scotty nm35

I use the bandsaw if I can, otherwise the little dual cut saw makes short work of alloy sheet.

You could buy flat sheet from Airport Metals or similar, and get it rolled, but tube from the US is the go, unless you need long lengths.

Common, it builds up over time and circulates your fuel system, building up in the injector filter eventually. (Which is deep inside the injector on the ev14's.) For some reason my fuel system has been fine for years, but I have replaced 3 sets of ID's for customers due to this black crap recently. I have a feeling it is from the carbon filtering of the ethanol during production. It does look a lot like carbon silt.

I think you are correct James, it's the larger disks you will need. Best to ring GSL rallysport, they know their brakes backwards. I have a decent cat back here atm... How loud are you wanting though?

Washable stainless filters are not fine enough, the dreaded black gunk seems fine enough to get through them and clog the injectors. I was recommended to install 10 micron paper elements to guarantee it would catch the black crap present in e85. (I assume from the manufacture of the fuel.) Moran refuse to warrant their injectors without a similar filter fitted in the fuel line... E85 is a great cleaning solution and should flush any varnish buildup through, but this can block the filter internal to the injector, which in the EV14's is nearly impossible to clean.

You already have a halogen low beam, as the fog light, it is the low beam element inside the high beam bulb.

No worries Toby, and your missus is welcome here anytime.

Sounds like the mech left one of the battery terminals loose.

6766 is a 950hp turbo, I don't think the 1300's would make it. I would go the EV14 2200's (at high pressure) and run a 10 micron inline paper fuel filter. I have seen too many block up recently.

What ecu, stock with a reflash? Are you sure it was the correct image for your model? Have you mucked around with the throttle position sensor? Perhaps is was just coincidence, but I doubt it.

The GTRS is a great turbo, and designed specifically as a bolt on skyline kit, but it is three times the price of an equivalent Hypergear swap. Even an externally gated Garrett and custom fabricated exhaust/intake would probably cost less.

What sized injectors are you after? I can help with Xspurt's, 550cc - 2200cc and just about any other injector available... Look through here and find what you want, I can get much better prices than listed. http://www.injectorsonline.com/ PM me if you are interested.

The line is blocked by the banjo bolt into the block usually. They have a .9mm restrictor built in don't they? The VQ does anyway, it actually runs 3 restrictors due to high oil pressure.

Second hand dual din (base model) facia, buy modern local dual din stereo with whatever functions you want, profit? There are a few alarms around with remote start capability, I could point you in the direction of a business to help out, but I have no idea if you are local.

The proper (Turbosmart style) ball valves actually work in a similar way as the electronic controller, and they do a great job of holding boost pressure off the actuator until the desired boost is reached. I still prefer an electronic controller for the simple fact they have an overboost warning, and the ability to run a 4 or 5 port MAC valve. Looks good Toby.

Totally agree Leon, I have driven so many cars and have yet to find one that rides and turns as well as the Stagea. (although I have spent a bit to get it there...) I just can't suggest a better car, let alone for the money. If only it came in manual...

It would need intake manifold pressure, not piping pressure. Plumb it in after the throttle.

That was what he wanted Owen, but I told him it is instant defect, and there is no way to get decent pipes through past the motor, unless you want to ditch aircon etc. A lot of thought and design work went into it before we decided on this setup, believe me. Yep, I fitted a scavenge pump off the drain and fed the oil from the engine oil pressure switch. The only issue was, being a gt35, it needed two restrictors to lower the oil pressure, and stop blowing oil out the turbo seals. The water was fed from the engine too, to the turbo and gate. The water lines needed to be large as otherwise not much water would flow. It was just easier than running dedicated rear mount water and oil setups with separate pumps and coolers. Looking back I probably should have gone with an oil cooled ceramic bearing Precision turbo.

No idea what the temp coming out of the cooler is, perhaps I should swap the hoses around next track day. I am about to flush the coolant with Evans and see how that goes, waterless coolants have always intrigued me so I finally put some money down for it, to stop the common VQ flash boiling issue around the bore. Hopefully this will help keep coolant temps more stable. Any reason I can't run 150 degree coolant and oil on track do you think? As long at the coolant won't boil and the good synthetic oil won't lose it's properties... I can't see an issue with it. We both saw the Perth 32 gtst dyno graph with a stock VQ30det/to4z didn't we? (first page of the dyno thread) It went for a year at 24psi before lifting the head, at 430kw. All it needed was the gasket replaced and ARP head studs.

With an engine light up? I don't think it's wise. Plus you will lose many powerz in the midrange. It is just the cam retarders, are they making noise? If so, can you pinpoint which one is doing it? Nissan can test and re-tune the cams using Consult3 or 3+, the cams drift around all over the place constantly from my experience, but once they hone in on a degree setting (using the PWM signal to the magnet) they hold it very well. They are self learning to a degree. Something as simple as the wrong grade of oil could cause these cam issues I suspect, do you know what oil is in it?

Grinding cast iron makes a hell of a mess. Enjoy.

Not a bad list, the sump just needs a fitting alloy tigged to it, copy the VQ25 design perhaps. Braided oil feed from a T piece at the oil pressure switch. If you have a decent (Walbro 460) high pressure capable pump you could get a lot more out of the stock injectors, well over the power OP was asking for. Might need a return line added and external reg. You could simply bolt a stagea front on, that way the intercooler piping is taken care of... Definitely catch can and colder plugs. Cooling will definitely need to be sorted, these VQ's flash boil coolant in the bore at stock power.

Any mod has risk attached to it, and no engine is safe from a bad tune, whether it be the tuner's fault, or more likely something drifted... Fuel delivery, timing drift, dodgy wiring, bad batches of fuel, any time you take an engine beyond what the manufacturer intended you gamble, that's why it's so addictive isn't it? Ethanol won't magically save you if you push the car to the edge, (although my engine should have melted years ago) but at least you will never foul plugs, and no carbon build-up anywhere.

That's very impressive, I love the Axis aero look.

It might be. lol. HKS thought they were good enough to use. E85 will most certainly help the rods, but it is quite complex to explain my theory here. Let me just say, if you can stop the chance of detonation or pre ignition you will have a much better chance of keeping the block intact. Like we would listen to your opinions anyway, sticking a turbo on for a week doesn't make you a guru mate.