scotty nm35

You go the other way, drain the 98, fill on United e90 then add the petrol to bring it back. Just remember, the most 91 you would have in the tank is 30% due to Caltex fuel having that content, you would be watering it down with 98 if you filled at the servo... The tuner will need to tune the fuel map fat for protection but I doubt it would ever ping, unless you leaned on it past the engine's sweet point. (like most of us have. lol.) Still much safer than a petrol tune, bad batches of 98 were common for me in the early days. The Martini supposedly has more in it, but only the 116 octane drum. I asked a few tuners and they scoffed, saying there is no way, but who knows untill you do back to back tests. The workshop I heard the results from were selling the drums, so who knows. It made 40kw more on their race Evo apparently.

There is no set amount of power it will go bang at, it all comes down to the tuner and fuel at the end of the day. If you were able to fill on e85 for example you could probably push 500hp all day without issue, but there are no guarentees in this game. As for the list, a few things you don't need, like the pan spacer, A/C line, bigger injectors, fuel pump or ecu. Your stock fuel system may get you close to what you are after, but I could supply a 255 for $100 so it's a no brainer. You will need a lot of awsome fab work though, not something Midas could knock up for you. It is quite tight in there. I have a HKS 350z single turbo manifold here if you need one.

Not much warmer in there than it was stock on a warm day, it gets good ventilation, I was going to cut more vents and perhaps get a small fan or two but there was no need. The carpet barely gets warm due to the heat shield I made, and all the wrapping/beanie. The turbo doesn't get very hot anyway as it's 4M from the engine, even on the dyno...

5w40 would be a good choice for you, as in winter is gets a lot colder than it ever would here in Australia.

Not ARX, I have an Axis coming soon though... PM Jase (prince skyline) as he has an ARX wreck with some parts left on it...

Price?

Yep, street cars. Mine is no 2 ton race car. lol. I think all modern street cars run Iridium or Platinum these days for the cleaner burn and longer servicing times. How many people would seriously want to change plugs more often than oil? Most of the servicing I carry out, the cars have done 10-15,000 between oil changes.

The point I already made was... Iridiums are simply better. They handle high heat conditions much longer than copper, and you don't need to change them out every 5000. For just double the price they would pay themselves off many times over. Now you need to mention that bullshit about coppers making more power....

Ahhh ok.... My engine has been pushing 30-40 psi on ethanol for 4+ years now, daily, Should I check the pistons again? They looked fine when I changed the head gasket last. My block is alloy too, with a sleeve bore, should I be worried much?

And keep it in your pants.

Alex is correct, the box is quite capable with just a shift kit and can handle a fair load of torque. If you step over the line though, the box is a 4k rebuild once you slip a clutch. I have rebuilt 2 boxes so far... I will be doing a manual conversion soon if I can find the manual V35 parts...

You have used aluminium plugs? You know the price of 8-10 heatrange racing plugs? Around $40 a plug last I checked, and they needed to be specially ordered in. My NGK LFR7 Iridiums are handling everything i can throw at them, the last set of Denso iridium IKH22 7's melted in just 5000k's.

I have heard good things about this Martini, I would be interested to see back to back runs comparing outputs. It sounds like you need to get both fuels on the dyno to check the tunes out on either fuel anyway.

I do all my own spanner work, no-one is touching this VQ but me. As I was measuring the temp into the cooler, inside the 12an lines, I figured the thermostat was wide open. I should check it's operation again just to make sure, but it holds 82 degrees pretty constantly on the road. I think the oil is just picking up the heat from the pistons and transferring it away. To lower the piston temp I should just run less boost at the track I guess, but where's the fun in that... It's a great feeling blasting past GTR's at 40psi.

So does that make the oil better? I would have thought the oil which is hotter is doing a better job of removing heat from the piston crown, which is a good thing. I agree though, if you are dropping your oil every 300k's it wouldn't really matter what quality oil you run, other than Magnatech? Are you kidding me? It has the worst name ever for sludge creation doesn't it? So many people have warned me away... I would be too scared to try it.

I guess they figure no truck driver or motorcyclist would ever be seen in one of their cars anyway.

So is GW Synx3000 but it's quite good if you drop it regularly. Full synthetics like the heat more though, and will last longer, but who cares if you drop it every track day... Only reason I am running Penrite racing 10w40 now is after speaking to the penrite rep, he showed me oil analysis results between the various oils in their range, from actual race meets, and the racing synthetic is perfect for high track temps, the film strength remains for much longer in track conditions. High Zinc levels, SN rated for e85, and It's a reasonably priced oil too.

Last set of Iridiums I got from the US were $10 a plug each, delivered, and VQ engine LFR's are much less common. When you are melting copper plugs from running massive cylinder pressure and high heat you may appreciate the Iridiums a little more. Coppers are for stock cars running rich shitty tunes imo, as they are cheaper to change when they foul. That's why tuners recommend them I think. I guess every engine design would be different too, my VQ has much better plug cooling than the RB, as the thread is twice as long.

Do you discount for reach-arounds?

VQ35's can blow at stock levels, you need to let us know your definition of safety. Sticking a turbo on and doubling the power will never be an exercise in long term reliability... probably 250-300kw if you have a VERY good tuner, and nothing drifts. The VQ25det turbo setup is good, although the small turbo will choke the 3.5L. There are no 'bolt on' turbo's for the VQ25det manifold, although HKS made an adapter to use a T2 3037 on their 350z single turbo kit, using the same manifolds. The fab work is easy enough for a competent fabricator, I managed to make my GTX3076 fit ok, but it was like putting a ship in a bottle with large pliers.

You should easily see a 30kw gain with ethanol.

Sounds to me like one of your afm's has a dry solder joint. There is a 'how to' on fixing it around somewhere if you have a search around. Unless you can borrow someone's afm's for a minute or two?

Yeh Owen, 280kw at around 12psi I think, running United e85. Lag is non existent with the .82 rear GT35. Quite a different car to drive now. lol. The carpet is back in the boot, engine bay is stock. Very stealth.

If you drop the pan and dump the fluid you will change around half of it. You may need to do that a few times to get rid of most of it, or just power flush it like Alex mentioned. If they won't do it, just do it yourself. You can use Nissan matic J or some of us are using the Nulon synthetic trans fluid which works well, and is a Matic J replacement. (Penrite do a semi synth which is Matic J compatible too, but I haven't used it yet on one of my customers RE5's.) They are a little thicker than the dextron3, not sure if that is why it works better...

If they follow the workshop manual, which I would assume they are bound to, they will need to drop the whole front off the engine, which needs to be done out of the car.