scotty nm35

What happens if you drop the boost?

I picked up the last one from the Dandenong branch, apparently there are only 3 left in Adelaide you could get at the special price, last day is the 13th, tomorrow.

So do hardened steel bolts. Stainless is usually fine in high temp situations, as long as the thread is large enough to handle the load, and you use zinc based anti-seize during assembly. I always use stainless studs and copper coated nuts on Stagea dump pipes, but they are M10. That said, most rear chra housing bolts are hardened mild steel, probably as they handle turbine explosions better.

The smaller flanges would increase the exhaust velocity, improving spool slightly. Not like you need them ported for that power range either.

I would be interested Craig, can you supply one?

I have two here, one crack free, one repaired. Where are you Matt?

Want to buy my 350z box and Nismo twin plate coppermix clutch now Toby? I will get around to it eventually, one day when I am bored. Still searching for manual V35 interior parts... I am contemplating just using the 350z console and adapting the handbrake to work. Not sure what it would look like though.

It really depends on the grade and quality of stainless, and how good the holesaw is. It's a good way to damage your arm if it isn't in a drill press, as the kick on a holesaw when it grabs with a hand drill is harsh. I have new drill bits here that just polish the stainless, due to the stainless being harder than the drill bit. Cobalt drill sets are definitely worth the coin.

I have had them hitting under the floor too, I would say their jig was bent at various times and they just kept pumping them out. I guess for the price you can't complain.

I use 4PK0950 and 6PK1180 Dayco Poly rib belts.

3 times what I spent on the 350z box though. To fit the R34 gtr box you would either need the floor pan modified extensively and a new gearbox support made, or the transfer case would need to be spaced out 200mm or so off the back of the box. Add that to the adapter required for RB to VQ, and buying a new twin plate Nismo clutch... I just can't afford it.

The stock oil line will be fine, and you don't need to prime the turbo. The sump will definitely have bits of turbo in it, they all do after the turbine fails. If you are dropping it you will need to check the banjo bolts have been drilled to 2.5mm for bush core turbo replacements, all three banjo bolts.

Actually, the higher the boost you run, the less the wastegate needs to flow, generally. I would get the external gate, but it depends on what the police are like up your way. I run the same turbo on e85 putting 350kw to the wheels through an awd auto.

You got a spare one laying around you don't want?

No, it doesn't sound right, as the VQ doesn't have lifters. Sounds like your mechanic used the wrong grade of oil. Where are you located Glenn?

It has taken Cihan 40 or 50 tunes to work out how to setup the EMU properly. This isn't a Nistuned RB we are talking about. There have only been 10 or 12 VQ25det's tuned in Aus so far.

So much this. ^^ Still cheaper than a Willal tune.

He will be driving over to Melbourne Dunc.

The exhaust temp can run very hot on e85, I have seen 700c+ on cruise. Always handy having a pre turbine temp gauge, it stops the tuner blaming high exhaust temps for not leaning on the boost some more.

You know you need to...

I don't think it's possible with the DD, you have much the same ecu as the M35 Stagea. There was a guy (Baz?) selling an aftermarket ecu for the DD, it was a few months ago but I think he still has it. Look down the threads a while and see if you can find it. (Could have been in the Stagea parts section.) Otherwise you might be able to run an emanage ultimate? If you are chasing more power, you bought the wrong engine. Perhaps start by cleaning the intake for more performance?

Hopefully it doesn't cost you too much dyno time to set them up, it can take a while to work out suitable lag times etc with unusual injectors, and you are paying good coin for every minute it's on the dyno. Unless you have the lag time report with them? Might be worth trying to source one.

Walbro 460L. The Bosch pumps are old designs, and noisy as buggery. Still great for external setups, but internal it's hard to go past the new Walbro e85 pump for $200.

Japan use the metric system, as do most other countries. I seem to remember 65mm, but not sure. Why don't you have a search around...