scotty nm35

No need for bong schmoke, you can easily hear the leaks with compressed air. Soapy water would work well too sprayed around the joins.

I have seen over 400kw through a 3 inch intake too, infact the 430kw 33 had a Z32 afm... No point going bigger than the AFM unless you ditch it and go MAP sensor. Just looking at the graph, it seems you are missing a chunk of boost in the midrange, did you get a boost plot by chance?

So they are already converted to Halogen? What are they complaining about then?

3 inch pipe, cut up the sides and hand work to suit the flange, then weld in little triangles to cover the hole. Unless you want to run 4 inch? Edit: Here is one of my first custom dumps (3.5 inch) I did for a GT35 on an Aristo, it may give you some ideas. My welding has improved in the last 4 years.

They are cheap, and nasty, but with a bit of die grinding, and re-machining of the flanges perhaps(they are only linished by the looks of it) they can be a good option for guys on a budget. I had to modify the wastegate path on one I had here, as it was going to hit the dump, but it all bolted up fine. Messy mig weld on the inside of the merge was a bit...

I saw 430kw through the stock exhaust and intake manifolds the other day, I doubt that is the restriction. Did you drop the exhaust anyway?

Beautiful looking turbo, Why can't Garrett make Vband compressor housings... Have fun with the fabrication. Take your time to smooth out the flow path, I want to see best possible results out of this one.

Internal gate is the issue, the gate hole can't flow enough and most of the exhaust goes down the nozzle through the turbo as it's easier. Winding too much preload into the actuator can cause this issue too. It isn't a good way to raise boost as it limits the actuator's travel. Split dumps can also limit wastegate flow. You may be able to die grind the path into the wastegate, and remove any restrictions to flow to improve the situation but that just makes more airflow which causes it to max out again. External is the only answer.

There is a good chance the remote start could void your insurance, it is certainly non ADR compliant over here, it should have been disconnected as part of compliance. The car obviously doesn't have an ADR immobiliser fitted either. Not sure how you could get a replacement unit but imo you are better off getting an aftermarket modern alarm, with autostart feature if you want it.

Make sure you keep the setup, and just change the bulbs over so you can change back to OEM. Halogen lamps are not designed for our reflectors and throw a crap light pattern. How dare they force you to ruin such a well designed part of the car.

It is exactly the same as an M35 tank, I assumed it was, unless the C34 one is identical... Perhaps the OP can let us know if he returns? Hopefully he can get the snapped off pipe out of the line too. Replacement fuel rails would be a lot harder to ship.

It's a big gate, hopefully you don't have any issues. If you do, just weld it up.

You will need a compressor with a fairly large air reciever if you have any leaks worth repairing. 20psi should be fine.

Without the code it is near on impossible to guess what is wrong with the trans. You have the 2004 model M35 that wasn't allowed into Australia? Are you NZ? I don't think there are many differences, just checking...

They are not flat roller bearings, they are large ball bearings, split so two single races. I do agree though, they won't last long if the shaft is out, or has been pressed/hammered.

You have an M35 wreck Danny?

6 Boost? I hope the wastegate exit off the manifold is welded on the correct angle, Kyle won't entertain the thought his manifolds are badly designed, so won't fix the simple design flaw. You should be right though, as the boost spiking is the tuner's fault apparently.

If the wire between the dbw and ecu had a poor resistance you would know about it, as the ecu would go into limp mode (as it does with any throttle fault.) Jumping around guessing what it might be isn't going to do anything other than make this thread longer. If you had some means of checking the wideband sensors and found they were lean at that point, you could argue one or more injectors were blocked. But without a reader it makes diagnosis very hard, adding the internet to that makes it near impossible.

No leaks at 90psi, yer right...

Yep, it's stuffed. You will need the top part of the assembly at least. Get a quote for the complete assembly from Nissan, you will quickly see you should have been more careful trying to remove the fuel line... Hopefully someone else has a spare for you off a wreck, if not I may be able to send you just the top part from my spare assembly.

If it is intermittent there is a good chance one or both of the AFM's needs re-soldering, there is a 'how to' around on fixing them if you do a search. It could be an injector too, would be a good idea to get them cleaned and flow tested just to rule them out.

Looks like you can get Chinese ones for around $100, at a guess they are parallel imports from the Chinese supplier Hitachi use. Have you tried the re-learn again? I could get it to do the rev drop to 650 but it would never set. The next time I started the car it would idle high again. Is that what yours is doing Josh?

It's fairly straight forward, other than it's in the tank. Only attempt it with a low fuel level. If you plan to do it, make sure you have the Stagea filter PN: 16400-4M405 as the V35/350z one is different. Also replace the tank Oring pn: 17342-01A00 And it would be a good idea to replace the filter outlet Oring PN: 17049-4M400 as they usually leak causing low fuel pressure. Make sure when you do the 6 screws back up you take it easy, they are extremely soft and easily strip.

I have had to install two 0.9mm restrictors to some Garretts just to stop the oil pumping out of the seals, you can tell as the oil is unburnt in the dump. If it is burning it, it is most likely internal, but check the intake for oil first, it could be the compressor seal or just leftover oil from the last turbo failure... T04e is a pretty big turbo, I hope you haven't done the ring lands from booting it without tuning first. It will also be more responsive once it's tuned properly.

I might... I have a spare aero bar with the plastic ducts I was planning to swap over to driving lights, but I don't have the black light surround anyway. PM me an offer if you like.