple threads with pictures showing how to rewire a pump for 14v. It's not rocket science. The only other pump that might work is the Nismo/Tomei pumps, but I wouldn't rely on the stock wiring for that kind of flow personally.
  4. I'm sure it varies, the tighter the tolerance the better it will work, but too tight and it may rub once the bearing tolerance gets loose. I would say .4mm would be ballpark. Hopefully someone with BB turbo machining experience pops up as I suspect you can go with less clearance with a BB core.
  5. Your dash is going to end up looking like mine.
  6. I usually only see it on the stock tune Matt, right as you back off from boost to a cruise.
  7. I have one new aftermarket window motor here, these are probably your best choice as most of the drivers window motors are flogged by this stage. I have done the same a few times, cleaning the commutator and bending the brushes in will keep it going a few more weeks/months.
  8. The only Violet with a white line wire I can see is the engine revs to Hicas ecu wire. Can you take a pic of the back of the plug? Edit, I just noticed it looks like the correct wire at the top, but the one you pointed to is not actually connected to the switch? or is it just the pic. Looks pink/white. Never mind, I must be tired.
  9. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436771-brake-cut-off-mod-how-to-guide/page-1 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397960-m35-stagea-brake-cut-off-mod/page-1
  10. As in, I am fairly certain you have the wrong wire, can you link the thread you got that one from?
  11. What have you done wiring wise? They only draw 10 amps max, but they need good voltage at all times. Sounds like it's still running through the fpcm.
  12. Most decent injectors come with dead times, but they are only a guide anyway. I'm sure you could work it out pretty quickly with modern EV14's, just set up the lag and volt settings first then tune it normally once the idle and throttle response feels good.
  13. Good, so you don't need much of a voltage input to emulate the AFM output to the stock ecu. Is there nothing the EMU won't do? Haha. The original part number AFM's are still going in some cases, it's only the new part number Nissan sell that fails regularly. If I could find a stash of original AFM's they would be snapped up in no time. Until then the Chinese ones will have to do, unless you replace it with something else and tune for the differences. Ditching the AFM and running a MAP/IAT tune with AFM emulation like Matt just managed... Well that's even better.
  14. Cmon Aleks, do it. I will supply the TCU.
  15. Violet? The wire you need to cut is definitely pink.
  16. Depends which turbine wheel it has, Tao is using near GT35 sized wheels in the SS2 these days so I would expect it to flow well.
  17. You can buy strap on bike carriers too, no need for a towbar unless you want to carry 3 or 4 bikes.
  18. Yep, and the cover inside the door latch, you need to unclip the two plastic clips near the hinge, pull towards yourself, then slide the trim upwards. See if there is a G35 clip on youtube, that will help.
  19. Relay I suspect, if you have checked the fuses. Do you have the wiring diagram? Follow the circuit back to the relay and swap it out.
  20. Sounds like the pump motor is shorting out if it's blowing fuses. Not sure but I think all the Attessa pressure packs are similar, even the later M35 Stagea ones I have here.
  21. Roof racks are great, until you forget the bike is up there and drive under a branch.
  22. It will likely be the brushes in the window motor, I have had to change a few lately.
  23. That would be the valve body, which you have already upgraded to some extent. To handle more torque you need to increase the amount of clutch plates in the clutch packs by using thinner drive plates, not just bump the pressures up.
  24. There are plenty of parts for the RE5, locally and overseas. It's big bucks to build a box though, I have done it twice now. Most important is good quality synthetic fluid and a large cooler.
  25. Grab a set of knock ears and have a go, what do you have to lose other than an RB20. Every tuner started somewhere, and there is only one way to learn the effects of too much timing. I prefer less timing and all the boost personally, but as Trent said, every engine and modified part reacts differently, and good fuel is critical.
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